12.6 @ 117

It’s simply your instant speed as you pass the 1/4 mi beam. They call them traps im assuming from police radar traps?

yup ^^^ is right its the speed at which u pass through the finish line

sasha, you should try and make it for a friday night test n tune, not only is it cheaper to run, it’s cooler and we all know how that affects turbos.

So then it is your final speed at the 1/4 mark…

Yes it is your 1/4 mile time …it can actually be any speed at which you pass a timing box but most will just use the term for the final 1/4 mile time. I think what Sasha meant earlier was is 60 ft times were high due to spinning the tires 60ft is how fast you get out of the box … a combo of good traction and cutting a good light will bring down your 60 foot.

Sasha your 60ft is pretty good now even with the bad reaction time. If you can cut a better light then your times should drop across the board. I guess we will see this weekend. Good Luck!

i thought for test and tune your reaction time doesnt count?

I think he means you 60’ time… you are right…reaction doesn’t mean dick. You could sit there for 5 minutes and still pull of a 12.6@117

You might want to try some VHT. Cayuga is usually dripping in the stuff anyway, but more helps.

It’ll be very hard to shave much time off that run. You’re already close to an under 2 second 60-ft time.

Launching harder will get you off the line quicker, but the C tranny’s 1st gear + the 4.10 rear end is going to hurt you. On a good launch, you will be shifting by 45ft out. Unfortunately close ratio boxes are kind of ass for drag racing.

A good launch will make you faster, but it might make you slower. If you’re crossing the traps in the top of 4th gear, launching harder back at the starting line will likely have you needing to use 5th. If you can get traction.

Nittos are nice, but they are not a slick. Slicks and drag radials are worlds apart. They will help don’t get me wrong, but you won’t get anywhere near the launch a drag slick will.

I don’t know if you’ll be able to shave 0.8 seconds off your time.

The whole stock suspension business … That’s a big crapshoot. Half the reason your 60-foot times are so good is your suspension. All the power transferred to your tires will become forward momentum.

What stock suspension will do is take the brunt of the power, without blowing off the tires. This is great for traction, but robs power. All that wind is going into the suspension, instead of pushing you forward, and you’re going to fight it all the way down the track. Think “fat kid on a see saw” all the way down.

Your trap speed is high, but not very, especially for a light RWD vehicle. We’re talking maybe 4mph. That would be a high trap speed for an AWD vehicle.

I’ve got loads of other tricks for analyzing runs and stuff, but I’m outta time for today. Hit me up some other time if you like.

hm well ill try both suspensions everyone ive talked to said stock would be better, and ive read about guys hitting 1.6-1.7 60fts with the nittos so hopefully I can do the same.

Lastly, im thinking about a 2nd gear launch on my 2step at 5500rpm with the turbo fully spooled, what do you guys think?

Sasha’s and Happy are both right: the timer does not start counting until your wheels pass the beam.

RT is taken into account for heads up… basically the first person to cross the line is the winner… compared to fastest ET (elapsed time) which is just measured as the time between the two beams.

Ahh ha ha… Didn’t I just say that last night?

How are you gonna spool the turbo at a stop? Hold up the motor against the clutch?

He may have a launch system…?

AEM EMS has 2 different types of ALS

Rally Style and 2 Stage Rev Limiting

Both spool the turbo without being under load…

^^^ Bob, Please Explain Both…

To my knowledge, the rally style uses an ignition retard setup, similar to most ALS.

Basically you fill in limits and values under which the ALS will operate. Conditions such as a throttle percentage, a boost value, an RPM switch, and a clutch interlock switch in most cases.

When these limits are all satisfied the ECU excutes a programming function in which the ignition is retarded, and fuel is injected as normal. This ignites the fuel in the manifold or turbo depending on the amount of fuel and how much it was retarded.

This explosion keeps the turbine spinning even when it isn’t under load per say. An example is in between shifts.

These were used on many rally cars over the past few years which explains the fire exjections coming from the tail pipes on shifts.

The 2 stage limiter system works on the same principles, except you aren’t moving and there are multiple simultaneous explosions before launch.

Basically the EMS takes your limiting inputs such as RPM, throttle and clutch interlock switch, and executes the 2 stage limiters fuction to hold at whatever the inputted RPM is, and then retard the timing accordingly as it repeatedly hits the RPM limiter. This constant retardation and bouncing of the limiter builds boost within the parameters set by the operator.

As soon as the clutch is released the limiter is nulled and reset to the second stage of the limiter. Allowing you then use the full RPM range once again.

As far as I know both use the same principles for different applications, both are very effective, especially for those with lag problems.a

Well this got technical real fast.

Moved.

for launching you just put in the type of rev limiter you want

fuel cut (wont build boost)
spark cut (will build a little boost)
ignition retard (insta boost byebye turbino)

the ALS is all off throttle stuff, the drag style ALS is for between shifts when you dont want any downtime, which is what i want to setup but i dont want to kill my turbo so im just gonna do a

5500rpm ignition retard
5501rpm spark cut

so i’ll get a little explosion in the turbo but hardly any

oh and yea jantos inspired me

Drag style I’d assume you mean no lift shifting?