I want to redo my Water/Meth injection and change it from using the windshield washer reservoir to using the factory intercooler sprayer reservoir. I’m sure I won’t have too much of an issue mounting the pump / components, but I want to run SS Braided lines so I never have to worry about them rusting (will probably be running them under the car along a “frame” rail.
Any good places to by lengths of braided line and the fittings?
Summit Racing. I’d personally use Aeroquip socketless. Easy to work with and methanol compatible.
Please take into consideration the time to build the proper pressure in a long run of line vs. a short one. I don’t feel like thinking about it right now, but some adjustments/tuning might have to be made.
lines
http://www.votionspeed.com/servlet/the-Braided-Steel-Oil-Lines/Categories
fittings
http://www.votionspeed.com/servlet/the-Anodized-Oil-Fittings/s/1/Categories
Yes, I thought of that as well. But if the system is fully sealer then won’t there be constant “pressure” once the initial air pocket is removed (taking into consideration I don’t run it dry). And would i be better off mounting the pump in the back so it pushes, or in the front so that it pulls? I’m thinking it will have less of a pressure issue if the pump is closer to the injection point.
Either way, I have the Aquamist DD3S flow system so I immediately know if I lose flow.
You’ll want the pump in the back. I’m sure there is a way to tune around any problems that might come up.
shako in latham
Was just about to say this.
There will still be a small amount of lag from the pump being commanded on to “full” pressure at the injector.
This. They carry -3 and -4 braided teflon line in stock for hydraulic systems(Ie braided clutch and brake flex lines). Also have the appropriate fittings to go from line to female AN.
+1 for shako. Always have what we’ve needed and if not they get it right away. Very helpful if you want some last minute advice also.
Shako is great for when you need something quick but they are stupid overpriced. Id buy online
sometimes those stainless lines can be a PITA. id rather measure what i need and draw it up, go to shako and have them make every piece for me to take back and install than order a 50ft roll and fittings and have to cut it up and what not.
not always but sometimes that shit sucks to work with.
I agree but thats why they can be overpriced, most of there business probably comes from people in a hurry for lines! It sucks but its smart on there part. At least its good quality not some half ass done lines.
+1 for Shako.
i heart shako as well. can’t beat local.
Shako’s aero quip line is the same as summit…my whole racecar is plumbed frOm Shako parts, not overpriced for being 200 feet from my front door. Now? Or wait three days for it to come from summit…
Another +1 for Shako, I’ve been there a bunch lately with all this diesel conversion BS. I’ve had awesome experiences with Scott there. Goes out of his way to help you. He did all of my powersteering lines for my hydroboost swap. Don’t be afraid to ask for him specifically, and let him know i referred you. I dunno if he’ll know me by name but he’ll prolly remember the diesel conversion madness. LOL
Yep. Omni/Shako is not overpriced at all given that you are getting Aeroquip parts and excellent service. I bring them work all the time and never once have had an issue and they go out of their way in most cases to suit what I need done.
Unless I need special fittings, it’s not even worth the time and effort to buy online and pay just as much with shipping and still have to wait for shit to come in before being able to continue with the job.
Well I need some opinions now. I have 2 options for what I want to do since I also now need to relocate my coolant overflow.
Option 1:
Stick to keeping the methanol in the trunk (factory IC Sprayer tank) and run the braided lines to the front. I will need a re-tune anyways for the FMIC so it can all be re-tuned at the same time. Also, I believe I can adjust my methanol injection system so that it comes on at a slightly lower MAF voltage which will allow it to kick in a little sooner and take away any time delay from the added distance (not 100% sure on that though). Then build an aluminum or stainless dual reservoir that will replace the factory windshield washer reservoir.
Option 2:
Build an aluminum or stainless (need to research which will be better for the methanol and not cause any reactions) triple reservoir to replace the factory windshield washer reseervoir that will hold the methanol, coolant overflow, and washer fluids. If I go this route, I will set up the new reservoir so that the back chamber will be twice the size of the front 2 which will hold the methanol (should end up holding just slightly less than what the current reservoir holds… which isn’t that big of a deal since I keep a bottle of pre-mixed methanol in the trunk in case I ever run low). This way will make sure that there are no issues with pressure drop over a long run since it distance will not be changing. The only difference is that I will have to relocate the methanol pump so that I can make the new reservoir as large as possible.
I’m almost leaning more towards the triple reservoir idea… but what do you guys think. The reservoir will only cost me the material (aluminum or stainless), a few new fittings, and a few bucks to one of our welders here at work who will weld it up solid for me. They weld on our process piping daily which holds thousands of pounds of pressure… so I’m sure they can weld me up a little reservoir… lol. And regardless of whether I go with the dual or triple reservoir, I am still going to have to make it anyways. And each chamber will be pressure tested to ensure that there are no leaks or cross contamination between the fluids.
Opinions?
Go to mooradian hydraulics in schodack he is doing all kinds of stainless lines now and coated colors… Hes doin black braided lines for my bike