I’ll have to see what my dad thinks, he doesn’t want me to get one at all but I think I can talk him into this one.
any idea on HP?
he’s not looking for extreme. and if gm’s numbers are inflated, both of the motors numbers are inflated. meaning it’s a even comparison.
i’m gonna say ballpark 360, maybe a bit more. it’s a very mild build. drop a hot cam or equal cam in and should make atleast 400hp.
similar motors with a cam in them are making 400+hp with 9.1:1 comp. i’m closer to 9.75. still runs on 87 octane
the variables are different. from the two examples you gave.
here taken off afr site. 30 hp differece from same motors. are now gonna say afr heads are junk too?
480 HP
383ci
AFR Street 180 Aluminum Cylinder Heads
9.5
Holley 0-4779 750 cfm
MSD Distributor 36° Timing
Comp Cams 12-432-8 Hyd Roller Cam
1 3/4 Headers
93 Octane Pump Gas
Engine built and dyno tested by America
450 HP
355ci
AFR Street 180 Cylinder Heads
9.5
Holley 0-4779 750 cfm
MSD Distributor 36° Timing
Comp Cams 12-432-8 Hyd Roller
1 5/8" Headers
93 Octane Pump Gas
Engine built and dyno tested by AF
no not at all but CAN YOU READ 350 not 355!!!???!!!
What comic book are you reading, stating that a 383 make that much more hp than a 350? Maybe a little more hp but the bigger difference is in the torque. Not enough that you need bigger heads between the two.
I guess the same one u r seeing as you seem to think a 350 is just as good as a 383, My argument wasnt just for HP, but for TQ aswell, guess you can prove to me that the 350 build makes more then the 383,
whats all in your LT1?
who has a lt1? not me?
Never claimed that the 350 was more. Just bringing you back to earth. You claim a huge difference between the two, but sorry thats not the case. Maybe you can quote something from hot rod magazine to prove me wrong.
not me either
ok, subtract another 5-10 hp.
it’ still in the 20-50 range i stated way back near the beginning.
Back to the original question. It depends on how much you want to spend. Sure the 383 will make a little more power, but for the price, the offer that eurodad has will be very tough to beat.
sorry misread lt1 roller cam,
Ultimately a a properly built 383 has a higher horsepower potential than a 350, you just have to pick all the right components and get the tuning right.
A well built 350 will almost always beat poorly built 383.
Basically what’s good for the 350 is also good for the 383. What happens most of the time though is that people just run out of money. They spend a fortune on the bottom end and can’t afford good heads / exhaust. In the end they make disappointing numbers. A 350 built on the same budget may well make more horsepower because it has really good heads / exhaust. Combining the two requires a lot more money but can produce some very impressive results.(383)
IMHO it’s all about the money.
Like I said for 360hp tq(?), seems like a good deal.
awaiting Orr89rocz’s page long reply. 
I bet it’s getting typed out as we speak.
for most guys running a 383 is just for the bragging rights, I’ve seen too many guys spend all their money on the shortblock and not have enough for the the heads. Then they go and dyno 300rwhp and wonder what the fuck is up. If your going to build one build it right and make 600, but be prepared to pay way more than your car is worth
get eurodads, be done with it, u want a lil more, put in the lt4 hot cam or cc305, that motor is a great deal for 800
haha you guys know me too well… but i’ll keep it short and simple. i didnt see this thread till now. and i love it
i’m gonna say ballpark 360, maybe a bit more. it’s a very mild build. drop a hot cam or equal cam in and should make atleast 400hp.
similar motors with a cam in them are making 400+hp with 9.1:1 comp. i’m closer to 9.75. still runs on 87 octane
agreed…his motor ran very well in that big truck. full bolt on LT1 cars are making in the neighborhood of 320whp…thats close to 400hp on motor. with head work, it may get abit more power. LT1 cam tho is very mild… i wouldnt keep it. i’d go for a LT4 hotcam for more street/strip power. very capable of making 400hp easy on those vortec heads that Eurodad has. ZZ4 435 motor makes 435 with basically a hotcam. i forget other specs, but i believe that motor was still running L98 aluminum heads…which dont flow as good as vortecs.
In all honesty, if your looking to build somewhat a budget motor for now, its hard to beat Eurodads longblock.
Are you deciding to stay with carb? or keep EFI? EFI is nice but has alot more to deal with. I’d stay away from TPI if you want a decent horsepower motor. IF you want EFI, i’d go for holley stealth ram setup. I wish i would have done that and still might go that way.
As far as 350 vs 383…i’d go 383 for several reasons… they make more power with bigger cubes. they make good torque. and the simple fact that the rotating assemblies in MOST cases are the same price as similar 350’s. Thats extra cubes for same price.
Downfall is you need to spend more money at the machine shop to have the 350 block clearanced for the longer 3.75 stroke.
383 will want better heads to feed the air. the larger cubes wants more cam as well. a good street 383 will easily make 450hp. The build i had planned for a few years now should make 500 on motor or damn close to it, reving to around 6200rpms.
350’s can make 450hp as well and be streetable. but i’d say a 450-460hp 350 is as high as you’d want to go and be streetable with good manners. a 383 with its extra cubes will make a solid 40-50hp more and will act the same on the street as that 350. a good street strip motor will make around 1.3 hp per cube. Wilder combos can see 1.5 hp per cube.
short and simple :bowrofl: :bowrofl: :bowrofl: