:clap
haha, yes. its a 100% legit winter fun vehicle.:thumbup
:number1:number1:number1
LOL! awd is for pussys on dry pavement.
Agreed
Pete’s car makes more power. I don’t use corn, pump gas is the only thing that’s ever been in the car. My car makes about 400whp guessing. Yours on spray has got to be close to be 500 to 550.
JK. lol
Ill finish this one up. then the next race car I build will be turbo v8 in something retarded, like a Rabbit pickup, or slot car. :rofl
vw caddy with a TT V8?:thumbup
VW Thing with LQ9 big turbz.
1 badder bug with a 76mm ls & z06 heads.
I should do the same with my car. Ha
And by LS I mean this:
half of this thread needs to be weeded out to battle field or call out thread…
i helped you put Q16 in it at Etown at the show down.:thumbup
WOOO, 1 gallon so my car wouldnt blow up being heat soaked and 95 degrees out! lol…i didnt even turn the boost up. hahaha
oh i know why you did it. but you did put race gas in it :tongue
wow you guys are fuckin rediculious.
Haha.
So last night we took a good look at the rear diff, cradle suspension arms spindles and the chassis off the jetta.
First thing thats retarded by VW is they slightly offset a bunch of shit on the back of the car. It took me a good hour to find measuring points I can use to square up the new stuff back there. If I used the lower control arm bushings up front as a point and the rear beam bushing points I have a nice square to work off of… telling me that VW wasn’t totally retarded and made an offset rear beam or something dumb.
Also to complicate things, the quattro rear suspension cradle offsets the diff 2 inches to one side because of the drive shaft output off the transmission I assume is offset? Not a big deal it just turns it into a 2 plane drive line. since it would all be statically mounted the dif and the trans the angles can be kept to a min and the length of the shaft will allow for a good cumulative drive line angle.
So as we sat there looking and shooting ideas, drawing on the white board we came up with a cool idea.
Mount the dif by itself in a custom cradle, inline with the center of the car and the expected center of the tranny output and at the expected angle for the trans output later on. (this could allays be shimmed up or down accordingly too later on).
then since I know the rear beam bushing mounts and existing rear beam correctly aligned the car and the track width was correct… we though why not reuse that!
cut the plate off where #11 bolts to. then what ever dia the new wheel hub we will machine to fit the 2 wheel bearings and a stub axle, we notch into the end of the beam…
then make a caliper mount off the beam where ever it needs to be and we are done. Get some custom length axles (audi dif flange inside and P930 outside cv’s for strength). Just like the sand rails do for trailing arm setups.
Next issue would be the drive shaft and maybe diff body (input shaft) hitting the rear beam in the middle where #1 points to in the diagram above. Once all the new wheel bearing stuff is done, jig it all up on the bench, section out the middle of the beam and make a hoop for clearance. then gusset the hoop down to the rest of the existing beam for stiffness.