I would like to know what you guys think about all motor and what i can expect. Ive got headers intake exaust and 8mm wire with a performance coil. I have not got it tuned yet. But also i plan on getting a performance cam, pdm makes them. Get a big bore kit if they make one for the soch. Bigger injectors, and do they make a air intake upgrade, ive searched but came up with nothing. thanks
I considered this before I knew my options well, and I’ll be honest with you and it’s not because i’m a turbo’d whore like most everyone here… go turbo 
It’s just a better option, if you go NA you’ll make some power and it will feel and sound really nice but at a huge cost of reliablity and your wallet will hate you.
These cars just aren’t a good platform to go all motor, period. Look in to it for yourself if you want or save your time and start planning to go turbo.
There are a more than a few people that went the N/A route, some on this forum too, I know of AnDrEw and lucky off the top of my head, prolly others too.
There’s also been some very interesting things going around about it on FA and Zilvia. What seems to be the popular thing to do is de-stroking the motor and then boring it out a bit to offset the loss in displacement. I believe you need a custom crankshaft for this though, but don’t quote me on it, you might also be able to do it with shorter con-rods, I don’t know. Some head work would also be in order, and there’s always the matter of the lousy stock valvetrain.
Another option to consider is the difficult and expensive task of swapping in a VQ30DE or a VQ35DE. Both of these would be Maxima motors though, the RWD VQ doesn’t fit for some reason (this coming from the guy that put a VQ in his car, not myself). You would be using the tranny from a Z33 along with a custom driveshaft. Couple of things that came up was the flywheel and clutch mating… you need a custom throw out bearing, I also believe you need a custom oil pan. On the S13 there are some hood clearance issues depending on which intake manifold you go with, and there’s also some issues with ECU error codes, that I just don’t remember. You can look it up if you want, we have a thread in technical where I posted the link.
Oh! And you have to make your own shifter linkage, because the one that comes with the Z33 tranny causes your shifter to sit too far back.
Or you can turbo it 
OY VEY, jeez you just raped the fun out that project… I guess i’ll start buying turbo parts instead.
Hahaha… not what I wanted to do. Well, I was reading up on N/A KA some more, and here’s a link you might like:
Don’t Do it it’s Slow.
Save up do it right do it once go turbo…
i was actually thinking about this last night, and came up with this parts list.
-cams (s13)
-cam gears (aem)
-intake manifold (xcessive motorsports)
-motor/tranny mounts (xcessive or nismo, need more info)
-z32 MAF
-BikiRom
-370cc sr20 injectors
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-crank pulleys (unorthodox)
-10.5:1 pistons
-valve springs and retainers
-ss black nitrided intake/exhaust valves
-lightened flywheel
-clutch (disk, not puck, no need for puck since a) not using it for actual racing b) heard it rapes your tranny/drivetrain c) not good for a daily driver)
-exhaust headers
-high flow cat (magnaflow)
-cold air intake (aem)
-z32 big brake kit ?
-short shifter (b&m)
-sway and/or strut bars
-coilovers (tein or silkroads)
-proper tune
what kind of a hp increase would someone be looking at with this setup? i’m obviously new and i don’t have the experience needed to make the proper estimate myself, so any info would be appreciated. (currently running 130rwhp with stock motor, aftermarket intake and exhuast)
like i said, an educated estimate of the gain from this setup would be greatly appreciated, so that i can decide whether to go NA or KA-T. thanks.
Get a big 'ole shot a NAWSSS and you’re all set…
… 
lawl 
that was pretty funny, but seriously…
WHATEVER you decide to do for the LOVE OF GOD… DO IT RIGHT.
Don’t ever cut corners because saving 200 bucks now isn’t worth it when 2 months down the road you’re forking out another grand in repairs. 
Do it right, do it once.
Words of wisdom. Heed them well.
Words of wisdom. Heed them well.[/quote]
Oh shit I didn’t even notice that someone said it already… I read like 2 lines then posted a reply.
Meh, it’s just reiterating a good point. I completely agree with both of you.
Three great minds think alike.
So… question of the hour (for me at least)…
Are you up early? Or up late?
I think it’s more a matter of experience than great minds. “Don’t eff around or it comes back to haunt you”; When dealing with cars one learns these things in a hurry.
I’m up early. Been driving a buddy to work for the past couple days, so I got up at 5am.
Hijacking this thread pretty badly here…
With the one you posted, there’s no way you’ll break 160whp. With those changes I listed, you’ll likely hit about 200whp (but then again it does cost more :D) There’s a link I posted on how to install your own ITBs and a distributorless ignition.
how you figure that i’d be running 160-200rwhp with THAT setup is beyond me. with a PROPER tune, i’d be looking at 160rwhp alone! (and just for the record, i spoke to the dude at TAG when i got it dyno’d, and i’m quoting him - 50hp gain tops on the standalone with bigger injectors, fuel pump, and MAF on top of my current 130 at the wheels). anyone else have a slightly better estimate? (no offense)
my estimate is at LEAST 220-240rwhp.
“becasue it’s not a honda”
that was the ignorant answer i got, and the same one you will
bottom line, don’t waste your timeposting here about NA this or that.
with a good tune, i don’t see why 200-210 isnt reachable.
All I can say is “TURBO”
Im getting one of these for my SR.
For those who don’t know me, that’s not me in the picture. LOL
Or anyone I know lol.