haenzels 20v was one of my favorite mk2s, real nice guy too I talked to him at H20i a couple years back.
his car
I will look into the dif between supers and Ferrea. its cant be too much.
Cossey it wont be a 100% dragger, I will still do suspension and weight the car so it will handle decent too. I want the best of both but I know it cant happen. we will find out i guess.
enough planning and put up some damn pics and progress shit!
Hansel… He’s so hot right now
Fuel cell and plumbing question…
I want to put an RCI Racing 2100AS 10Gal in the car. It has 2 -8 mails at the bottom of the cell and 2 -8’s on the top. I know the feed is going out one of the bottom -8’s. Does the return go back into the other -8 on the bottom (but wouldn that casue like an eddy in the fuel flow, like a feeder creek flowing into a river), or would it dump back into the cell from one of the -8’s on the top? Or can i run both -8s at the bottom as feeds, then dump the return into one of the -8’s on the top to dump into the tank? Run each into an inline pump, then the inline pump exits into a T then one feed to the rail?
Also for the vent, what do I use for that? Just make a bulk head on the exterior of the car and plumb the -8 vent from the cell to the blukhead, then on the bulkhead put a little filter on the end?
return/vent on top. -8 feed at the bottom, with the other male -8 as a drain.
LOL @ 2k rpm powerband
what do you expect from a 4cylinder with a large turbo?? its not gonna make roots blower linear tq/power.
Why the fuck not? A BMW 4 cylinder engine can do that NA!
cool so it can just dump in from the top.
I will pick up another 255 inline and plumb both bottom ports as feeds. feeds out then into inline filters, put fo filters into pumps, out of pumps into a Y then run the one line from the Y up to the motor.
what do I put on for a vent? do they have charcol ones or something safe?
If you are using twin inline pumps be sure to use check valves.
how so? my plan is to run them side by side, each with their own feed from the tank and their own exit lines from the pump to the Y. then the Y runs to the fuel rail.
Do you only need a check valve if they went: tank - Pump 1 - Pump 2 - fuel rail?
Generally when you run 2 pumps, you put one on a micro-switch or a hobbs switch, if you run 1 at a time the pressure will bleed back into the tank through the non running pump. Unless you are running e85 and -10an line up to the regulator, I suggest running 1 pump for normal operation and 2 on demand so you don’t boil the fuel under street driving conditions.
I also would run a check valve because all the pressure bleeds back into the tank when you shut the car off without one. Priming is a whole bunch easier when the fuel rail is already under pressure.
If you plan on running both pumps at all times, at least put a check valve after the Y so you don’t have hard starting issues.
Yes, twin 044’s with check valve banjo adaptors are available. Two of those will support more than your heart desires. Walbro GS392’s have buillt in check valves and are cheaper than 044’s(~$125 each). That would be `500lph of fuel at 43psi.
check valve…just run an intank, bulkhead style rollover valve. Cheap. Run that out of the car. If you don’t feel like smelling gas vapor on a hot day, run into a canister with activated charcoal. Most RCI cell you buy will come with a rollover valve as the vent fitting on top of the tank. If not you can pick one up stupid cheap.
in all honesty i think a 6262 will be too big for you,
do a 6057 instead. just my .02
The 6057 is discontinued. I called precision 2 weeks back about it and they found that the 5857 was making just about the same power with much quicker spool. They said there went so far off from eachother that they didnt justify making it anymore.
so for billet centers you have
5557
5857
5862
6262
6265
6765
Holset HE351VE VGT with a wastegate actuator to run the vanes. That should do you just fine
gettin a little too complicated there for me. lol
AEB head bolts. are they any different than the AWP ones? Also I assume I shouldnt reuse the ARP ones I have from my prior build… right?
Some people say you can reuse head studs but I wouldnt. Specially since they are cheap enough to replace