Goes my headgasket.
So now I’m on to replacing that, and have a couple questions.
Other then the obvious replacement of the headgasket and all other gaskets I’ll be removing anyways, replacing the coolant(flush) and oil, is there anything else I should do?
Should I run the oil through for a couple hundred miles and replace it again to clean it out good?
Also, should I replace the cyl. head studs?
What car?
Are there studs or bolts in there now?
if you havent done timing belt water pump change those while your there…plugs cap and rotor also. And yes i would change oil again pretty soon…when mine blew i ran about 4-5 qrts of oil threw the engine with the drain plug out to get everything out of it…and still changed oil again around 100 miles later. If you have studs they dont need replaced if you have bolts they need replaced they are stretch bolts
Sorry I always forget…1998 VW Jetta with the 2.0 8v
get the head checked for warpage. i know a lot of people get away with it. but i like the peice of mind knowing that the head is flat and true somewhat to help on sealing
have it “decked” and you may want to get the heads ported and polished on a flowbench since it will have to be disassembled anyways. matching the intake and heads is a great power adder.
check the seats, valves, guides etc.
Thanks for the tips guys, the power adders are no longer what I’m looking for on this car though since I’ve got my eye on something pretty and blue for the summer months soon…
Anyways, this should all be going down this Sunday/Monday so I have my fingers crossed that it’s just the head gasket and no other problems with it…
i would seriously take head to machine shop to have it checked. think it is like less than 50 bucks. doesn’t need to be refurbished just checked for cracks, warpage etc.
good luck
Thanks for the advice I’m looking into that around here I don’t know any good shops(Ohio, Pitt it would be easy!)
I’m hoping for the best preparing for the worst…
any shop should be able to do that honestly. if just a daily it should be fine
though it may be obvous, make sure you use VW/Audi coolant, not some “every make” crap. I think '98 should be G12 (pink). If it’s blue it’s the G11. You should’t have too much trouble finding someone to do it, that 8v head is so common. Those head bolts gotta go too cause they are strech bolts.
a running full motor for these costs less then machine shop costs
^^^^^
this is true i am doing a head right now. and the machine work and gaskets were same price as motor. but the motor had less than 40k on it.
sorry for the thread jack but i was wondering also, could I have the head decked slightly to ensure flatness with it still being assembled?
you have the block decked and the head shaved. the shop will do this within tolerances to maintain compression. to raise compression they would be milled out of stock tolerances while maintaining allowable valve/piston clearences.
As far as head bolts, the factory bolts are torque- to- yield and therefore have to be replaced with new bolts.
kaboom, yes rico, ka boom
ya shaved, Im just wondering if it can be done with the internals still in it. Im not going to extreme and raise my compression, I just want a flat surface. so i’d take off like 0.30?