KA24DE Bad idle, when coming to a stop.

SON240sx Automotive
1

Ok, so i had my other thread with my ps problem, the shutting off…have all that figured out.

BUT, by the end of it i ran into an idle problem. Now to narrow down my search im gonna make this thread to get my problem solved by people who may not want to enter the thread titled the way it was. SO admins, by all means delete my previous one, its no longer needed.

So this is the problem.

When i start the car, it idles fine…like a normal cold ka.
Once the engine settles at its normal state of heat and im driving, once i begin coming to a stop my idle will drop.
If im coming to a complete stop throw in the clutch, i can watch my idle drop to 200 than bounce up to 700 than back down to 200…etc etc.
At some times the car would drop so low it would stall…
This idle problem happens at EVERY stop. So i constantly have to break with my left foot, and keep idle with my right…now that gets very hard on ice let me tell you LMAO.
My cluster lights also SLIGHTLY dim when the brake is applied.

Ok so here are somethings i’ve tried, and some things people said it could be.

First, i cleaned my maf sensor with some electrical cleaner got it back on, still nothing…

Second, put in a diff maf sensor…same thing pretty much.

Third, unloaded a can of cleaner into the right hose (iacv hose) of the intake…still nothing

Fourth, went to my old job (Partsource) and got the battery tested and alternator…batter is fine, but the alternator is charging at 12v…good or bad?

So pretty much thats what i’ve done, and what everyone has told me to do…so, any other tips would be much appreciated.

Heres a vid of exactly what its doing…
and yes i know my speedo doesnt work…
and skip to about 1:20 in the vid…(you can see what happens when i come to a stop)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3qqp4sXXK4

Thanks.
Mike

2

I know exactly whats causing the issue, remember the Duct tape? there’s your answer.

3

No, i checked it, took it off and sealed it properly…that wasnt the issue.

4

I’m still willing to bet thats the problem, I’d recommend getting an aftermarket intake. the problem you seem to be having sounds just like an erratic airflow reading, and since you have changed your MAF I’m gunna say that theres a leak in the piping somewhere after the MAF. However maybe toss in from fresh plugs and a fuel filter while your at it anyways.

5

Also your cluster lights and such will dim at ultra low RPM’s due to the extra strain being put on the charging system because the engine is running so slowly.

6

I plan to get an aftermarket intake.
But for now…i need dis fixed y0!

7

Possibly IACV…

  1. Unplug the IACV hose from the intake and spray some throttle body cleaner into it - get someone to rev it to keep it from dying while it’s sucking in the TB cleaner… Don’t let it die while sucking in the cleaner or there maybe slight chance of hydrolock.

  2. Shut car off. Wait 5 mins.

  3. Turn car back on - see if got better. If you see slight improvement, repeat steps again - it must just need to loosen up.

It also works for cars that are idling too high once warm - my engine used to “get stuck” and idle minimum at 1150 rpm when warm - sprayed some TB cleaner in IACV hose - now it’s 850 when warm.

Good luck

8

i had the same thing happen with my GTS but i found it was just that the Intake piping had come loose where it attaches to the Throttle Body … check for any loose attachments. filter>maf , maf>piping , piping>throttle

9

That stuff’s been checked, still nothing.

10

did you try and clean out the IAC valve… throw in some sea foam… last but not least check for leaks from the intake gasket!

11

seafoam is a good idea…
you can take a look at your injectors

if you’re changing all fluids…maybe there’s just a lot of carbonization that needs to be cleaned out

12

Any tips on how to do it?

13

pull off the hose from the brake booster n stick it on seafoam can

14

Seafoam = for the sea foam what i do is pour a 1/3 of the sea foam into a shallow bowl or something similar and disconnect the PCV hose the connects from the valve cover (or the method dftsilvia mentioned works too)… while the car is running dip the hose into the seafoam… at the same time slightly reving the engine…to keep it from shutting off… once the seafoam is done quickly shut off the car… let it sit 5-10 minutes… start it up and rev the engine… slow at first and gradually move up! (dont forget to enjoy the smoke show while your at it)

Intake Gasket = To test the intake gasket have the engine running and use carburator cleaner or similar and spray it on and around where the intake mani attaches to the engine…if you hear or feel even see any abrubt changes in the idle… then you more then likely have a bad intake gasket… the intake gasket is cheap probably 10-20 bucks the labour is gonna cost you.

let me know i know a guy that will do it for a good price!

15

to bad the IACV carb cleaner didnt work…

but right now im workin on my buddys Accord. same problem you describing but it idles between 700-1300 so we dont worry about it stalling but still it ant right…
and also it starts some days and dosent start on others… compleltly random conditions and times… no idea why its doing that but well finger her out eventually

ive never had an engine defeat me yet… and the day i do is when i rape the slut of all her parts and sell them to get another one.

16

I’m with Jowo, but I don’t know specifically what he means about the duct tape. It sounds to me as though you have a leak in your intake system between the MAF and the Throttle plate. On my car, it was in the baffle that ran down the side of the radiator. Remove this baffle but leave the hose that goes to it from the bottom of your intake pipe. Then take a soda cap to plug the hose that went to the baffle, re-tighten your hose clamp around the soda cap. This will get you fixed up until a)the snow melts, or b) you get an intake.

Let me know how it works out.

17

the duct tape is covering the hole in the intake pipe that that hose would attach to, the baffle and hose aren’t there.

18

Anyone have an idea as to why this only happens once the cars been warmed up and at its nominal heat stage?

19

all i can think of is replace the IAC valve all together… as in a Brand new one… but those i hear cost an arm and two fingers!

my dads mazda 626 has the same problem… its been posted on the mazda forums and many other peopl have the same problem… but no one is able to fix it! not even Mazda dealership mechanics…

i dont know what else to tell you! good luck with it! and be sure to post if you figure it out!

20

“This idle problem happens at EVERY stop. So i constantly have to break with my left foot, and keep idle with my right” perfect opertunity to perfect heel toe? hahaha jks stupid question i didnt read though everythingand i dunno what was wrong the first time but check ur timing?