anyone ever hear of running 0w40 oil instead of 5w30 in a b16 or anything ,…i read on honda tech that it puts down 4-7% more whp and its lasts longer since it is fully synthetic…it goes in nearly clear and comes out nearly clear 3000 miles later???
can anyone help me out , im interested in trying it but im sumwhat leary…
Mobil 1 makes a 0w30 that I know of, but it’s damn hard to find in stores…
Less viscosity = more HP (so it’s claimed and I’ve read/heard). You’re going to pay a bit more for synthetic 0w* usually, though. Look up Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc. for details about their claims. I’d like to be standing next to the dyno and read charts of before with regular 5w30 dinojuice versus after a flush & 0w* synthetic.
well i just changed my oil to mobil1 0w40 , i was told to use 0w50 but i noticed a little acceleration difference but i guess your not supposed to notice anything big until the second oil change so everything old is out of the motor. at napa it was 6.89 a qt , i am going to order the $10 qt nippon 0w30 because its supposed to be the best.
now your gonna get every ricer running out to find 0w for that extra hp, lol
I would stick with 5w30
I’m not to sure if any ricers care enough to spend 10 bucks a qt
I personally use 10W30 GTX conventional oil. I have heard horror stories about synthetic oil leaking and stupid stuff.
if the motor didn’t come from the factory with it i think it is a waste of money IMO
yea…engines that have run regular non synthetic oil their whole lives should stay that way…i think a rule of thumb is if your motor is over 70k DO NOT switch to synthetic
that isn’t necessarily true. Older seals and stuff will swell differently in synthetic than in dino oil, so you may have leakage issues. I wouldn’t make a blanket statment like that though.
VTAKC PWNS J00!!!1!! with 0w* oil
lol.
even when switching isn’t there a “breakin” process where you don’t just jump to synthetic completely?
Almost went that route…to bad for you!?:down:
no not really, some say there is, other say no.
www.bobistheoilguy.com details the argument pretty well.
Well the motor has been running synthetic since 33k and its now at 5xk the only leak I had was a loose filter! No leaks otherwise and it runs great
I use Royal Purple 5w30 in my B18C5 and have never had a problem. I couldn’t see oil giving you that much of a hp increase.
The purpose of synth is to go longer between changes, doesn’t matter if the car came with it from the factory or not, if you use synth and change it every 3K miles your wasting money, but you can run synth up to 10K and 20K miles, best way to see what your oil is doing is to send it to a lab (Blackstone Laboratories) I’m running the 25K Amsoil and getting it tested around 10K…
I’ve heard Amsoil can go for a long time if you check the suspended solids and the chemical levels.
Here’s the link describing products and service intervals and related items.
And here’s the link to the sample kit:
When I put the new KA24DE into my car over 2 years ago I started using a full synthetic. The engine had service records from the previous owner and had roughly 66k on it. I have not had any leaking or burning of the oil. The KA calls for 10w30 oil and i run 5w30 year round. The change interval is anywhere from 7 to 9k miles.
thats my .02 cents.