thats exactly the kind of power curve I’d want in a daily driver… :hsugh:
Stop being jealous of my monstrous American, non-Asian penis.
This is how much it was knocking
Free shawn played with the timing it improved greatly, but still not perfect so I have an appointment with Nate to tune it this Sunday
yea i talk to nate today and showed him the graph and he said its not good and to check your plugs and make sure that all your timing marks line up and do a comp.check and to make sure you do not have a boost leak.
The problem with checking the plugs is , if you dont shut down the motor right after making a pull you will not see the detonation on the plug. You have to make a full throttle pull and as soon as you jump out of the throttle you need to kill the motor so it does not alter the plug in any form or fashion.
That is kinda hard to do on the highway. If yyou dont kill the motor asap and stop it from spinning it will alter what is on the plug and you wont find the fine bits of piston material that will be present otherwise.
He can check them now , but at best they will do nothing but show that , that cylinder is either running rich or lean based on appearance but will not reveal the particles that one would be looking for , for knock
Personally I would consider dumping that meth injection. Upping the injectors and run E85 for the fun stuff.
Get a tactrix cable and EcuFlash and get a 93 octane map so you can switch from lower boost 93 to a more of a kill mode 30 psi and E85 , hell I would run that E85 all day everyday.
Get a BR double pumper intank and some 1200cc injectors and tune E85
or just do a really conservative tune, since the fucking retard is trying to use this thing as a daily driver.
Thats really the reality of it.
After breaking a rod not making much more power than that , I dont see the point in pushing the stock rods . They are small and weak.
Upgrading the bottom end can actually be done fairly cheap and then you can have all the daily driven fun you want!!!
i agree with you put rods and pistons in it and get a good tune on it without meth and that will be a bad ass daily
the biggest issue is i didnt intend on dumping alot of money into the car right now, i just want to get it tuned right and leave it how it is for now, ill be dumping money into it next winter probably but with the del sol still in progress i dont have the cash to keep dumping money into the evo, so im getting it re-tuned checked out and thats it for now
its a kick in the ass to have to pay 500 for another tune, but were gonna set it up to run without meth and with meth, ill just have to switch between maps, but i know what u guys are sayin , im really not interested in putting up huge numbers with the car right now just want it to be reliable and enjoyable, if it makes big numbers great, but honestly i drive close to 200 miles back and forth for work and school everyday, and i almost never even hit boost, i baby the shit outta it, so we’ll just see what happens this weekend with the new tune and go from there, but i have been thinking about selling the del sol possibly this summer and building the evo but then ill need the m3 for the daily and idk what im doing yet so im just keeping the evo as is, running the del sol this year at the track and then make up my mind later, thanks for all the help tho guys ill let u know what happens with nate and the tune
Do you know what a DSM is? Obviously you don’t. Step 1, shut the fuck up. Step 2, don’t talk the fuck back. Step 3, tree yourself. I’ve driven a highly modified real DSM for years, no problems. They are as reliable as the quality and craftsmanship put into them. You on the other hand spout off with ignorant comments and misinformation.
Truth on the plugs. On top of that I pretty much need a fresh set of plugs, not used plugs to do this test. Its a really really really great way to check cylinder to cylinder evenness to spot out a slightly off injector and/or poor intake manifold design as well as other variables. When your running 12.6-13.0 AFR on top of 35psi boost that stuff becoms important, I guess.
Dan, I really don’t think your motor let go due to surpassing the stock bottom ends capabilities. Failures such as your describe are usually due to bent rods. I don’t know exactly why but I’ve heard a bunch of stores about “driving home from the track approaching a stoplight” or “just cruising on the highway”. I think the rods go harmonic and let go. I wouldn’t be surprised to find out you preignited it a little. Like 1 or 2 strokes of preignition. A couple more strokes and it would have let go at full throttle. Another way they let go the way you described is by an over rev, usually associated with a mis shift. I don’t think you encountered one of those. I do know that 500+ sustained is capable on the stock bottom end. Now the evo rod bearings aren’t my favorite in the whole world, give me a beefy 6 bolt rod bearing any day.
At this point though its a moot point though huh? Its going to be badder than ever and you shouldn’t have to worry about it.
EDIT:
Also remembered you run an AEM. The stock Evo ECU kicks ass. The 1g DSM’s were fucking awesome for the day but are ho hum today. The evo on the other hand has some serious DSP going on. It has two patents in the knock control code. Its probably the one thing keeping the OP’s motor together. The 1g relied on analog knock boards to filter out the knock event. It actually worked pretty good but wasn’t adjustable and with age the analog components would change values and thus the ability to detect or not detect knock. The AEM, I don’t know what the engineers were thinking. I think they put a college intern to work on the code honestly. Basically its a knock voltage vs rpm table. If you go above a preset voltage on the knock sensor (a piezoelectric microphone basically tuned to a certian Hz) then you set up how much timing is pulled. The problem is that knock is a very short duration event that spikes the voltage. It doesn’t necessarily hold a voltage. Thus you can ping on cylinder and no timing will be pulled.
The other problem I’ve heard and seen is AEM cars hanging the rods on the top end of the track. I usually see 1 of these most of the import events I attend. Some say “it just lost sync” which is a nice way to say “My fucking AEM box didn’t know where the fuck it was and threw fuel and timing at the motor”. It usually doesn’t end up good. It worked out for me though, I bought a low mileage twin disc out of a 2g that hung the rods on the top end with under 2V of knock sensor voltage AKA “no knock”.
Great points Dan
Am I understanding this right. Are you using an AEM box on your 1G? your talking about knock volts and is precisely what AEM is all about.
Your right about the AEM approach to knock control it is based on voltage vs rpm. And yes I have actually seen in some logs where the AEM failed to pull timing when knock voltage had surpassed its threshold. You have to actually be logging Ignition Retard with AEM to see if the box pulls the timing. If you just log Ignition you will not witness this event . As it basically only shows you what ignition degree you would be putting into the motor if there is no knock present
so is anyone here capable of tuning my car for any cheaper? or is it worth it to have nate check the car over and tune it
I may be able to help you , Not me personally but Danl above and his friend Travis are very capable with the stock ECU Dan lives a bit away but Travis lives in the North Hills I believe.
You should PM Danl and see if he can connect ya.
You dont need another full on dyno tune it just needs adjusted some.
thats why i hate to pay 500 for getting this tune worked out, i pm’d him if you talk to him tell him to get in contact with me if you could, i want to get this all worked out this weekend if possible
Will do
alot of good ideas, I just wanted to remind you guys that slater already has a project car and just shelled out all this money for the evo. he wants it to just drive safe and be a little fun with the current setup, the only real answer is retune it with a better and mild tune at this time, unless he has other ideas, i may be wrong
500 for a tune or… how much for a new motor? hmm
steve is correct, and ya i hate to bitch about 500 for a tune, but when i just shelled out 22k for the evo, about 11k for the 35r del sol, and 9k for the bmw this year, i think 500 is a little steep for a car that has a tune on it , just needs re-worked, sorry to sound like a whiny bitch but i am a little upset that i have to pay that kinda money to get it running right, but i only have myself to blame for buying a car with a shit tune on it
Dump the meth and get a practical tune if its a daily driver.
:stupid: