That is what I meant by cooling system. The heatsinks are the primary means of cooling and the new design they have been using in refurbs and warranty exchanges has an average of 10 - 15 degrees cooler.
jph - The newer boxes bought in the past few months will be of better build quality and could use the newer, cooler CPU. The GPU is the primary cause of overheating though. The only way to tell before you buy it is to check the wattage rating on the UPC sticker. I can’t remember off hand what the hi/low values for that is.
Mine froze for like 2 months before mine finally RRoD, so I would say yes its getting ready to go, but from what I understand they wont replace until you get the RRoD, so keep on hammering out.
The wattage on the box is not a proper way to identify a falcon chipset.
The falcon’s PSU is 175W, while the older box is 203W… there have been people that bought a box that said 203W on it, and had a 175W power supply, and vice versa.
That 10-15 is in F of course, and i HIGHLY doubt it, if you have actually seen the addon GPU in person, there is no way it had THAT big of an impact.
so is it worth me having the Intercooler on mine, cuz i got it with my 360 when i bought it on ebay…Also will they still cover it on warrenty if it goes since i bought it off ebay ?
it’s not going to hurt anything, but they are not really worth paying the extra money for, might as well just leave it there…
They extended the 360 warranty to 3 years for all console’s the only thing you need is a serial number and for the silver microsoft sticker to still be intact behind the faceplate…
just call now so you can get the box they ship you. Gates was having problems with his xbox awhile ago. Called tech support said if it was not RRoD they wouldn’t cover it… So he covered his xbox in blankets and left it on for 3 days… Shazam.
mine was past warranty, and they fix it for free. they told me they will always fix the red light for free because it is a safety recall. i just got mine back 2 weeks ago. they also send you a xbox live card to cover the time you can’t use xbox live
The problem isn’t the stress from the clamps it’s the solder joints being shitty cold solder joints, they don’t so much crack as they just were not good to begin with. They also added thermal transfer pads to the bottom of the memory units and the 2 under the GPU heat sink, which I always add when I fix them.
What pisses me off is when some idiot goes and does the xclamp fix mod then lets it overheat to reset solder joints but they pulled the heat sink so tight against the board it warps it and the diods and resisters pop off. The x clamps work perfectly fine if the solder connections are set properly.
One of mine I have added talismoon fans that run at 12v and the thermal probe still registers 112 degrees when playing a game on the CPU. The one I added a 60mm fan to the top of the case right in front of the CPU does a better job of cooling the xbox with that one fan than the 2 60mm with the tunnel. These things are very poorly designed when it comes to heat removal.
I’ve got 7 of them at my house right now I paid no more than 60 bux for them.
It won’t stay on for 3 days, it will overheat and shut off the CPU/GPU power after 2.5min of that…and that’s a good way to damage the crap out of things.
I have replaced quite a few X-Clamps for friends and have never had an issues with Diodes or Resistors popping off, and all the boxes are still running strong.
Nor have i heard anything about diodes or resistors popping off on the xbox-scene forums.
I said NOOBS. Unless you’re thinking you fall in that category then I wasnt’ talking about you.
They don’t actually fly off, it pulls the traces from the board, I’ve gotten 4 or 5 of them off ebay that people have tried to fix and this is what happened.
xbox-scene is for losers, if you need a forum to tell you how to fix something you shouldnt be touching electronics.