let me know on thoughts or opinions, and dont tell me to get a quaife, it wont fucking work
just bust out the welder and do it right lol i think turbociv used to run one on his all motor hatch. also why wont a quaife work for u
everyone ive talked to says they are worthless and create wayy too much wear on the differential itself when they do work, and some people say they just dont work at all. If your looking into drag racing, your better off getting coilovers and tweaking the suspension to gain traction advantages. There are tons of guys around running 10s open diff
then quit modifying your car… pay to play…
OK wait what car do you have and what are you trying to do with it lets get that out there first. Also power levels and what not.
never heard anything good about phantom grip…
also, welded diffs are sooo fukking stupid…
the only people who recommend welded diffs either have never driven one or are completely void of any decency… like they havent washed their clothes since MPD last washed his.
welded diff isnt worth the savings.
its a 96 neon i think ive been over this
2.1L 8.8:1 comp hahn racecraft stage V turbo system 750cc’s worth of injectors, walbro 255, indy 1mm oversize valves, crane top end, eagle bottom end, stock crank
suspension: knois n springs, strut bars, solid mounts, poly bushings, front and rear sway bar
stage III DSS axles, some sort of lsd unless an srt-4 trnas will bolt onto a first gen
cant remember the rest
weight reduction, w me in it the cars 2000 flat (est)
street tune of about 350whp, boost controller to a max of 490 (it can be pushed higher but id rather not gotta break her in first)
all thats left to build is the trans and paint the car
Dude, go quaife for the Neon. Doesn’t require shit for mods unless you’re auto. SRT trans is a nice swap but takes a lot of work (subframe isn’t compatible).
I wonder if drag bags will work with your car. That would defiantly help.
Hell, you don’t even really NEED an LSD anyway, but it’d be nice. Overfill the trans with ~.5-1qt extra fluid and your diff pin should be ok.
Phantom grip is kind of sketchy IMO.
yeah the .5 overflow thing ive heard of to keep the pin lubed, but i really would like sum sort of an lsd, i cant find anything on a .355 neon trans with a quaife in it still flying through forums as i type, i cant depend one one wheel to lay out serious power on a FWD car, half the guys with turbo neons pushing 400whp on the org are in the 14’s because all they do is light the tires a quarter mile down the track, gonna keep reading tho hopefully ill find sumthing
so let me get this straight… u put ALL that work into the engine… and now you want to skimp on one of the pieces that will allow you to put all that power to the ground?.. :gay:
that has got to be such a dumb idea its not even funny… should always start with the things that net the biggest return…
umm dude… OBX makes a diff for that car…
i know the honda guys like the obx difs
i know they do and there are sum fitment issues that arnt as bad as the quaife i just went through about 200 threads on them and they seem to be ok, but still no one is using a quaife on their 1st gen neon trans only the srt guys are talking about it
i would never skimp out on any part im just starting with the cheapest alternative to get opinions on it
start at the bottom with a bandaid part that will tear up your stock dift and could send the pin through the case, thus rendering the entire trans to shit… or go with a part thats known to work better then the bandaid once, and never look back
i bought a quaife for my car… it cost me 1500 bux… and i never looked back
…wtf?
3.55 takes a quaife just like a 3.94 would. I haven’t seen any 400whp Neons run 14s either. Mark (neonglh) was into the 12s on 275whp.
What does the final drive ratio have to do with a Quaife? I think the diff carrier is the same. I’ll ask tomorrow.
any help from you guys would be great, still doin research on my end
about the 3.55, ididnt say it would be any different, i just couldnt come up on any threads showing peoples experiences with this setup