Help me out with my KADET

SON240sx Automotive
1

Alright I need help figuring out whats going on with my engine. The RPM drops when I clutch-in. Clutching-in from below 3000rpm, the RPM drops super low like 100 and then rises up to idle which is around 1000. Clutching-in from any rpm above 3000, the engine will always land on its face unless I tap the gas peddle. My AEM eugo wideband is telling me that the ATFR is going very rich (10-11) when I clutch-in yet idles lean in the 16s…

Somethings triggering more fuel when I clutch-in. What can cause this? Bad MAF, ECU, FPR?

I have already bought a new IACV, plugs/wires, cleaned MAF. I tried changing the timing with no luck.

Heres my setup

Stock KA24DE
Stock ECU
Walbro 255/zx filter
Stock injectors
Stock MAF
SR T25 on stock psi
Ebay bottom mount mani
24" CX racing FMIC
HKS v3 BOV (disconnecting it helps out a bit)
8:1 FMU for now (without the FMU hooked up, the car runs a bit lean but still goes crazy rich and stalls out when clutch-in)

I want to get this thing figured out before the next drift day so any help or suggestions would be great.

Jake

---------- Post added at 04:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:28 PM ----------

I should also mention that the engine had the RPM drop issue before I turboed it but it got much worse with the turbo on.

2

Check for vacuum leaks especially around the fast idle valve not sure if ka’s have them but my h22(honda) did

3

Thanks. Ive checked my vac lines many times but no leaks found

4

upgrade your injectors to 370cc at least and get the c ar tuned. You can’t expect a boosted ka to run fine on stock ecu

5

its getting too much fuel and stalling out according to my wideband. runs the same without the turbo hooked up.

6

How about the wiring for the maf make sure its not broken anywhere

7

thanks ill check that out

8

let me help out here. This has nothing nothing at all to do with your turbo setup. noting about vacuum leaks. don’t wast your time with this its not going to help at all. First start with your O2 sensor. This is very common for older KAs. My buddy had a problem with that sort of thing the O2 sensor was the problem just replace it see what happens.

9

Thanks ill try that. Today I unplugged the o2 while idling and there was no change at all in idle or ATFR. It must be a bad o2…? Ill give that a try.

10

I tested the voltage between the sensor and ground while idling and I got zero volts. I read it should be between .2-.9v. I called nissan and they told me its $136 for a new one! anyone know of a cheaper alternative? I bet there isn’t one

11

parts source. hands down the cheapest place to buy new after market parts. Almost as good as OEM. I got mine on sale from Canadian tire though nkg for 63 bucks. both have good prices

Can you let us know if this solves your problem?

12

awesome ill check them out.

I have an AEM EUGO wideband. Isn’t it possible for me to use one of the extra wires from the sensor and hook it up to my ECU? I’ll see if I can find the damn manual for the thing

13

check for boost leaks too while you’re in there, do you have access to a leakdown tester? or a homedepot pipe cap + nipple diy thingy?

14

I sprayed the IC piping and welds with starter fluid but couldn’t find any leaks. I was going to try and make a tester but all the PVC tubing I could find is either 2" or 3". My IC piping is 2.5" so im out of luck…

15

For those who might have the same issue with their engine… it turns out one of my trany sensors are bad. I unplugged all 5 sensors and the problem is completely gone. time to get ready for the 30th!