I spent some quality time on a dyno last night trying to dial in my piggyback and adjustable wastegate.
I made good numbers, but the curves look like crap, and torque falls flat on its face. I held 12psi in this run. Can anyone interpret this and figure out what caused this, and possibly how to fix it?
baseline before clamp and adjustable WGA (downpipe installed):
Downpipe, clamp, and PTP WGA:
To top it all off, I found out what limp mode is like this morning… time to buy a code reader.
Looks like a boost spike at build up, and then it falls off. Your controller is obviously not set up right… try playing with the frequency. You can see it and the TQ jumping around through the pull, and up top it just looks like the ignition is breaking up.
Thanks for the input! Frequency? sorry man I’m really new to turbos, please bear with me. By you saying frequency though, are you suggesting an electrical type over a mechanical? I don’t have a boost controller yet, but its fairly high on the list now. Would a cheap mechanical suffice? I’m not looking to dump too much money/power into the car.
If the ignition is breaking up, would you look at plug type or gap? I have ngk iridiums (no colder, stock replacement) gapped at .035" now.
I assumed your adjustable wastegate was electronic.
Throw the iridium out and get copper in there.
My bad. the wastegate’s only adjustment is the arm length. Also the pressure line going to the wga goes through a solenoid along the way - maybe that’s messing with it. I’m thinking of deleting that solenoid and tossing in a real controller.
Duly noted on the plugs. 
Srt4’s have an electronic wastegate solenoid. You may be onto something
yeah, and it worked well in my first dyno… then i replaced the wga and clamped the MAP and TIP sensors, and viola! a set of very hairy curves.:lolno: Anybody selling a boost controler cheap?
well that makes it sound like your clamps arent working properly. do you have a way to check the voltage going from the clamps to the ecu?
maybe only change one thing at a time, if thats plausible.
yes, there is a lead that you can test with a multi-meter. i have it set around 2.9V (its one clamp that works on both signals). I’ve read that 3.2V is extremely rich, and 2.7 is almost maxed out lean.
I tried that approach, shorten the wga arm, run it, then lower the clamp voltage, run it, then back to the wga, and all the while the engine was getting more and more heatsoaked.
breakstuff was at the dyno for over 4 hrs last night. I’m a little PO’d they let him walk with the car acting odd.
Ask the shop that dyno’d it to give you a graph with boost on it so we can see what the boost is doing.
Already asked this morning, I’ll keep on them for it. There must have been a boost leak on the dyno because early on i hit 15psi, and later I couldn’t get it to even spike over 12psi. Then I found and fixed that leak on the drive home which made a huge improvement… I have a sick feeling that i wasterd all that dyno time trying to tune a goddam leak:deadhorse: and nobody noticed.
Would you recommend one brand over another? I could get the ngk 1 step colder plug and see if that helps.
NGK copper ftw
theyre 300 at the crank right? 294 at the wheel seems pretty good, i still dont understand why these things are slower than the old srt4s for having an extra gear and plus 60 hp
let the pros handle it (not that you dont know what youre doing), these guys are geniuses for our car http://www.modernperformance.com/0809-dodge-caliber-turbo-accessories-upgrades-c-417_588.html
i’m digging through the ngk site and found copper core platinum laser welded tri-metal v-grooves. Can you interpret this jargon fluff and just tell me a series to look in???
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/results.asp
If not i’m just driving to summit and bugging them haha
Summit racing in ohio? I will go! lol
its ~40mins south of where i’m at… its nice and stuff, but i’d still rather be back in NY
