1991 240sx hatchback silver [unfinished time attack project car rare & quality parts]

Classifieds
1

My first car and my second wife. I’ve had her since 2006 and I’ve always gone the opposite direction in my build than the average 240 builder. Never went for the slammed drifter/park look or cheap china parts.

While everyone wanted to drift I wanted to corner fast and go fast. I entirely focused my entire build on grip and cornering rather than looks or all out power.

This car has been totally unorthodox but I’ve put a lot of thought in the build. I was going to tube it front to back but someone that was going to do that work screwed me over and it’s been rarely driven since, not raced and sitting in storage.

It’s time to let her go… I’m second thinking myself but I have no time to continue this project which was to be a dedicated time attack car… I just want to get into a clean/stock smartly modded FD RX7 for occasional track days.

This would be an excellent project for someone who wants to continue where I left off to build a seriously competitive package for the track. A V8 power plant, tubing the car front to back and caging the chassis is what I was going to do next. I also have an uninstalled BN Blister bodykit (front to back) and 72" Kognition race wing (that are not included).

Engine/Drive train
-Stock KA24DE with chain guides removed
-Emission components removed
-Z32 Fuel Filter
-NGK Iridium IX BKR6EIX-11 4 Spark Plugs
-DC Sports 4-2-1 Header (2.5" exit)
-BRM 2.5" Full catback with dual exit tips and 22” resonator
-Bings polyurethane exhaust hangers
-2.5" Testpipe
-3" Intake
-Triple core Griffin Racing radiator (great for V8 and racing duty)
-NISMO thermostat
-Aftermarket Ignition Coil
-12mm spark plug wires
-Cusco engine mounts
-Peak Performance S13 Pro Race Polyurethane Tranny Mount
-Megan racing short shifter
-Cusco bottom shifter metal bushing
-1lbs weighted shift knob
-Stage 3 Cerametallic puck clutch
-10lbs chromoly flywheel
-10lbs aluminum driveshaft
-Braille Carbon fiber 10lbs battery
-Brand new fuel tank, brand new fuel straps, installed in tank 255lph walbro fuel pump
-New metal fuel lines coated red (stock were rusted had to be replaced)

Suspension/Brakes
-Front and rear custom coilovers:
Koni 8611 DA race shocks front and rear
Eibach Race Springs 600# front and 450# rear
Front Ground Control Camber and Caster adjustable pillowball tophats
Rear Tein pillowball tophats

-Front and rear Ichiba 5 lug hubs/bearings

-300ZX master brake cylinder 1 1/16
-Stainless brakelines
-New metal brakelines (stock were rusted when I first got the car)
-Front Wilwood Billet 6-piston Aluminum calipers with 13" (332mm) x 1.38"(35mm) thick 2 piece rotors
-Rear Wilwood Billet 4-piston Aluminum calipers with 12.2" (310mm) x 21mm thick 2 piece rotors
-Rear Brake Bias valve on transmission tunnel

-Enkei RPF1 17x9.5+15 SBC wheels front to back with 255/40/17 Nitto NT01 R comps

-Tanabe tubular front swaybar
-Custom Heim Jointed front endlinks

-Brand new FLCAs
-SPL Outter Tie Rod V5
-Tein Z33 Inner Tie rods

-Yanack Steering Rack Aluminum Bushings
-FRSport Steering Column Aluminum Bushing
-NISMO front subframe brace
-Rare JDM Traction Rod to front subframe brace (Yashio Factory Core Support Guard KIWAMI)

-Clean/Rust free S13 Sub frame with SPL solid bushings
-S15 Helical LSD and output driveshafts
-Z32 upright with Defsport heim jointed bushings
-SPL Rear Upper Control Arms V4
-SPL Traction Arms V4
-SPL Toe Arms V4

Chassis/Exterior/Interior
-Evo 2 Plus driver seat with Bride low brackets/sliders
-S14 JDM passenger seat

-TC Sportline F1 style mirrors

-GT-Spec C-pillar brace
-GT-Spec S15 R Spec style Trunk Brace
-DC Sports Front Strut Tower Braces
-DC Sports Rear Strut Tower Braces

-330mm Personal Neo Grinta 330mm black leather-read stitching steering wheel with working red horn button
-NRG slim hub and NRG quick release (both aluminum anodized)
-TC 70mm extended steering wheel spacer (aluminum anodized)

-Stripped interior (heating, air, speakers/audio, all related wiring minimized)
-Custom cut up and lightened stock dash for easy instant removal
-All internal panels and sound deadening removed

I think this is all, if I remember what else may be on the car but this is what I can recall right now.

-No more popups (kinda bad or unique style lol):
It’s half assed but one headlight comes with a functional HID low beam and regular hi beam (half assed long story) – the HID are hella projectors and they are money.
Other is an EastBear hi/low non-popup headlight installed (very rare – I have both but only one installed cost me 700$ used it’s out of production)

The story behind this sloppy headlight work is one summer I had no car and I was in the middle of cutting away the rad support to do the custom headlights and didn’t get to finish… needed a car… Never finished it. Got the EastBears (rare) but didn’t want to remove the HID half assed one.

THE BAD:
-Needs IACV it can’t idle all the time, but when it runs it runs great
-Exhaust leaking some place as you can smell the fumes in cabin
-Needs front frame rebuilt
-Outer panels are shit (plan was to cut everything away and install replacement fiberglass panels anyway)
-Front wind-shield has a crack
-Tires are ice skates/heat cycled to death/old and need replacing

This would be an excellent project car for someone with the skill and shop wanting to build an unorthodox time attack car.

I am willing to trade for a stock/unmolested/lightly modded FD RX7

or

11,000CAD

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Old video before further gutting, before mirror removal, before popup headlight replacement and before a few other mods:

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Despite being a KA, I could give a run for the money to modded WRXs, S2000s, and SR 240s at cayuga. Great corner, response, later braking, etc…

The boltons on the KA and the clutch/flywheel/driveshaft, etc… made for quite a response NA car. A V8, chassis/cage work and fibreglass panels would complete the car.

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Pics before F1 style mirrors and headlight removal:

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5

Nice suspension setting, but you are probably better off parting it and selling it stock, nobody is going to pay 10k for a ka’d patched hatchback.

6

Good start on the chassis but I fail to see just how different this is to many other peoples’ build apart from the fact that it’s a KA.

Most of the proper cars on this forum have similar suspension setups. I’m only mentioning this because you go out of your way to imply that people on this forum don’t put money into suspension for handling while you, do.

You’ve also failed to mention or include frame pictures/history.

7

#becauseshocksandsprings

Where’s Helen Keller?

8

Some people won’t be able to tell or know the difference or appreciate it.

-Slammed China Coilovers vs Koni double adjustable race shocks? A single Koni 8611 shock costs almost as much as some china coilovers out there (the whole setup). Don’t forget the cost of building housings/coilovers, springs, cost of camber/caster tophats, etc… Just because china coilovers are shiny doesn’t mean they are worth shit.

-Proven quality heim jointed adjustable arms vs china ebay arms with heim joints worthy of being a part of a wooden door or a piece of garden equipment. I recall even on here on this forum some people snapped those typical cheap arms. Once again just because it’s shiny and it fits in the same spot on the car doesn’t mean it’s the same.

-Brakes? Most people will splice together a junkyard oem brake setup and never spend the money or know the difference what a well put together BBK setup front and rear will be like (ten times better in a multitude of different ways). All the willwood setups being sold out there are the cheaper wilwood calipers and smaller thinner rotors and often times with OEM heavy rotors. Not to be compared with either. Compared to the 300zx brake setup I saved a ton of weight I can’t recall if it was 8lbs per corner (bigger calipers, bigger and wider vaned rotors, etc…)

9

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10

Hi guys. Here to set the record straight - this is one of the best built 240’s Ontario has ever seen. I would absolutely pay every cent of 11,000$. Intelligent seller, and fantastic workmanship.

11

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Forgot to also mention the car has a remanufactured S13 fast steering rack from FRSport…

12

11k is a steal man. i wouldn’t even try building such a time attack taniguchi spec’d hooptie with only 11k.

13

Not only that but it’s also a completely functional daily driver! Best of both worlds! I’d feel bad offering anything less than 13k!

14

^While I’ve enjoyed many summers off track, this totally depends on how young and manly you are. I am getting old and spoiled lol…

Solid subframe bushings, heim jointed wherever it can be, polyurethane elsewhere, a gutted interior, more or less straight through exhaust, track alignment, etc… etc… can only be a functional daily for the more hardcore…

You could of course put the interior back in (I don’t have that stuff no more)

With everything pretty much heim jointed, the suspension gets to work the way it’s meant to without squish or binding… therefore the shocks get to do their work. This is where the Koni 8611 shocks get to shine, they are amazing, even though spring rates are 600# (10.7kg/mm) front and 450# (8kg/mm) rear it feels compliant compared to many other over the shelf coilovers I’ve ridden in that make you shit bricks every time you hit a bump (at much lower spring rates). Still even with this in mind you have to be someone who tolerates an unorthodox ride. I didn’t build it to be a cruiser, I built it to be fun.

Off track it can be a hell of a lot of fun too in ‘privately reserved areas’. In bends you’ll surprise a lot of very expensive cars. You’ll out corner them and out brake them. Sure you’ll lose in a straight line (drop a v8 in and you won’t) but leave them in total shock when you’re up on their ass with pressure. It’s always put a giant grin on my face :slight_smile:

Of course I totally advocate safe and mature track racing only.

15

Buying this car is equivalent to pulling Excalibur from the stone - only a true king can wield such power.

16

So… for 11,000, I get a car that would be complete once I GET A NEW FRAME, spend 6-10k on a decent V8 swap, another 2k in roll cage, and basically, all the body panels…

Hmmm, this car for 11,000 with a broken frame and no fucking heater or Bing’s S14 for 13,000 or so? Hmmm, tough choice.

You’ll totally sell this really easily.

17

Worse case scenario, those parts are solid sellers! I have to admit he knows his stuff with suspension/grip racing.

Glws, although considering the shape of the chassis that price isn’t easy on the eyes…

18

Legit
Ill give you 1200

19

He’s not a professional driver nor someone who has the credentials to say anything about it.

20

this is the same guy who spent about a week trying to convince and cajole this forum that FORD TAURUS brakes were the best upgrade… This is not even a joke or a troll…