It is a 99 mustang. But already has converter for aftermarket. Its a Pioneer flip DVD player. Please get back to me before Tomorrow night. I might have to go to boomer otherwise
I would do it but I don’t do house calls, neither will most people here. Not worth my time to drive 2 hours total, waste my gas and go out of the way to install a cd player. I have all my tools to properly install it at my house. Soldering iron, wire cutters, heat shrink tubing, heat gun, hand tools and whatever else I would ever need. Electrical tape is for bundling wires, not protecting the connections as far as i am concerned. No twist, crimp, and tape shit here.
What do you mean converter for aftermarket? The vehicle specific wiring harness? Or the plastic work to make it physically fit?
Ok. Lol. I only know forumnames lol. If he cant do it I will let you know (but if your 2 hours away I dont think I will be too lenient on driving that far :-D)
but in any case he seems like he knows what hes doing or atleast I get that vibe from the way he talks lol.
Kenny does very good work, and is very neat when it comes to wiring, been friends with him for a while and he knows his shit, also had him put in my remote start last winter.
I’ll be up-front right away. I rarely solder. When I was installing, I made 2 connections; one of my own non-solder connections and a soldered connection. We then took the wires off of one of the benches and started hanging different tools from them to see what would break first. Neither connection ever came un-done however the soldered connection was the first to break. The wire itself broke right next to the soldered joint. I couldn’t tell you the exact weights but they were pretty damn close to equal and they a HELL of a lot more force than you would EVER have pulling while inside the car… unless possibly you were in an accident and the car happened to break apart right at that point. lol. In over 6 years of installing I never ever had a single wire connection come back or ever have an issue. Do I believe in soldering??? Yes. For 90% of the people out there, it is a fairly decent fail-safe to be sure of a good connection. However if you know what you are doing, you can get just as good of a connection.
just my .02… not going to start another solder vs. no solder argument
I have done competition installs, and tons of personal installs as well as friends installs. Never soldered a connection, and never had a problem or a wire come undone, as long as its done properly.
I will :lol. Becasue the OP is getting his stuff installed so the thread is /done, so why not.
The reason I dont like crimp connections:
Expensive: unless you buy a case of connectors in bulk, spending $5 for them adds up quick when your doing a $50 job for someone. the cheap ass ones are junk, the softer plastic ones are nicer IMO. Coil of solder would last you 20 HU installs at $8 and a $0.97 5 pack of heat shrink tubing will do an HU and a half (12 connections ave. per).
Cleanlyness: they just look better and more professional. Also its alot cleaner, and lower profile to e-tape up a bunch of 24ga outside dia connections together than 12 butt connectors or the traffic cone shaped crimp connectors together in a bundle. Makes it alot easier to suff the wires into the dash.
Could still short out: Proper install aside, if a stray wire were to somehow jiggle itself into the crimped end it could short. long shot but still.
Quickness: Strip both harnesses, tin the leads, slide on heat shrink, solder the joint, heat the tubeing, e-tape up the wire bundle.
Reasons I dont like heat shrink tubing/soldered joints:
Vibrations can wear a heat shrink tube through and short out. if the wires are laying on a sharp metal edge when you stuff it all back in there it the vibrations from driving could wear the tubing down.
Heat can “over shrink” more or less burn the tubing and short out. If they are near the heatsink on the HU, over heat the connection due to using too small a ga. wire for the load…
All comes down to proper install, both ways. Different strokes for different folks.
Slide shring tubing on (making sure for proper sizing)
Divide each wire into 2 sections (making a “Y” on each end)
Make the wires scissor each other (giggity)
Twist wires together so that there is roughly 3/4" of bare wire.
Tape the wires TIGHTLY starting and ending at least 1" from the connection. Using a single piece of tape for the entire distance is better but if you must “piece” the tape together, make sure to overlap by atleast 1/2". Also be sure to use real tape. Not the $.25 roll crap. Spend the $3-$5 on 3M Super 33… it holds up MUCH better over time through both hot and cold.
Slide shrink tubing over taped connection and heat it until it shrinks into place… being careful not to melt the tape. (If I don’t have shrink tubing, I skip this step)
Throw just a small piece of tape (single wrap) over each end of the tubing to keep moisture from seeping in. (and this one)
Repeat for all wires.
About 1" from the end of each connection (after the tape) I like to put a small zip-tie on each side. Make sure to tighten it with some good force, but not enough to cut through the wires. This will help to hold the wires together making them more like a single wire instead of multiple wires. (Think of the single stick vs. multiple sticks story you were always taught in gym class… lol). Sometimes I’ll use tape instead of zip-ties if I don’t have zip-ties handy.
It can be time consuming… even possibly as long if not longer than soldering, but will hold as good if not better.
There is so much stuff that can go wrong with soldering (cold soldering joint, over-heating the wire and yielding its strength, stiffening of the connection causing it to be brittle, obviously the whole burning yourself/your car, etc) that I prefer to stay away from it unless I have to.
However if there is ever a tight place that I cannot do the above, then its solder all the way. Like when people came in for a radio install and their buddy who knows all about installing and chopped their factory harness, leaving only an inch or two of wiring that I have to reach 3" into the dash to even feel it… yea, that just plain sucks.
Damn you Krazy… now I just wasted my damn lunch break writing this book… lol. Thats why I didn’t want to get into it. I hate your life. lol.