Bumping this because I need a roof this year… any more recommendations/first hand experiences?
David’s home exteriors.
j.p.Heim
Sounds like everybody’s given their suggestions for companies. As far as points of interest, you want to make sure whoever you hire provides the following with their job: full tearoff to bare sheathing with a report of the sheathing’s condition, (2) courses (6’) of ice and water shield from bottom edges of all roofs tucked behind gutters to protect bottom edge of sheathing, ridge vent system to aid in roof cooling during the summer (and winter), and quality architectural shingles with good reviews on companies warranty coverage in the event of problems or failure.
As far as a company, make sure they have the proper insurance (general liabilty and workers comp.) because they can sue your homeowners if they get hurt at your house without insurance. Cheapest price is not always the best. Shingle costs, materials, disposal, labor prices do not vary too much. Ask for references, if people were happy with their work they will be happy to tell others. Go with whoever you feel most comfortable with based on their answers to your questions, their references, and your gut feeling. Your roof is the most important component of your home. Let me know if you have any other questions.
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What do you know about roofs window boy, unless it’s got skylights?
F that noise. Have fun tearing off. Seriously.
How many layers? Spot a dumspter! Warning you now.
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Plywood under the shingles may need to be replaced as well depending upon condition.
Ice shield is not a requirement, but is a good investment. Behind the gutter? The gutter is on the step flashing of the sophit system unless you have a yankee gutter system.
Ridge vents are a good measure, but again not a requirement if you have the correct amount of “box” vents or something equivalent. There are a certain amount of vents required per square foot of roofing.
Architectural shingles are a nice touch, but not required. A standard 3 tab shingle will do and save some cash. Go with a brand that offers a 30 year warranty. If you are planning on staying there and it’s a nice home and you want to add value and have extra cash, go with an architectural. If not, a standard 3 tab will work. Now, if you are not planning on staying there, go with a 10 or 15 year 3 tab and call it a day.
Also, remember most shingle manufacturers will not warranty a contractor error or winds exceeding 50-60mph. So, there are lots of loop holes into the warranty of a shingle.
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Must have been a re-roof.
As far as “eaters” I have used both on the job. Anything that will get under the damn shingle and pry it up as whole as possible with nails will work. Either way, it’s back breaking work.
This thread is from 08
There where responses from this year prior to mine.
I would hope that reputable roofers would still be in business 3 years later…
I tore off 2 layers. did not have to rent a dumpster and was able to return my unused leftovers to the depot.
Disposal was ~$100. Ice shield IS required in Tonawanda. Whatever height gets you 3’ in on the 1st floor ceiling. Mine was two rows.
And you “need” to do peaks and valleys.
Roofing is not rocket surgery. Its just laborious. Experiance is handy when things do not go right…
Mine was pretty easy… BUT was a HUGE PITA for one person to do 
I still despise that shitty roof ripper I posted.
yeah, it definitely doesn’t look like rocket science.
My dad put a roof on the extension we built onto the house over 10 years ago. Never leaked a tiny bit.
Was the home a cape cod or something small? I find it hard to believe your tore off 2 layers of shingles and only spent $100 on waste removal.
Peaks are never rubbered…Valleys are depending on valley design of open or closed.
Ice and water shield is only required in some towns, but using it is money well spent. Get calls all the time for ice and water damage. One course is the minimum in most books, but depending on how shallow your roof pitch, two is what I recommend. I do two except in extreme cases. I had a customer with a fairly good pitch 5-6/12 and I happened to be there the day water starting pouring in her $ 100,000 newly completey kitchen project. Can almost guarantee she had one course of ice and water. Imagine if it had happened late at night. An ounce of prevention is worth a dump truck of cure. What’s the most expensive cause of damage for an insurance company? Water damage. We tuck behind the gutter because if you go to the roof edge only, there is still a non watertight channel between the metal fascia and the drip edge. When water backs up, it will find a way. If your doing a re-roof, tuck behind the gutter or even behind the metal fascia to protect the edge of the plywood. You’re looking for a watertight seal.
Ridge vents provide the greatest volume of ventillation at the highest point of the roof. Heat rises so you do the math. Some roof vent hats can leak if damaged because they’re plastic. Ridge vents are protected by the shingles. Get the most venting you possibly can. No such thing as too cold a roof, winter or summer.
Avoid three tabs, escpecially if you are doing the shingling yourself. Architecturals are thicker and easier to install, and last longer. Pick up a three tab and an architectural and you’ll see the difference. Look at three tab roofs gone bad and you’ll see. Waste factor on architecturals is almost zero, if done right. Manufacturer’s rate shingles with certain wind speeds, and most have gone to a lifetime prorated warranty. Warranty coverage depends on the manufacturer. Go to their websites and research. A basic wind speed rating is 130 mph, installed properly. Don’t do them in the late fall or winter. Temperatures will not be high enough to activate sealer.
Said before, roof is the most important part of the construction of your home. Even if you don’t stay, you can show the potential owner the quality of product and installation and that has value to someone who doesn’t want to blow a load of cash on a new roof two years after they move in. Most new homeowner’s are looking at kitchen cabinets, fancy baths, but don’t ever look at the roof. And don’t let anyone tell you roofing isn’t rocket science. If you don’t know what your doing, you could end up with a house full of pots and pans catching mistakes.
I have a relatively small cape.
I do not remember the squares required. It took two trips to the dump in a friends dumper truck.
I thought it was ~$50 or so for each trip but I could be wrong. I gave the guy a rounded amount for dropping it off for me. It is possible that it was $100 each trip after. I have selectively blocked out bits of it as I dislike manual labor almost as much as paying a premium for it. He took it to the place in buffalo if that helps…
I put ice shield over the peak, two rows on each edge and IIRC a row up the sides as well. Just like the pictures on the box. BUT… I should have gone with the better ice shield and not the granular shit. That stuff was annoying to work with and does not stick to itself nearly as well as I image the other type would.
I added a ridge vent, so I figure the ice shield is pretty useless at the peak, but whatever… More of it should not hurt.
Edit: the ice shield is the only thing the town cared about. I had to call them when it was up so they could inspect it. He never showed, and I never stopped to wait around…
If the OP or someone is doing a roof on a house they are not planning on staying, then why spend the extra money? It’s like saying I want ALL the top of the line accessories on my rental car for two days. Makes no sense to me. I work too hard to blow my $ foolishly.
I have done plenty of roofs in my time as roofing/general contracting/carpentry is actually the family trade. My father has been doing roofs for nearly 33 years now. I am sure that is longer than most have been alive on this board. I learned and used to shingle at a VERY young age. I was on my first double at the age of 4. I was roofing by 10 and doing almost every aspect needed by 18-20. I have seen and installed 3 tabs, rubber roll and architecturals…I’ve done walk-ables, capes, mansions, clay tile tear-offs, SUPER steep dormered houses…I have seen and done my own fair share. My opinions come from experience and listening to customers needs in the greater western new york area over the past 10-15 years. I recall hearing it all the time that people didn’t have the $ to spend an extra $2-5K and do all of the luxuries. They just want it done to the minimum to get by. I understand all that. Some are older folks, some are planning on moving, some are selling the house, some inherited the house and are selling it.
The real difference is that if you are in the long haul and are a believer of doing it once and going all out, then do it that way. Ice shield it up! Ridge vent it up! Architecturals all the way! I am in the long haul for my house. It will be paid of in 12 years. I need a new roof, which I plan on doing this year. So I will invest in all of the luxuries because I am saving on labor and I do not have to tear off either.
My statements (for the lack of better words) where to inform the less educated that they have options if they are on a budget. It’s not one size fits all.
Without picking too much more fly poop out of the pepper, don’t you tar your boots and vents? I do. They don’t leak as a result?
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You sound like a contractor sales man.
I just see situations where people say that they just put that roof on 10 years ago and it s already shot or they have water damage due to ice buildup and the single course of ice and water shield wasn t enough, now they have terrible damage. All I guess I m trying to say is don t cut corners on a roof. It s a lot of effort and money to make it right and water damage costs add up fast. I don t have a slate roof and copper gutters, but I didn t cut corners on my roof. Sales pitch complete.
If anyone here does roofing on the side please pm me. :tup:
I’m in need of some fairly basic construction and a bathroom gutting/rebuild. I’d like to help to keep costs down. Anyone interested PM please.
I will need to get a full tear off on the house before winter, not looking forward to seeing the price of this
I do roofs. Pm or call me and I can give you an estimate.
Thanks,
Alex
Please PM me with the location of the project. We may be able to help. Thanks.
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Oops, sorry. Disregard.