So I bought my first Honda. It’s a 94’ Civic. 217k miles
I’m doing the head gasket on it, should I take the head somewhere to get checked out and pressure tested?
If so, who should I check with? (I’m out by the Airport, and already checked with Bolland, B&R, and Station Auto).
I considered having the valve seals done, but I’m getting mixed answers from local shops. Some say not to do it, with that many miles I’m likely to start burning oil.
Or I can pick up a completely rebuilt head on fleabay for $175 + shipping.
Valve seals (and the rings obviously) are likely the source of any smoke the motor made previously. Definitely do the seals.
Have a machine shop check the block (if possible) and the head. If it’s flat, then get a new headgasket and put it on. Maybe new timing belt, water pump, t-belt tensioner, oil pump…etc while you are in there. There is no telling whether the previous owner did any of that. If the head is not flat, you can have it machined, but it will need disassembled, and there is no guarantee that a head you buy used is going to be flat either. How in depth do you want to go?
I should of gave a little more background (didn’t want to make everyone read a huge post)… I just bought this car, the previous owner did the head gasket (oil/water mixing). He replaced the timing belt and waterpump at that time. I’ve put about 500 miles on it, I’ve been getting around 35mpg and not burning any oil that I can tell. Now I’m getting exhaust in the cooling system. I already got the head off, and I see why the gasket failed. The head bolts were not properly torqued. I was able to remove two of them with just the socket and extension! That’s why I’m afraid it may be warped.
Being a Chevy fanboy I would love to drop a LS1 in my beat up little 4 door Civic. Perhaps if I had the money and time, I would.
I think I’m just gonna get my original head checked and pressure tested. I did a little more reading and am afraid the restored compression of a new head will kill the 217k mi bottom end.
sounds like shit is getting overcomplicated. put a straightedge across the head, check it w/ a feeler gauge. if it is with in spec, run it. do the same to the block mating surface. if neither one is out above spec, slap a head gasket in and go.
First of all, what are you trying to do here? If this car is basic transportation, take a step back before you start throwing money into the wind.
Is there any reason to think the valvetrain needs work? You said it’s not burning oil, so unless it was smoking, it sounds like you’ve found the issue in the headgasket. What is telling you that the head should be pressure checked? Check it yourself, put on a gasket and drive your car.
Thanks for the replies, I’ve got my mind all made up now.
bgblockelcamino,
Dark blue
vw16vcabby,
I did using my best straightedge. The smallest feeler in my set is .003, going by that the block and head seem fine.
It is just basic transportation, but I don’t mind spending 80-90 bucks to ensure I don’t have to do this job over again.
PoisonousBeef,
I just wasn’t sure if it was “worth while” to do the valve seals while I had everything pulled apart. I’m not going to waste my time and cash with it, but still get it checked just for peace of mind.
My buddy went through a very similar situation years ago with his D series. He blew the head gasket, put a new one on and it blew again… so then he had the head machined and guess what it blew again! It was the block that wasnt straight…
You might be better off finding a motor to swap in, but then again… who knows what could be wrong with the new motor…
Fuck it, take it apart and check the block deck for straightness, also definitely have the head pressure checked.
