all motor

So… you’re gonna gain atleast 30whp on a proper tune alone? Wow… you really must think Nissan are idiots then.
Why don’t you go and read over what people are actually running on N/A KA and then talk? If you could gain 50hp on top with bigger injectors, fuel pump and a tune, I assure you EVERYONE would be doing it. Fact of the matter is, without high comp and cams, you’re never gonna get over 150, doesn’t matter if you get IBM’s Deep Blue to be your ECU. And even then I’ve yet to see someone running near 200whp WITHOUT ITBs or sidedrafts. Go to FA, go to Zilvia and read up a bit. There was a guy with way more mods than you listed talking how he had 180whp and then when people asked him, turns out it was his butt dyno. When he took it to a real one? 157. The KA can’t rev for jack, the head flows poorly and the valvetrain sucks ass. You need cams, headwork and spring, retainers, etc… and high comp slugs as a minimum. A tune is very important, but tuning a stock engine will not give you almost anything, factory does a pretty damn good job at that.

Solarian don’t even bother. Some people think they know it all.

Andrew.

how so? i’m not saying i’m right or that he’s wrong. that’s why i’m asking for other people’s opinions. i’m just lost at the moment because everywhere i ask, i get a different response, and a mixed bag of info is useless. thanks andrew, smooth… real smooth.

Just a quick example to compare to - and this is 100% accurate number because I was standing there for the entire process…

Stock C5 corvette dyno ~298whp w/ Intake only.

Tuned (for only ~2 hours mind you) by the best vette tuners in the province = ~330.5whp

I highly doubt the KA could gain ~30whp from a tune alone if the vette can barely do it.

I don’t understand why people are so afraid of doing these upgrades that I list though. Click on that Zilvia link I posted, it tells you how to make your DOHC ITB using GSXR 1000 or 750 throttlebodies as well as upgrading your ignition. Apparently doesn’t even cost a lot either if you can get that gear CNC’d for you for cheap (for the ignition, not the ITB)

i’ll read up on your recommendation. i’m still researching and still nowhere near a decision, therefore discussions such as these are very useful. thank you solarian.

Hehe, np, sorry if I came off as a jerk or if I dissuaded someone from n/a. I infact want to go n/a myself so I really welcomed this discussion and got maybe a bit too into it :oops:

no prob bro. no offense taken, it happens to the best of us. :wink: like i said, i still have no idea which way i’m going. all i know is i’m still looking into every possible option before i go ahead and make concrete plans, especially since i still haven’t sorted out all of the mixed info i’ve gotten so far, therefore any knowledgable info is appreciated. once again, thanks.

I found an excellent thread on freshalloy where they discussed destroking the KA for a fairly reasonable price
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB9&Number=67348684&Forum=All_Forums&Words=destroking&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=67347847&Search=true#Post67348684

The basic idea is, you get the crank welded and offset-ground and then use rods from a big block chevy or something.

How the hell does this contribute to this good discussion?

Some people like NA engines, personally I would rather have an engine pumping out 200whp that was NA since I have power on demand. Driving both NA and turbocharged I can honestly say I love NA because I can run wideopen throttle in drifts and not worry about being carefull on gas. I can punch gas and let off etc etc. I found drifting a turbocharged car requires carefull and smooth throttle modulation (of course it becomes 2nd nature with practice).

SO Toronto240sx don’t post mindless BS when u have no idea WTF it is you are speaking of. There are pros and cons on any setup and it all comes down to driver. We are limited in our little 4 bangers so easiest way is to run boosted engine.

Andrew.

All arguments aside, does anyone know a good place that sells KA internals? Mainly high comp pistons like 11:1 or higher, maybe solid lifters, valves, springs, etc… ?

http://www.ka24de.com/
is the only purely KA site i know
although I think their highest comp pistons are only 10.5:1
i’m sure they’d special order for you though.

Andrew you are right, I just posted my opinion, I love NA too, I hate having to worry about turbos and shit and as for the drifting aspect turbo vs NA, yes your right it does take less effort to drift with a NA vehicle (as long as it has a good amount of HP I think), im not saying your wrong all Im saying is that I think that lets’ say you had 2 240’s and both had 250 hp. One turbo, one NA I think the NA would take more work and more money to reach that power then the turbo one would. I like NA too but I think it’s a lot more work and more money so that’s why I think Turbo is the easiest and cheapest way to go to make power. But if you have the time and money NA is a great project. Personally I don’t have the time, I hate messing with internals and I don’t want to put so much money into an engine. That’s my opinion. And like you said it all comes down to driver.

here’s the response i got from jim wolf technologies:

Hi Mark,
See our upgrades list below for info on our KA24DE specific parts. Yes, it
is very tough to get a pump fuel normally aspirated KA engine to make 200
at the wheels. That would mean you would have to have at least 225hp at
the flywheel on an engine that was rated at 155hp from the factory. The
factory KA engine does about 135 at the wheels so you would need to get
another 65-75 more hp to get your goal. Road race SCCA GT engines have
gotten to about 240hp at the flywheel but this was with race fuel and
12.5-13:1 compression ratios which is not going to be a streetable
set-up. These road race engines only make power from 4500+ and bottom end
power is very low.

I would have to recommend that you add on a turbo as just this on a stock
internal engine can easily get to 250hp with the proper external mods. A
turbo engine should have at least 9.5:1 compression ration but it is
preferable to get down to 8.5:1 compression ratio.

Best regards,
Ben Pila (Technical and Sales Support)
Jim Wolf Technology, Inc.

thanks to everyone for their advice. turbo it is…

Whos limited to a 4 banger? :slight_smile: I know I’m not…

Whos limited to a 4 banger? :slight_smile: I know I’m not…[/quote]i am, for now.

Good boy.

Rebello are putting down like 290whp on a SOHC. But Rebello >> Me*10^12 so yeah, that’s not saying much.