Well I noticed some white smoke coming from the exhaust two days ago. Was worried about the rings. I checked the turbo and all is good. I checked the coolant and there is oil in it. So, the head gasket needs replaced, and I just did a $40 synthetic blend oil change two days ago too 
A few questions for you honda guys:
1.)Do I, or should I get ARP Head Studs for 8 psi? If not, reuse original bolts?
2.)I plan on using a Honda Head gasket…any other suggestions? I have read up that thicker head gaskets aren’t any good for the most part.(unless 20+psi)
3.)Car has 80K on it so I’m going to do the timing belt at the same time. Any suggestions or comments?
4.)Will the head need milled w/ the arp studs, do these make a difference in the need to get the head milled. Opinions/comments?
5.)What other seals/parts should be replaced at the same time?
Thanks ! :hs:
whoa man do not reuse the original bolts they have been stretched and will not seal do the head studs cant go wrong, and u should not need the head machined in any matter if its in good sound shape, and a little thicker gasket could be benificial if u plan on running more boost if not keep it stock unless they are truely a weak link, which it may be since it blew with just 80k and low boost on the motor
oh and question #4 get hondabond for the valve cover around where the cam is located it likes to leak there but u can reuse your valvecover gasket just use honda bond on each end where its like a half moon where the cams connect to the camgears
we just had the valve cover gasket off last week…no leaks. Any one day turn around shops in pgh for milling heads?
[QUOTE=ZEXaccord]
A few questions for you honda guys:
1.)Do I, or should I get ARP Head Studs for 8 psi? If not, reuse original bolts?
get ARP’s. you shouldnt reuse stock headbolts and the ARP’s are alot stronger.
2.)I plan on using a Honda Head gasket…any other suggestions? I have read up that thicker head gaskets aren’t any good for the most part.(unless 20+psi)
factory headgasket will be fine. you already have pretty low compression so theres no need for a thicker one.
3.)Car has 80K on it so I’m going to do the timing belt at the same time. Any suggestions or comments?
while your in there, timing belt, water pump,and balance shaft belts
4.)Will the head need milled w/ the arp studs, do these make a difference in the need to get the head milled. Opinions/comments?
as long as the surface of your head is flat(not warped) then you should just be able to put it back on and use the arp bolts. just check the head surface with a straight edge first.
yea the car hasn’t ever overheated or anything so i’ll just check the head out w/ a feeler gauge and straight edge. I hear that the H23 ARP Studs work on my motor(F23) but I’m going to call tomorrow to make sure,and then order. The car all in all has been running fantastic and haven’t had any other issues besides this. I am going to begine to mildly build a f23 to prevent the ringlands from going. I found a motor for $300 w/ decent miles. I’m gonna do a forged bottom end and stock top. Sounds like a good days work ahead of me. :crossfingers
IMO…
ALWAYS!!! get the head checked after you pull it. Simply removing the head in the wrong sequence can cause it to warp. take it to a machine shop and spend some money to get it milled and pressure checked. Since you have oil in the water, there is a chance the head cracked. I haven’t seen a honda multilayer headgasket blow between a water jacket and an oil port in a long time.
While your in there, port match the intake and exhaust.
Station Auto in Cory…(had to use the plug)
well…after a further analysis of the financial situation and work load to replace the HG, timing belt…etc etc and still risk the issue of something else still being broken, I decided to go with a 52K mile motor from Toll Gate Auto. Motor is only $400 and hopefully in as good of shape as the guy says. I’m picking up tomorrow morning and swapping it tomorrow. I’m planning on taking the old motor for inspection, and doing a mild forged bottom build so I can make the HP a bit more reliable. Thanks for your help on the above replys though…
Good Plan, stock block with forged pistons and rods. You should be able to push it Pretty good!