Post some Free power mods, or tips for the Track to Squeeze out that higher Trap/lower ET.
I’d like this thread to be VERY helpful to everyone for the upcoming season, no matter the make/model of the car. All tips are welcome due to the diversity of cars on the board.
BlkP42E 1. Ice down manifold between runs. 2. Don’t have alot of gas in the tank. 3. Turn off all accessories (ex. A/C, Radio,etc…) 4. not 100% but i heard doing a burnout on street tires doesnt help at all 5. Know where your car makes it’s power till. Alot of people think the car MAKES power until the redline. not true. My HP peaks at 5800RPM and my redline is 6000, so after 5800RPM, i acctaully begin to lose power in that gear.
#1 - Icing down the manifold can upset some cars. A little bit helps my neon, but because the manifold is connected to the thermostat housing, you can over-cool it and the PCM runs rich because the temp sensor reads cold. Not really the case on most of the V8 iron. For the turbo guys, spraying/icing the intercooler has a similar effect.
#2 - On that note, don’t have a ton of stuff in the car. That spare tire / case of soda / toolbox / whatever isn’t helping you.
#3 - I don’t think you’d really measure a difference with the radio on or off. If you A/C compressor doesn’t kick off at full throttle, turning it off sure helps.
#4 - Depends on your tires.
#5 - If your HP is peaking at 5800, shifting at at least 6000 if not higher makes sense. If you shift right at the HP peak, you’re giving up the mechanical advantage that the tranny gives you. For example: on just about every car, 1st gear will always out accelerate second gear at the same speed due to the huge difference in gearing; so holding out 1st gear until you almost find the rev limit usually gets the car accelerating faster. In higher gears, this isin’t always the case though.
icing the intake by the time u start your car and drive it down the staging lane and do a burnout your already at hot ass temps so its kinda pointless.
street tires do likea lil burnout my cheap kumho;s liked to get hotter and pulled 1.87’s
wax on the rear fender or front will help take rubber off easier at the end of the day.
theres more but most is common sense
icing down intake is very important. the cooler the inlet air the more dense it is and of course the more power you will make. if you hot lap the car after each run you can get heat soak and lose power.
street tires mostly start to glaze over when you heat them up to much. a quick clean off is all you need.
shifting a few rpms higher then max hp is where you want to shift cause of how long it takes to shift. see an auto doesnt take as long as a stick does.
now Pam or cerramwrap on quarters help to remove rubber also.
not always right. the higher I launched my car all motor the better 60ft and times I pulled…traction is based on clutch not RPM. it depends on the tree but 3rd yellow is usually the way to go.
also on Drag radials heat them till you see a little smoke. they are engineered to be heated for best performance
I noticed i picked up MPH and lowered ET’s by power shifting. Meaning, keep the gas pedal pegged to floor while shifting gears. This seems to work ecspecially well for turbo cars. If youre scared to grenade your tranny, this may not be the best idea for you. Sorry DSM owners.
not always right. the higher I launched my car all motor the better 60ft and times I pulled…traction is based on clutch not RPM. it depends on the tree but 3rd yellow is usually the way to go.
That is true, but I see a lot of guys revving and then dumping the clutch.
For consistency, try to stage at the same point in the beams so you can time the light the same each run. I like to barely light the 2nd staging light, and get that rhythm where I punch it a fraction of a second after the third yellow.
my staging secret… a good number of races are won at the lights! For the best overall run you can possibly give your car, here is what you do.
Light the pre-stage light as usuall. STOP. get your head straight, go through the run in your head (I have to deal with delay box, releasing transbrake and slight steering compensation out of the hole). Normally though, get your rpm that you want to launch at practiced and also ‘how’ you let your clutch out. This is what testntune is for…hopefully most people have this figured out.
Don’t worry about taking too much time at the pre-stage light, you “won’t look cooler” if you hurry up and stage the car…you’ll most likely look like a dumbass.
Once you are calmed down and ready, here is what you do. EVER-so-slowly inch your car forward. The key here is to “tickle” the stage lights so they just stay on. What this does is put your car in the furthest most point from the green light. What this is important for is to give your car the biggest head start on the tree as possible. This also means that you’ll have to learn to leave VERY early on the 3rd yellow, usually just as it lights.
Getting a jump on the tree is the best possible way to begin to get your car into the fastest times possible. Some people like to “deep-stage” where they actually turn the pre-stage light off leaving only the stage light on. Some say this is good b/c it puts you physically ahead at the tree so you can have that much less of a distance to travel. This usually is false. If you watch professional drag racing, you will often see people tickling the stage light to get the best head-start.