you mean owned by woman :kekegay:
true, but here is how i look at the whole ordeal.
if u can build a motor, then u better be able to tune it. if u cant build the motor, or tune it properly, then atleast have the person who is going to tune the motor have some say so in the engine build.
if your runnign efi, you pick a system that you can control (or who ever is going to tune it for you). you dont have some old wrench who loves carbs tuen an efi system, and i would hope that soemoen who specializes in efi setups is wise enough to stay away from carbs. like i have stuck w/ sds, or holley because it is fairly easy, and i have help if i need it from people w/ experience. i dont need sequential inectyion or 8 outpoints. i was happy w/ hand held programmer and NO outputs. now im splurging to laptop and 4 outpoints!!! woo hoo go me! but the reason for the switch is based soley on the fact that i need the outputs to control more shit that i had no use for last tiem my car ran.
just because soemone says “kinsler, or whatever efi company” is better you shoudl get that does not mean it is good for you. because advancd systems like autronic, motec, fast, or even aem are alot more involved than peopel think.
as for shops blowing up motors, yeah it will happen. but look at it this way-- owner drops off car and says make peak hp. they do so, and car lasts a week. owner gets pissed off because shit blows up. hey, ur the one tuning for hp.
peopel need to realize you cant have both peak #'s and relaibilty w/o sacrifice of one of the two. if your gunnign for peak, expect to break.
last thing that irks me is just picking motor setups. why is it that every fucking domestic guy i talk to allways brags about how big their injectors are? seriously, over 50% of the efi v8’s i know have way too big of an injector. Too much carb mentality of “bigger is better”. best thing is that most of th etime the shit is on factory or chipped ecus, which emans they ahve no real controlover any of it.
but then lets get to carbs… again, almost all carb guys i know think “bigger is better”. so there they are w/ a 1300 cfm carb on a 408 wondering wtf is going on b/c the car is laoding up w/ fuel. you can only adjust fuel pressure, or jet sizes so much. pick the fucking carb that will work, not one that you hope will work because then you can brag how big your 4 barrel is!
man, i can go on forever.
owned
There must be another ASAP out there because I have no idea what 03 Cobra you’re speaking of. We don’t even like our customer’s vehicles getting dirty let alone taking them on beat runs. As far as the tune is concerned, there are safe limits and dangerous limits. We NEVER push to the dangerous limits unless the owner is willing to sign a release due to liability issues. There is no comparison between loaded dynos like ours and unloaded dynos like Dynojet - that’s like comparing apples to oranges. The load tables in the ECU are completely different between the two.
also, i’d like to retract this statement. and edit it to no one blows up “customers” cars on dynos.
as i will be trying to blow up sonnys motor on the dyno. 
you might not remember the car but a few ppl on this board known of the car. i heard this from the owner of the car. yes this is hear say but from my understanding this owner is a good source
We’ve only blown up two cars on our dyno and neither was our fault. One was a Dodge Spirit R/T with a ton of miles and a shakey bottom end to start with. No surprise that it let go shortly after a dyno session (a few miles down the road). The guy that owned it looked at it as an opportunity to do something better under the hood with a fresh engine.
The other car was a high strung RX-7 turbo that was tweaked to make maximum HP numbers. When a vacuum hose came off during a tuning run the car instantly went lean and it went boom. The owner/tuner accepted the consequences as part of the game of playing with cars.
I don’t know about other shops but we almost always have the vehicle owners present when we dyno a car. More often then not the owner is the person in the car “driving” it on the dyno (unless they don’t want to do it) while we operate the dyno from outside. We NEVER drive a customer car on the street if it is left at our shop for dyno work. That’s not a responsibilty that we want and quite honestly most of the cars that we’ve dynoed are racecars with no plates, insurance or inspections so driving on the street is not an option anyway. Besides, with a the right kind of dyno (like we have-not like a typical Dynojet) you can load the car exactly like it is on the pavement so why would you want to drive a car on the street when you can completely simulate the driving experience (minus traffic, stop signs and the police) on the rollers?
there are 200k mile hondas running just as much boost with no issue. keep it under 300whp and make sure the motor is strong and there is no issue
There is alot of confusion on nitrous systems and the fundamentals or science of how it works. When nitrous is heated by either bottle warmers or exhaust systems, the nitrous starts to convert from liquid to gas. For example: 900 psi bottle pressure heated will flow less liquid nitrous than 700 psi bottle cold. Those are facts that can be confirmed by the manufacturers. Speed shops, like mine, have to do the job to the properly the first time because we cannot afford to blow up a motor. Just like the nitrous companies fuel jetting will purposely make the air/fuel mixtures richer than needed to protect their asses. Every stock jetted nitrous system I have ran across so far - have been excessively too rich causing a loss in horsepower. I could sit here for an hour going into depth about nitrous systems but I don’t think that anybody is in the mood for a science lesson. There are alot of GREAT articles out there pertaining to nitrous systems.
I’m guessing this is directed at me?
This isn’t what you guys told me when I had my car in, you said that my nitrous line was close enough to the exhaust that you were afraid the rubber inner line was going to burn/melt.
Either way, when I checked it out at home, I found that the nitrous line hadn’t moved from where I had initially run it, which was right along the factory fuel line path. As I said, the nitrous line is and was no closer to my exhaust than the fuel lines are, and I doubt the exhaust heats any of these lines to any noticeable extent. If it were, it would probably also be heating the fuel line, which we both know is not a good thing.
As I said earlier, I’m not commenting negatively on the quality of work your shop does. The price of the alignment was fair as was the price for mounting the drag radials, and your turnaroud was quick. I’m just relaying my experience with your business.
As far as:
For example: 900 psi bottle pressure heated will flow less liquid nitrous than 700 psi bottle cold. Those are facts that can be confirmed by the manufacturers.
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I can’t really comment on this as I don’t have a bottle heater. My Zex kit’s NMU reads the bottle pressure and adjusts fuel pressure accordingly, leaning out as nitrous pressure drops. This in effective eliminates the need for a bottle warmer, though I’ve heard that in colder temperatures a bottle warmer does help. I have read that a bottle warmer does help in most cases, and has been proven to do so both at the track and on the dyno. As I said, I don’t have firsthand knowledge of this as I haven’t run one.
ZEX Tech told us that there system sprays NOS over the fuel port causing it to pull fuel from the jet making self adjusting to nos pressure . I think the box is clean install . BUT I still like the old NOS system . Maybe that is just me . Please talk to other people about there bottle heaters , I do not think they work as good as the others .
i heard today that a from a guy i work with, his buddy took his white 99-04 mustang GT to them to have a “chip” installed. When he went to a dealership a month later for problems they told him there was never a “chip” installed. So the kid payed like $700 for nothing?
Any Mustang 99 on up can use a chip or reflash the PCM . I know I do more reflash on pcm any more . It is funny you asked that . Because I had somebody call about a car we looked at 2 years ago for a stalling problem or something like that . I think they put on a C&L meter and tube when the problem began . They were asking where the chip goes on the computor and he had a friend at a dealer that was going to be working on the car . I just told him what to look for . I remember we tried a couple of things ,but the more I think about that car . I don’t think we did anything to the computor . If this is the same person . Have him call me again and I will pull the file to see what we did . Back then chips where only 265.00 plus labor .
ThanksI find it funny you place race gas in all the imports because your afraid of blowing their shit up. or how you wouldnt allow a certain rotory to run on your rollers and told him you didnt want a rotory ever on your dyno.
I think that would actually be quite reasonable. Fact is that no matter what the cause, if shit blows up on a shops dyno it rarely is anything but bad advertising for the shop so to speak. People who actually get dirty and wrench on their cars understand that parts fail and engines can blow. On the other hand, people who just pay to have everything done without really knowing shit just get pissed cause so and so blew up their car. A very large percentage of import owners (as well as domestics) just hand over the money and know nothing of how things work, only thing is the imports typically are stressing their set-ups more as 300+ hp out of a 2 liter takes a lot more to get than 300+ out of 4.6 liter and larger set-ups. Although tuning to a fuel that the car is not going to be driven on is pointless. And as for rotaries, they are pretty much a timebomb waiting to happen, defintely not worth the potential risk to most tuning shops for the small percentage of them running around. Just my $.02
I have to disagree with the rotary comments. We’ve hosted several RX-7 club dyno days in the past and have never had a problem. The owners are very knowledgable and supportive of each other and I look forward to them scheduling appointments. The only rotary that did blow up was the personal car of one of the former owners of a rotary specialist shop in Washington and he knew that he was seriously pushing the envelope. We own a Mazda Cosmo and can honestly say that we enjoy playing with rotaries.
While we’re at it I will admit that there is a large percentage of people that pay to have their imports built up to make big HP (it’s the same with American iron) but when places like Hybridynamics are close by I wouldn’t build my own car up either. The shop that I work at (can’t say because we’re not a sponsor here) specializes in imports and sport compacts and we have a good reputation with local owners because that’s what all of us that work here own and race (SCCA and NASA). It also doesn’t hurt that the owner has written four performance books that deal with these kind of cars (Hondas/Acuras, RX-7s and Neons).
It makes me wonder why some shops turn down import/sport compact cars for dyno appointments or why they do accept appointments from their owners but then laugh at them (to the customers face) and unfairly compare them to American muscle car type dyno numbers. Do they have that much business that they can piss off an entire group of cars/owners? The dyno doesn’t care what’s strapped down, it just spits out numbers regardless of what company built the car. If only dyno operators could be so impartial.
THIS IS THE FIRST I ever heard of that . I know I had a guy working for me that hated working on imports . My be he has been saying stuff for he didn’t have to work on them . HE is GONE !!! I have done some RX7 turbos & tuning and sponsored a Mazda road race car . So YES IMPORTS ARE WELCOME. Race fuel is only used were needed , like high boost levels and or large nos shots .
yeah… i heard about the 350z that you guys charged… it produced decent numbers?
im just stating things i have heard