What sr20 tuning uprades to choose?

Hey,

Got a s13 Blacktop coming with t28 on it, sooooo I’ve been doing a lot of reading about engine management, but needed to get a clear picture.

From what I understand, I need to get fuel/ air management, not standalone, and wideband o2 sensor. What else is needed to keep air/fuel in check so I don’t blow up my engine. What about turbo timer, and boost controller?

So much crap to know…don’t want to make a mistake. I think a trip to the tuner is in order as soon as the engine is installed and running from the sounds of it. Will the factory ecu be sufficient to protect the engine til I get it to the tuner?

Advice will be much appreciated, and any links that you can share would also be appreciated.

The stock ECU will run the T28 just fine. For a simple build like this I would recommend a chipped ECU from RS Enthalpy or JWT. It is the most cost effective option. You could get a Power FC or Standalone, such as Haltech or AEM, but those are much more expensive ($700-2000) and will require dyno tuning ($600+) The only downside of a chip tune is you have to stay MAF and lack of advanced features. ( Power FC doesnt have any features anyways, simply a programmable ECU, unlike standalones)

I would recommend buying a wideband, this way you can moniter A/F ratios and look out for lean conditions that could blow your motor. It will also show any boost leaks as the AFR will go rich.

You dont need a turbo timer, modern water cooled turbos have greatly reduced the possibility of oil coking. If you run the car really hard, just say coming off the track, let it idle for a minute or two and just shut it down.

As for boost control, i would recommend an HKS actuator this will increase boost pressure from 7 to 12psi without the spikes associated with manual controllers. You could also consider an electronic controller as these help control boost spikes but are rather expensive. If you end up going with Power FC or standalone, boost can be controlled electonically through those computers with the use of a solenoid.

Like Derass says…

chip it, if its always going to be a normal street car and in this power level.

Otherwise get a powerfc or standalone. Powerfc is cheaper, but has less features. But from experience 90% of guys that get standalone don’t even use those features ne way.

turbo timer is pointless.

Actutaor is better then manual boost controller, electronic controllers are $$$, used ones rarely have all the plugs and sensors, new they are $. Don’t need one if you don’t plan on moving boost around and setting up different tunes for different boost settings. Which can only be done with a apexifc or standalone neway.

just got the engine into my garage…and now the fun begins!

What do you guys think about the piggyback air/fuel controllers, which are designed to work off the stock ecu?

Piggy backs are great if you plan to buy another engine soon.

Do it right, get a replacement ECU not some mickey mouse man in the middle controller.

Dustin

picked up the fmic, and sr rad and fans, downpipe and 3" catback with dual 4" exhaust tips from bing, and just ordered a hks ssqv 4 bov and 3 mount pipe, now turning my attention to boost controllers and air fuel management. Anybody care to namedrop any brands I should be looking at? am I wasting my money by not just going for a standalone that does these things right in the begining?

Here’s a question: If I change the boost from 7 psi to 12, doesnt that f up the air/ fuel ratios, or can the stock ecu handle that and compensate? Can it read a wideband o2 sensor and adjust?

At some point I know I have to get larger injectors, walbro fuel pump, standalone ecu and a tune, but just working towards a mild boost at this point.

What is ideal a/f ratio? for sr20, 14:1 ?

^ No. You need a piggy back or it will lean out. Your stock ecu cannot do anything with the wideband singal it will only be for your own knowledge.

I ran a apexi safc for 3 years before going standalone. If you have the cash to go all out now you might as well but it’s a large investment to do it correctly. If you are looking for a mild boost on the stock turbo I would do the safc. a/f around high 14’s cruising then drop it into the high 11’s low 12’s when your full throttle. Get a walbro now though. the rest can wait.

UPDATE: Everything is installed, and the car is running great for months on stock boost with new GT2871R turbo, centerline exhaust manifold, new exhaust and apexi AVC-R, but now I want moar.

Next steps, I would appreciate your input:

-upgrade injectors, 550 or higher?, thinking 750
-standalone ecu-which one do the tuners like. haltech, apexi,etc…
-aftermarket intake manifold- is isis ok, or other
-cams- poncams, hks or other. I have arp studs and apexi hg currently. Not going overboard, but want a performance increase. Would prefer not to have to remove the head again to achieve this. Bolt on.

target is 300 plus hp, want the hp but not at a cost of reliability. Using premium gas and turbo settings, 15 pounds max. This is a daily driver.

For 300+ hp:

-550cc are good enough
-Standalone ECU…Go with either Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 or Apexi Power FC
-Save your money, not necessary
-Again, save your money, you don’t really need cams.
Make sure you have a good flowing exhaust (at least 3")

Spend the money you save on some good dyno tuning time. Expect to spend about $500 to get it all tuned.

Good Luck

^Thanks, good info. So cams not needed to hit 300 plus? I always thought that would be a for sure part to get there

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Stock head will easily make 300.