I bought a set of bings RUCA’s to get rid of my negative camber isssue. When I was removing the stock arms, I had to cut the one of the bolts holding it to the subframe, while the second one broke off. So I replaced them with some hardware store ones and bolted everything up. When I was adjusting the threaded part of the rod ends that allow you to adjust camber accordingly with the car off the ground I zeroed out the camber to see where it would sit when the car is on the ground. The threaded part of the rod ends is 1.75" long and I have it unscrewed 1.25" so there is still half an inch left but I dont want them to be holding by a quarter of a thread. My problem is that I still have the same amount of negative camber I did when I had the stockers on. The car isnt that low, I can fit 2 fingers between the tire and the quarter panel. Any ideas on what can fix my problem.
And I understand that the stock bolts are special to adjust camber with the stock arms but the holes they sit in are straight accross so I dont see how itll fix the camber with aftermarket arms.
It would help a little. I messed up when I was setting the camber with the eccentric bolts, so I just compensated by equaling it out with the ruca’s. If you still had the bolts, then you could set the camber to as close to 0 as possible, and then use the ruca’s for the rest of the adjustment. What kind of ruca did you get?
honestly if I were you, I wouldn’t play around with the camber too much… you can’t really correct it that much with just the RUCA’s.
Let’s say your car is lowered 40mm and you have -1.5 degrees of camber. You can’t really put the camber back to 0 or -0.5 w/o the toe going way out of spec. To correct that you need aftermarket toe links because the stock ones don’t allow for that much adjustment.
Now for your problem
Proper way of installing the RUCA’s is to adjust the threaded part to match the length of your original control arms. The key is to make sure you have equal amount of thread on both ends (i.e. the amount of thread facing the heim joint must be the same as the thread facing the control arm).
I know it’s not much really, but that’ll give you the greatest amount of adjustment.
So when you turn the middle hex nut one way, you will pull the control arm and the heim joint closer, when you spin it the other way, you push those two away from each other.
With that you can get pretty crazy negative and positive angles, trust me.
But like I said before, correcting the camber won’t do much w/o a set of rear toe links that can be adjusted just as much.
hardware store bolts to replace bolts meant to hold your suspention together??? theres your first prob your camber is probably perfect your head is just not on straight.
before you sweat your camber I would got get some replacement bolts…
thats like using dish soap in stead of break fluid because you ran out.
Anyone have any alignments shops in Toronto they recommend? I did my suspension on saturday and have been putting it off since then. My camber doesn’t look too too out of spec though since I didn’t drop it too much and I corrected a bit with the RUCA’s
my buddies dad is the best man. his shop ahs been in business for liek 200 years lol it was his dads dad then his dads and soon his. its called dupont alignment its all by hand no neat machines its all by hand and percise. porche brings their cars there.
I guess no one really cares that you can’t correct camber with just RUCA’s…
so go ahead do you alignment so you can find out that your toe is way out of spec if you do correct the camber to like 0 or -0.5… you guys need those damn toe links to get the toe back to spec when you correct the camber…
(next time I’ll include Cliff Notes in my posts for all the kids with ADD).
Lith is right, you likely should be using the other arms as well.
hte inside bolt hole on the subframe is eccentric. there is some adjustability there. set the RUCA to stock length. install is with the inside bolt not tightened and pull it full positive. then use the adjustability in the RUCA.
Toe arm is the same thing, the subframe hole is eccentric.
if you cant get a decent camber setting with the RUCA’s there is something wrong. you should not be that far negative.
you would be the first person to ever have that problem as far as i know.
also, if your car is soooo low that you have such incredible negative camber you are going to have problems with your toe arms getting attacked by the subframe… guys running that low bust toe arms all the time.
RAWR wats a cliff notes? and what are u adding with it?
get a real alignment and dont be cheap… cheapness will end up becoming useless … get all the 3 arms please… dont get just 1 or 2… theres 3 arms for a reason… they work together hand in hand… u move one the other is no longer right… bings arms are good and his price is cheaper then name brands… so just grab them all… saving that 300$ will do u no good but more trouble
omg give me a break with the bolts I understated that part.
An alignment shop cant fix my problem because there is no adjustability left for negative camber without backing out the actual rod ends and caving the whole wheel assembly in, you dig?
Lith came up with the most educated post it seems, and I fully understand what he’s trying to say. If replacement bolts dont do the job Ill be ordering a set of toe links for sure.
I went to see my buddies at the dealership but even with my special persons discount its way overpriced for a set of nuts and bolts so I posted in the WTB section.
its way overpriced for a set of nuts and bolts so I posted in the WTB section.
