7.19.05 Lancaster - New Times

NYSpeed Automotive
1

I managed to get 3 time trials and 2 runs in before being eliminated…

I have improved my RT, although it still needs more work to be more consistant.

I have also improved, and stayed fairly consistant with my ET’s.

Time Trials:

#1
RT - 1.02
60ft - 2.36
ET - 10.78@ 63.73

#2
RT - .84
60ft - 2.35
ET - 10.72@ 64.12

#3
RT - .93
60ft - 2.33
ET - 10.74 @ 64.55
(This kid had an older formula, and ran [email=“12.78@48.54”]12.78@48.54 …I feel great about my car after running him)

Amateur Class
#1
RT - .62
60ft - 2.41
ET - 10.83@ 64.64

#2
RT - .69
60ft - 2.42
ET - 10.88@ 64.74

I lost traction, and had a little wheel hop, which played a big part in my elimination.

It was yet another damn good night though.

I shall be there next week :headbang:

2

I see the 60 fts are improving and thats good. Keep at it you will get better each week out :tup:

3

yea keep at it, I wish I could spend a night at the track like this…stupid work

4

87FoxGT… I noticed tonight my runs in Amateur class with the .62 and .69 RT had 60ft times of 2.41 and 2.42.

And my time trials, I ran the better 60ft times, and slower RT…

Could this be because I’m staging too far?

Thanks slow84ta, I’m sure you’ll get some time to head out there… even when I wasn’t racing, I still had a good time…

Any chances you can switch schedules with someone at work to allow you to have the days off that you want? That’s what I did, but I gave up my weekends.

5

yea I could but if I’m gonna do that, I rather do it for the 1/4 mile…

6

deep stage is the way to go, drop that RT, with more practice.

7

I heard that raises 60ft times because you don’t have a few extra inches to get the car rolling first…

So I’ll either have one or the other, and not both?

8

what tire pressure were you at this time

9

I honestly didn’t check the pressure, I left it the way it was, and focused more on my launch and RT.

Next week, I plan on dropping the front pressure and raising the rear.

By looking at the tires, my front pressure was a little lower than the rears, but not much… I’d guess approx. 34/38 f/r

But as it sits, I think I ran about as good as I possibly can, within a 1/10th or so.

10

R/T has nothing to do with the time trials so don’t worry about it too much until the elims come. I know that sounds tupid, but don’t fret over a bad R/T when you are trying to get times to dial in with. Worry more about cutting that 60’ time. One tenth down low is multiple top end man. Keep at it. I can’t wait until I can make it up to either Lancaster or Leicester with the 5 speed and get soem quality launching practice in. :slight_smile:

11

drop those pressures…u said ur at 40psi right? try 30psi and go from there

12

You definitly want to adjust your air pressure. Make sure you bring a good guage, and also a small portable compressor or tank. You don’t want to accidentally take out too much air, and then have no way of putting more in. Always practice your R.T’s, even in time trials. Try to stage first, that gives you an extra few seconds to focus on the tree.

13

yeah 40 psi is high , u should run at least 30 for the track and 32-35 on the street

just dont go very low , street tires are not made to run on low presure like drag slicks, if u run to low u may run itno traction probs

shallow staging is so u can jump the light quicker and get out teh hole faster , kinda like ur already going b4 the light changes, plus it doent matter the time doesnt start till u pass the line, so shallow staging increasing ur 60ft? i really dont think it matters

14

You mean deep staging?

15

whatever lol :noob:

16

Shallow staging would be like, stopping just as you trip the stage lights, and deep staging would be stopping just as the pre stage lights go out, right?

The guy at the track told the First timers last week, the best staging is to stop just as the stage lights come on, and to do that all the time so your launches are consistant.

He also said, that way, when you leave on the last yellow, the car is already in motion, giving you a better chance of close to .500 RT’s.

17

For starters, deep staging is when you stage so far that the pre-stage bulb goes out. This is useful if you have a very slow reacting car, or if your reaction times are CONSISTENTLY bad. For example, if you constantly are cutting lights in the .700-.800 range or worse you may want to deep stage. the only catch is that you must react the exact same way off of the tree that you have been doing all along. If you’ve been reacting on the same bulb for a while, it’s easier to change your car setup to alter your reaction time than it is to change which bulb you are reacting on, hence the idea for delay boxes, etc…