Yes I know this is a nissan forum but I posted this on an integra forum and nobody had anything to say. Okay my rear is making a squealling sound at low speeds 30-50kms, not when I’m braking, only when I’m actually driving. I sprayed brake cleaner on my rear rotors and the sound went away for about a day, then came back. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.
If it went away for a day when you did that, take sandpaper and rub your brake pads in a circular motion on the sandpaper until you see all the “dark” go away and see that clean grey color emerge. Dirt get embedded in the pad sometimes and will cause that. Also spray some more brake clean on your rotors. Clean those off too. If you wanted to go farther, you could get some “brake quiet”. It comes as a spray or a bottle you squeeze from. Anyways, put a light coat of that on the BACK of the pad, NOT the friction surface!!! Let it dry, then reinstall the pads. If you’ve went this far, you could also pull the slide pins out of the caliper (if equipped) and grease them with “Kopper Koat” or another type of BRAKE LUBE. Brake lube is made to stand high temps, don’t use multi purpose grease… Then take the metal slides out of the caliper bracket and clean them off with sandpaper, get the dirt and rust off it. All that will keep everything moving properly and quietly.
What kind of condition are your pads in anyways? No cracks, pad isn’t seperating from the backing, it isn’t crumbling on the edges, etc? Let us know…
It’s not a U-joint?? Or the drive shaft… I kinda had a similar prob on my Supra…
If it’s doin it at low speeds it could be that your rotors are warped try spinning your rotors and if it moves freely but sticks in couple of places then you have warped rotors and that could be your main problem
You guys are awesome, apexi, when is your car gonna be finished? I’ll try all of that stuff, and get back to you guys.
He said it was an Integra, so it’s FWD. They have CV joints or also called half shafts. But anyways, if a CV joint went, you’d only hear it on turns…
Not for another year yet. I’m rebuilding my SR20 so it’s on an engine stand in my garage. Plus I want to do a few conversions and heavy mods 
If they were warped, he’d feel a vibration while braking, especially from higher speeds. Even worse, they could be so warped your car will shutter and your brake pedal will thump.
When I do a brake job at home, I just replace the rotors and be done with it. But then again, rotors for me are only $17 a piece, or you can take them into a shop to be machined. When they spin it on the lathe, they’d be able to tell you if it was warped or not.
does an integra use its rear brakes, when normal braking or only during ebrake? I’m 100% sure it is coming from the rear. Anyways could it be a seized brake caliper?
Rear brakes come into effect in both conditions. But, they only take about 10% of your braking, your fronts take 90%. Are they a drum or rotor setup on the rear? If you had a seized brake caliper (providing you rear brakes are disc because drums don’t use calipers), you’d notice the rotor would start rusting or getting a different color to it which means the pads aren’t able to contact the rotor so the rotor rusts, etc. You’d also notice a pull when you stepped on the brakes because one side is applying the brakes, and the other side isn’t, so it will favor the side that is braking.
what if it is seized closed? because the squeal is only happening when at low speeds and not when I’m stopping.
It would still pull because your other side isn’t stuck, so there is more pressure on the side that isn’t stuck so naturally, the car will favor the strongest side. You’ll also notice the pads on that side wearing down faster. If their working properly, you should see even wear patterns or VERY similiar on both sides. One thing you can do it pull the caliper off and try pushing the piston in. If it doesn’t go in at all or it takes excessive amounts of effort, then it’s seized or starting to seize. Also, take a small screwdriver and lift up the boot on the caliper where it meets the piston. If brake fluid comes out, your caliper is no good. If it’s nice and dry, it’s all good 
Dirty pads can come at anytime. Some more then others, some at different speeds, some for different distances, etc. I asked before, do your brake pads appear to have enough there? Are there any physical defects like cracks, pad seperating from the backing, pad crumbling along the sides, etc? I need info on the condition of the pads and rotors. Usually the rule of thumb is if the pad is smaller then the metal backing, the pad is worn out and should be replaced.