hey all
ok so this is a wierd ass problem. I have no horn, no hazzed lights, no high beams or any interior lights when the car is off, but i fire up the car and when its running all these things work perfectly. has anyone with an s13 hatch ever had a problem like this?
check voltage output of the batt when the car is off
and take another test when the car is on
ok i’ll try it right now, but the battery and alternator are new
nope thats not the problem, the battery is putting out 12.35v before start up and a bit under 12v when running. i think thats sufficient enough
could it be an open circuit somewhere?
the voltage is good…
umm
check your relays, fuses and switches…
also check your ignition harness…
could that be loose?
thanks for the help, i’ll check the relays,fuses etc. again, could have missed something before.
it outputs UNDER 12v when running?
it should be like 13.4 ish when running
do the horn, lights or wipers work when you’re in ACC?
it seems as if stuff that should operate at all times is only operating in ACC or ON mode…
aside from relays and fuses, check ALL chassis and engine grounds
has anybody touched the wiring on your car?
it souns like they wired those things only when the car is ON
Quick question is there anything that turns on when its in the ACC position?
if so what are they??
uh your alternator is no good. or a blown fuse/burnt fusible link. check your wiring thoroughly. if everything is okay you need an alternator. you should have close to 14 volts when running.
yeah alt is definitely NG if you’re getting anything in the 12’s even. like 87s said it should be close to 14…maybe 14.2 V iirc?
also be sure to check your key cylinder for anything abnormal. ie…check that you can distinctly feel each detent (off, acc, on) and that the play within each detent (especially the off position) is reasonable. you can probably find a troubleshoot guide for this if you don’t know how to go about it in the fsm. just look for an inspection section for that component. reason why i’m saying this is because i’ve had 3 friends all suffer from a worn key cylinder/tumbler in the past 4 months and this was on an odyssey, old gen camry, and g35 sedan. unless your wiring’s whack, battery’s weak, fuse is missing for a few spots, i would start targetting the off position accuracy of the key cylinder.
yeah check your altinator belt, maybe its bad u should have near 14 volts when running. not over it though a high voltage also means a bad altinator.
thanks for the help all, i still haven’t located the problem but with ur help i have some ideas CHEERS
UPDATE: Hey all
so I had a 3 year warrenty on my battery so i brought it to Walmart they tested it, turns out it had a dead cell or just wasn’t sufficent enough. So they replace my battery and car runs fine for 3 days. Then i am driving to canadian tire to pick up some stuff, she feels a little wierd. I park, go inside come back out and it won’t start. So i get a boost and go back to my house, i screw around a little bit and find that the alternator was only charging the battery slightly when i was revving 4000rpm or more. So I drive it only short distances and only to work 2 minute drive down a road but then yesterday car dies again, boost it again then go home. Alternator seems to be completely pouched now, but i am wondering how because the alternator is only 3 months old, the belt is a little old but looks to be in good shape.
Does anybody have any ideas?
When i explained my problem to a mechanic without him seeing the car, he said it may the voltage regulator?
Any help or suggestions are welcome
bump
in our cars the voltage regulator is built into the alternator
was the ‘new’ alternator actually new or was it a rebuilt?
14.7 when the car is running
wow, its amazing what a fuse will do. I checked it before but must of been to “out of it” to realize, but my 75a alt fuse was popped. got a new one from nissan and now every electrical probnlem i had is GONE
Yay!! Good Stuff Man