thats the quick abridged version, i can rattle off combos all day 
:hsugh: :idb:
if going to buld a stroker just start off with big block
will be cheaper in the long run.
but if keeping low buck street setup use 350. they will run great. build it around 3-350hp reliably and still drive it everyday and is a blast to drive.
how is a big block cheaper? heads alone for those things are near twice as much as a small block
bore and stoke a smallblock to 454 and add heads with similar specs as a big block and see what happens.
I always thought these were the best deal around for a starting pointā¦
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=18295
horsepower numbers could be similar but advantage big block with its bigger heads (ie, chambers and runner dimensions) . it will make more torque to by the same reasoning. i believe i seen comparoās like thatā¦ they might be able to hang with hp numbers but never match the big blocks torque curves. and its hard to get a small block head to flow like big bigblock headsā¦ some of those bigblock heads flow 350-380cfmā¦i never seen a small block 23 degree head flow more than 330 or so. AFRās best right now i think is 320.
not bad but the one problem i see with GMās 383ās is that they use a 3.80 inch strokeā¦forged crank so its strong but it also costs near 1100 bucksā¦ thats why that crate motor is so expensive. it has extra 1000 bucks in a crank that you dont need. you can get a forged crank for 600-700 bucks that will handle as much power, and use common sized pistons and rods designed for a 3.75 inch stroke instead of the 3.80. but the motor doesnt have forged rods or pistonsā¦so those will go way before the crank ever does. i always hear ppl breakin rods/pistons but never cranksā¦even on cast cranks. they should knock off 500-700 bucks off that crate motor.
why do you need to buy heads if you get good ones right off the bat. the iron oval ports will outflow almost ny small block heads. as long as they are nnot peanut port heads, any ironhead will flow great.
just save your money and buy a nitrous kit like a two stage that goes to 400 hp thats all you need:eek2:
:bowrofl: :bowrofl: :bowrofl: :bowrofl: :bigthumb:
Actually, if you put in a set of forged H beam 3.75 rods in with blower pistons, you have a good forged rotating assy. Thatās what angle I was thinking of mostly. A stout all motor setup, then you can go with like a 144ci blower and some forged pistons and rods after a while for only a few thousand more. And then itās a whole new ballgameā¦would 700 hp not be out of the question on that setup due to the extremely low non-boost compression and potential for massive drive pulley size reduction?
why do you need to buy heads if you get good ones right off the bat. the iron oval ports will outflow almost ny small block heads. as long as they are nnot peanut port heads, any ironhead will flow great.
thats what i was thinkingā¦the stock heads must flow decent enoughā¦but to get some serious power. i was lookin up some figures on big block heads and it does seem they flow a good amount. the exhaust ports could be cleaned up, but its not much work. larger valves and a mild port/bowl job on the heads and your gonna be making some great numbers.
i guess you dont need heads until you want to make some great power or trying to save weight and go aluminum
i hear what your saying and its a good. but if your going that route, why buy a crate motor that is assembled with forged expensive crank, but not forged pistons and rods? especially if you plan to change them out for a boosted motor. Iād look into having a custom blower bottom end made up or buy one from other companies that produce crate motors. you can get forged assemblies for 1800-2000 bucks or soā¦GMās crank alone is 1100. good rods and pistons will net you nearly a grand or so. you could save money by using conventional 3.75inch strokes from other companies and still hold up to anything you could throw at it, for the most part
and iām not sure if that 144 blower would make 700 hp on motorā¦ iād step up to the larger 177 blower (i think thats it) but even so iām still thinking thats pushing it. a strong 383 will need around 12-15psi to make 700hpā¦ not sure if that little blower is capable of driving that much boost
there was a article in the november 2004 car craft. it was a big block vs. smallblock. they used a bbc454, and a sbc 454. both ran the same brand of heads . they tried to make all the variables the same. . guess which made more hp and torque. they said most likely due to higher port velocities of the small block.
the mag is in front of me. stop over iāll give it to ya
you guys waste to much money!
there was a article in the november 2004 car craft. it was a big block vs. smallblock. they used a bbc454, and a sbc 454. both ran the same brand of heads . they tried to make all the variables the same. . guess which made more hp and torque. they said most likely due to higher port velocities of the small block
that might be the mag i was thinkin ofā¦ i knew of a comparo but wasnt sure of what. Iād like to check out that article sometimeā¦iāll have to check my magazine stacks to make sure i dont have that article alreadyā¦i used to get car craft.
I thought i seen tests that show the big blocks making more torque while similar power numbersā¦ i think the small blocks need more cam to make the same power as a big blockā¦but again, iām not sure.
the test showed more power and torque all through the powerwand. duration was higher on the bbc cam, but lift was almost the same. the bbc had a lift advantage since it has 1.7 rockers and the sbc had 1.6.
very niceā¦sounds like port velocity did its thing. small block must have been flowing more air
which one sounded better? 