Which brake pad is the best?

come back, tickle-men :frowning:

All the pads in all of the calipers SSBC make are all based off production pads. They are all very common SFI backing plate numbers which can be cross referenced to most pasd manufacuters. I know this because i solid modelled alot of pads when i was there.

OK, Yall. I canā€™t be on the inter-web all dayumn dayā€¦ I am on lunch now, so I will post some stuff in about 15 minutesā€¦

Are you from the dirty souf or something?

Tee Hee, Actually Yes, I amā€¦

OK, I will try to cover as much of this as I canā€¦

Ceramic Pads - Good for daily driver cars because of the reduced noise and brake dust. They wonā€™t hold up to a track day with heavy braking, and possibly even AutoX. Ceramic pads should usually only be kept to daily driver cars, ie, non-performance cars where you are not as concerned about stopping on a dime. Very easy on rotors.

Semi-metallic pads are the ones we use the most, and are standard with all of our brake kits. They provide good feedback and progressive bite, and can stand an occasional AutoX, but not a full fledged track day with periods of long, heavy braking. A good, all around street pad. They can occasionally make noises though, the common slow creep up to a light and get the squeel from the pads.

As for the EBC pads, you should end yourself if you are using them. EBC made a move, and changed their green stuff compound without telling anyone, and made a huge mistake. The pads would deposit material on the rotors, and make small (about quarter sized) spots ont eh rotor that when you were under braking felt like a cheap $0.25 vibrating hotel bed. We had TONS of people calling and complaining, and ended up dropping the entire EBC line of pads from our kits.

As for the Hawkā€™s, I canā€™t say enough. Jeesus, they make the pads for everything from 747ā€™s to busses to trucks to cars to the new F22 Raptor. Hawk really knows their stuff, and we are slowly making them them our brake pad of choice. Now, instead or reiterating what is all on Hawks web site, you should just go there and read it. In a nut shell, we use their HPSā€™s as the base pads in our kits, and the HP+'s for the guy that wants to maximize the performance. Now, be aware of the conā€™s about the HP+'s. Read Hawkā€™s website! There is a lot of good information there!

As for recommendations from what I know, and from working with Hawk, for a daily driver I would use plain semi-metallics. It is a good overall compound to use for a car that only sees street use, very little to no AutoX, but want a good compound bad when you need to do a hard stop.

If you are looking for a good street pad, with occasional AutoX, and want to have an over all 8/10 grade pad, get the Hawk HPS. Be aware, you will get the squeel on occasion comming to a light stop. You can minimize this using the high temp copper never-sieze on the back of the pads.

If you are looking to maximize performance, no more, no less, go with the HP+. They are an aggressive compound for the street, but will reward you with amazing braking power.

For the street guy, on a budget that canā€™t swing the cash for a full big brake kit, I would do Stainless Lines, a Fresh Caliper Rebuild, New Rotors & Hardware, and a set of Hawk HPS pads. That is about as best as you are going to get without changing the physical components of your brakes.

This might help, I run Hawk HPS in the Evo and am using it as my daily driver, Weekend AutoX, and whatever else. If you can deal with the occasional squeel, go with the HPS.

Working with Hawk and their people, I will say that they really have their business down. They have helped us with our kits, and really improve our image using them. We like them, and will continue using them in the future.

had hawk pads on the front of the mustang and they worked awesome :tup: unfortunitly they worked a little too well and I got rearended (didnt do any damage though lol)

Iā€™m surprised about the comment about ceramics and not stopping. I just put a set of the Morse ones on my Expedition and they seem to be working great. A couple test stops from 80 and they have more than enough grip to get the ABS going, and thatā€™s on a real heavy truck. So far the rims have stayed clean, which is way more than I can say for the stock pads. I would have to wash them at least twice a week to keep them looking decent.

if you want good truck breaks, i am using http://www.hawkperformance.com/truck/superduty.php with brembo blanks in my truck. owrk better than anything i had, i even had ebc greenstuff and ebc dimpled rotors before. Seriously morse does not compair to hawks in any way, and i could care less about a bit of brake dust, i would rather have to clean a rim than clean a civic out of my grill

A lot of people are suprised about the ceramics. Ceramics are only really good for one thing, and thatā€™s keeping your wheels cleaner than ordinary pads. A lot of OEMā€™s use ceramics because they are quiet, and good for daily drivers. Those that are looking for better performance do anything but ceramics. Besides, most brake systems on carā€™s these days even with shit pads are at least adequate to stop the car regardless of what pads are on it. There are MUCH better pads out there than ceramics, but it also all depends on what you are doing/pannning to do with the car. Just donā€™t forget that aspect of the equation.

i donā€™t think i could get my ceramic morseā€™s to lock up if my life depended on it

thanks for breaking it down man :slight_smile: EXCELLENT read, might wanna sticky this thread. brake pad 101 :tup: