accidental over rev

did you get a timing reading at all? i still say burt valve(s). it could be timing, but it would be the same all the way up through the rpm’s, not just majicly go away after 4k. so i’d rule out timing.

Injectors…if it was fine, then over revving it due to a downshift, the injectors wouldn’t even be firing. kinda leaning away from that too…

…think about it. Closed throttle (at least at one point), very high rpms, = no fuel in the cylinders. if he was at the end of third, then there must be some temperature in that motor fur sure, shut the fuel off…rev it to kingdom come, get them exhaust valves almost glowin red…ya, im going to lean tward a burnt vavle.

put the silly timing light away and get your compression tester out (dont have one, autozone rents em, or find a buddy with one…or i’d even lend you mine). Run compression, if you dont have a goofy cyl, then we’ll go the timing route or whatever. Good luck man…let us know what you get.

you’re teh smart :hs:

if you need a compression tester i have one and i am right up the road

thanks for the offer but im gonna run over to my neighbors and borrow his! :wink:

x 2
or bent it

ok so i didnt get to checkin the compression today because my neighbor wasnt around but say it was a burnt or bent valve. when i replace them what would be the pros of replacing them with better quality rods and should i replace the valve springs too? also wouldnt it enable teh car to REV higher safely?

dont know if this is pushrod or overhead cam engine. (not down with the jap stuff) but on my pushroad engine i would change all the springs with the valves and go with some nice valvesprings also. it keeps away from valve float and that is good to stay away from. then youll beable to rev higher and all.

dont know about the pros or cons but i would change all valves and springs.

If it was your own personal car that needs to last you a while, then like he said, i’d change them all…do it right.

if you just need it to run to get you around b/f you do the SR swap, then just change what needs changed. …IF this is the prob, who knows still

why were you letting someone that can’t drive a stick rev to redline. personally I think it sounds like a cracked ring land. cause no fuel+high revs=heat=detonation

the kid that was driving was fine with a 5 spd just not very experienced, i know that its my fault it happened.

im lookin at a SR swap in the future so i was thinking of buying some junkyard parts or a full junkyard engines because KA are very easy to come by from what ive heard!

call jay he may have a old KA laying up at the shop…I don’t think he does but you never know

bend valve or collapesed valve spring

eyah i’d go for the bent valve, you probalby floated one and it smacked a cyl…specailly on that old valvetrain your valve springs aren’t up to par

if it bent, it would be burning oil. if it was a bad valve spring, then it would float sooner and start missing at the top end, not clear up after 4k.

did u ever do the compression test?

ok i know this is an old thread but after all this time i finally figured out the problem! about 45 minutes ago i just replaced all 4 injectors and started the car up. i knew instantly that the injectors was the problem because i revved it up a little and when the car settled to an idle the engine was smooth as can be! thanks again for all your help guys! im so happy to finally have the car right again!

congrats!

:bigok: nice!

no rev limiters in the 240s?

ya the rev limiter is at a little over 6k but he was doing about 60 mph when he shifted to 2nd instead of 4th then the speed of the wheels took the engine to like 9k when he let go of teh clutch!

ahh ok, it sounded more like he took his upshift into an over rev, which is what confused me