Whos good with KA's in the sauga area?

SON240sx Automotive
1

Who/where are the KA24DE pros around the sauga area? I need help figuring out why my engine lands on its face whenever I clutch-in from above 2500rpm. Im running out of ideas to try… I cant miss another drift day

If anyone knows of a guy that could help me out, please let me know ASAP. Thanks

Jake

2

could be idealer.

edit: idlier

3

try a maf sensor?..intake boot ripped?..adjust base idle?..arcing coil?

4

Is that a person on the forum?

---------- Post added at 09:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:51 PM ----------

I’d like to try another MAF but my buddies sold their 240s…

Intake and IC piping looks air tight, all couplers are tightt.

Base idle? I think you mean base timing? Im not sure. it might be off. This is why I need a person who knows his shit to let me kno

Ill check the coil for arcing tomorrow.

It looks like im missing another drift day… FML!!

5

try cleaning the maf by intake cleaner. dont touch the maf by anything sold like ur hand. but my bets on probably idler issue (Idle air control valve (IACV)). clean the throtle body and iacv with the intake cleaner too. if that dont work and if u got s13 (i think it only works on 13s but try on 14 if ur is) remove tps rev to 2k and let it idle a few times and if the idle speed is not between 670 to 750 then adjust the idle screw so it would be and do the test again til it is. u can also check the timing to be sure nothing is wrong there. i haven’t done it on a s chassis but on every car is the same; hook a timing light to the fist cyl ign plug wire and connect the rest to betray and pointing the thing at the crank. check with manual what it should be and turn the distributor to accumulate.

edit: timing should be 20 ± 2 degrees.

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ka-t? youre running an bov vented to atmosphere arent you?
try recerc. and see if that helps

7

no i ment base idle meaning unplug ur tps and see if engine still starts and idles…if ur running bov and u have a s-afc adjust you dec air…""when the car is completely cool start it up. have the safc mointoring throttle %, air flow, and rpms. have the engine at 1000rpms and write down the air flow. then have the engine at 2000rpms and write down the throttle % and air flow.

now go to the dec. air settings. the THR setting is the throttle % you documented at 2000rpms. the NE1 setting is the air flow you had at 1000rpms. the NE2 setting is the air flow you had at 2000rpms. this will get you very close to the settings you need. may not be perfect but very close. this will allow you to run an atmospheric bov without stumbling between gears""

ps. i ran a t25 without a bov for 2 years and never had a problem…it sounds alot cooler than a bov

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I cleaned the MAF 3 times with no improvement

Bought a new IACV with no improvement

Cleaned TB twice with no improvement

I’ll try what you recommended with unplugging the TPS and revving. I’ll lyk if that helps

I have already messed around with the timing but that didnt effect the stalling problem at all

I appreciate your help

---------- Post added at 09:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 PM ----------

I have my BOV disconnected and it doesnt help. I have a feeling the engine is going lean after clutch-in. When the engine stalls out after a long hard pull, it wont start unless I hold the gas peddle to the floor for like 5-8 seconds of cranking.

---------- Post added at 09:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:04 PM ----------

Thanks but im running a simple FMU setup for now. My engine always had the RPM drop issue before I turboed it but now with the turbo its gotten way worse.

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k since you have changed the idler, you should see if it works.(do this with a small bulb if you dont have a volt meter)…however since you say you need to give gas to keep from stalling after start (AND IF YOU READ TOO LEAN I.E RATIO HIGHER THAN 1:14) then you have a fueling issue. (considering you dont have any bobbles in coolant and timing is good and no water in exhaust). so check fuel pressure before starting (after priming) and check it whilst driving and giving gas and etc, if it falls below 40psi (i think) then check the pump resistance and check with manual then check resistance of the green wire (i think or could be the black and white one) and the battery then the black one and the ground. (non of them go to ecu the ecu only turns the relay on). if you have a spare pump just put that. and if pressure is too low then you regulator is somehow running reverse to what it should. so just unplug the vac line going to it. after that changes nothing change the filter for good measure although the filter cant reduce pressure put it can rise it). after that all falls you could have a stuck open injector (but that would make the engine run richer not leaner). get them out and go to a shop to clean them. they will also flow check em and if one has mad flow you have to change that. if that dont work put a boost gauge and see if you have a boost spike after lift off. yo may have a faulty bov.