'93 del sol si Tachometer jumping around

IM PISSED, im taking my car to the track tonight for the first time since I have installed my turbo setup and on the way home from work last night i was bangin through the gears a bit and while i was doing this i kept hitting my ignition cut form my msd ignition because i had no damn clue what rpm i was at. my tach reads fine up to about 4000 rpm then it will ump to spots on the rest of the way up… like this 3999,4000,4001… 5000, 5400, 6000, 6200… and so on, its smooth until 4 grand. WHY? and YES i have searched all over and nowhere really answered my specific question. but i have found that some peoples tachs dont move at all due to something in the cluster actually getting stuck… could my cluster be on the way to getting stuck?

im gonna pull it out today and try to figure it out before i head to the track, if i cant i guess ill buy a gay ass tach to put on my dash and then maybe return it. who knows.

ANY IDEAS???

try an aftermaket tach off the blue tach test wire against the firewall in the corner, if it still does it, then it coudl be an ignition module going bad. u have a dizzy to try swapping real quick?

I second the tach port under the hood, test it with a multimeter and see if the voltage change is smooth through the rpm range. When was the last time you did dist/cap/rotor?

BTW, I didn’t get a chance to check out your sol, I was just pulling out when you got to the BBQ. I gawked, but only for a sec. I love your car.

my tach did this after my swap, turned out to be a losse wire at the dizzy,

I third the test diagnostic tach wire as suggested and the multimeter readings for that should transition smoothly from base to highest rpm voltage. Set the range to DC 20 volts (or whatever is closest to the range, but not less than 10-12 volts).

gratituitous H-T thread: They’re splicing into the diz harness. You can splice into the test connector up by driver’s side firewall, it’s easier and safer, IMO.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1980843&postid=27861768

and hoon-tech thread: they use the “correct” connection, IMO.

http://www.hoon.tk/tech_tips/tacho.html

well, the cap is about 2k old, the rotor, wires coil and msd 6al all the same. the distributor is the one that came on the engine, im assuming its the original that honda put on the thing in japan, if so it has about 50xxx miles on it. (its a jdm b18c) and no i dont have another dist.

im gonna go try testing with the multimeter. see what it says.

If it reads ok then whats the problem?

and yea dyingwish, i was hoping to see the teg, just missed it i’ll have to see it somewhere someday.

dizzy is probably fine, unless the brushes are shot…doubt it with that mileage.

I would start looking for loose connections, and intermittant ground outs near the distibutor. I’m assuming it’s tuned right? Any hiccups on the power curve, indicating possible misfiring, wire jiggling…etc? Peep the wiring situation and report back.

k…ummmm it wont do it in my driveway, soooo… i dont know i rev it and nothing jumps on the meter or the guage… it is idling at 10v and works its way to 5v at redline, but all fine, now if i take the car out and even just rev while the car is moving not in gear it will do it… wtf is up with this. im a bit lost. i think im gonna wire my muitimeter and go drive it with the meter in the car where i can see it while i drive… ill report back soon. Any more ideas?

and yea after i do that im looking into my distributor where my wiring is for the external coil, and looking over my wiring harness.

oh yea, no hiccups as far as i can tell, its tuned great

ok i just took it out, Shes a damn monster, no hiccups at all. now as for the tach, it jumped once at first, but i didn’t see anything funny on the multi-meter (which i ever so nicely rigged with zipties to the windshield wipers so i could see it. anyways still reading smoothly from 10-4 volts now it wont do anything on the tach at all, everything is just fine… i dont know what to think, my car is haunted i guess who knows. i guess it has to be a bad connection somewhere between the tach and the signal wire.

Playing with connectors has been known to make things work. I’d disconnect and look for corrosion.

its always good to double and triple check grounds

yea true!!

Cluster?

I had a problem with the tach and speedo. 10mm ground under the intake manifold was loose. 1/4 turn to tighten it and it was fine.

yea its definitely something dumb like that… it was fine the whole way to Pittsburgh raceway park tonight and there and back… so im not too worried about it, if it starts again ill look around for a ground.

what did it run!?#!@#>%@#$^?<@

It wasnt what i had hoped… but i havnt been to the track in a year either. with better driving i would imagine a better time…
r/t .690
60’ 2.175
330’ 5.829
1/8 8.755 @ 85.19
1000’ 11.225
1/4 13.320 @ 108.06

need to brush up on the tree a bit, and traction is a big problem.
ill try to get the video posted somewhere of my first run 13.550 @107.15 (only run i have a video of) that was against a 6 speed Trans Am RamAir

Are you the sol that I raced on the way home from PRP on 70?
I drive a black integra.

HAHA, yea that was me, i was hoping to find you on here, i was very curious who i was racing, That thing is damn quick… were you at the track? and what setup are you runnin(well the sum of it), i think i had more fun on the way home from the track than there, but thats due to rain delays and a damn firebird (i think) breaking on the track. But anyways, Nice ass integra!

my frind who just came to the track to watch drove his old altima with all our tools and 3 people in it and it was hilarious they raced a guy in a broken exhause euro lumina and it was hard to tell, but pulled on him, it was just an eventful night.

Ya I was at the track. I think I seen you today around 4:30 going down river road in Dravosburg.

I seen you guys got off on 51 I was on E so I had to stop to get gas. I will say hi when I se you at the track next time. Whats your setup?