i agree with what "drifter says about listen to your instructor. and Slicks arent neccisary for a track day. Its not a race but a learning experience in the limits of your car. at least this year the 90 has a big patch of pavement to run off on. if you skip your breaking point. and feel free to compare different techniques from different instructors. At the traquest event i attended there was one instructor that i kicked to the curb after two laps. because he was screwing up what the previous guy had told me. the difference between a porshe guy and a quatto guy. find someone with FWd race experience. and youll be all set. temps should be cool to help with inadequate domestic brakes.
If i didnt break my tranny i would have liked to attend. and maby give you another run with the wrx… climbing the mountain out of the boot is a bit more fun than roll racing on the 400
i agree to be selective about your instructor. I had a great instructor, kept the same one throughout the whole session. very knowledgable, helped me with my driving a lot
my dad wasn’t so lucky, and didn’t get nearly as much out of it as I did.
get some ate superblue or some equivalent with a higher boiling point in there and check your pads. and someone already mentioned it, dont use the ebrake when u get off the track just put it in gear
Better fluid and more agressive pads puts a bigger toll on your rotors, tires, etc.
I’m not saying it is a bad thing but, just be aware of that.
Again if you are a beginner on the track you might want to concentrate more on your lines through the turns and your smoothness.
This will make you A LOT faster than guys that brake hard and drive like shit.
If your brakes burn up it does not mean you are fast.
Save the hard threshold braking for future events.
BTW, anybody who wants some truly expert advice about race driving needs to read “Going Faster! Mastering the Art of Race Driving” by the Skip Barber Racing School.
Got credentials? Skip Barber, Robbie Buhl, Jeremy Dale, Terry Earwood, Bryan Herta, David Loring, Jim Pace, Dorsey Schroeder, Danny Sullivan and Brian Till all give pointers on what is important, starting with the fundamentals and getting pretty advanced by the end.
Well got back today. Had a blast! Was one of the coolest things I have ever done and will definately be doing this again on a more regular basis.
A few things I learned:
I need practice, bad. Going into this I thought I had some skills… lol. I am teh suck! lots of room for improvement, but my instructor was fairly impressed for being a first timer.
The SHO handles and sticks better than I ever would have thought at speed. I have squeeled my Goodyears all day on the street, but once they warm up on the track, they are awesome tires. :tup: to the goodyears!! Only one time did I even get close to getting them sliding, with a just barely a hint of under-steer in turn 9.
My clutch blows. Yeah it grabs… too good. I have replaced 3 motor mount bolts since late laast season and I blew another. WTF! I need to find a cure for this bad. I just fixed one Wednesday now I need to replace another. DAMN IT!
Tauruses are heaaavy and need ALOT of brakes. My 11.6" Fronts weren’t able to disipate the heat that the PBR’s we able to put into them well enough and I cooked my brake fluid 2x and needed to come off a lap or 2 before the session was up. Also the FP CM pads were cooke dnad left my rotors all looking like someone spooged on them. Next year I’ll be rolling on a set of 17" wheels so I can squeeze some 13" under there and will move the 11.6"s to the rear.
all in all, AWESOME!
BTW, ran down a Viper from ~ 1/2 a lap back, he was a rookie too. I got close to him, got all excited (aka. too agressive) and couldn’t close and further. I started pusing too hard and began making mistakes.
If any of you doods think you Hot shizzle, got on a track with poeple who Do know what they’re doing and you’ll see how good u really are. :lol:
you know I have my doubts about the PBR calapers when I get my tranny back in I want to compare my brakes to yours, you have more clamping force on your calapers but I have almost 2X the contact area with less clamping area and i’m kind of wondering which disapates heat better it might be a interesting comparison.
the 92 stock calapers were smaller than the 94’s right?
I bet you never thought brakes could get that hot ehh? I know you just had to toutch those front wheels after that session didn’t you I htink next year i’m going to try the 12.2" upgrade rather than the 13" just because I love the stock rims so much.
They grab good, pedal feel couldn’t be better. No issues with having enough stoping power with them even on the track except when they get hot. The Rotors are too small to disipate the heat from the clamping force of the calipers and the insuing friction. I think th reason that the pad contact is so much smaller than the stock SHO brake calipers is just for that reason. The force applied and in essence the TQ transmitted to the rotor is consistant with single pot calipers with larger (taller) pads. I can see why they were designed for 13" rotors now. I’ll be selling my fog lights and installing a set of cooling ducts, but that still won’t be nearly enough. 13" eradispeeds are next.
i’ve been looking into getting these for my z, so i’ve been reading up on them. everyone seems to be pretty darn happy with the setup. In fact one guy who has them on his track and his street car said he’s never even had fading issues on the track with them.
but they all use 2 piece 13" rotors, and everyone has brake ducts.
I use to think I was a good driver and then I ran and still thought I did good then I watched other peoples videos and still thought I was decent then I watched my videos and then realized that I was barly following a race line with the execption of a few laps… so much to learn so little rubber on my tires
so the goodyears did pretty good then hu? i’ve never herd any track feed back on those before thats interesting. even the one with the repair did fine just like I said (I think that was you wasn’t it?)