Yeah I’d like to do something along those lines as well, money permitting next year. I know very little bout building up the KA24E and would like to learn. I guess u would hafta change bore and stroke, drop some high compression pistons in etc. A high compression engine would be a great project. Any idea on wut kinda HP u can get? Cause u gotta take into account, is this gonna be used as a street driven car as well, because the higher the compression the higher the HP, but the higher the octane needed to run the beast. I would like to run min 91 octane and still get close to 200 WHP. Is this possible?
yeah i figured that, but ur right, 180 WHP would be possible. Interesting stuff. Thanks for posting the stuff on those high comp. pistons. I’m gonna start doin some research 
Well, 11.5:1 may be too much or too little. There’s more to an engine’s capability to handle compression than mere static compression.
Cams, combustion chamber shape, the size of the valves all can affect combustion characteristics and dynamic compression ratios.
For example, many old-school V8s have difficulty running more than 10.5:1 on even 94 octane because the cylinder heads are poorly designed and the fact that they have only 2 very large valves creates problems in designing the head in the first place, as well as very uneven areas of dynamic compression. Having one of those giant intake valves with a very high-lift cam pressing into a domed piston can squish a small pocket of air/fuel mixture to the point where it spontaneously ignites. It won’t necessarily set off a combustion cycle prematurely but it will create a hot spot on the cylinder. Besides, it’s very difficult to ensure even fuel dispersion in the intake air with just one valve doing the work.
On the other hand, you have crazy Honda engines that manage static compression ratios in the low 12s with nothing but 92 octane.
So the KA24DE is capable of running 11.5:1 with just pump gas?
And whut would the HP be on one of those thereotecally (SP?) or unless someone has done it and has the numbers.
i’d run an SR20DE with indivdual throttle bodies, lightweight flywheel, cams, cam gears, ported and polished head, intake manifold and intake, headers, lightweight pullies, tuning and a 12.5:1 compression ratio.
that would be im guessing ~240-260flywheel HP. i think they come with something like 180hp stock. Raising the compression would really help, as would tuning.
Man even though a tough built engine im affaraid of hi compression and hi-reving engines. I had pistons blow through the heads while my dads friend slamed his car inti 3 at 9grand.
loving nimi’s dyno chart…
that really isnt asking too much from the pockets either…
does adam offer any of these services?
i remember him being able to port and polish the head.
but what about a proper reinstall of an aggressive cam and some magic to make my curve more like nimi’s?
A). I don’t know, nobody knows - that’s the point I’m making.
B). Who knows? Nobody’s built an N/A KA24DE.
No One Considers The SR20DE?
i guess 100hp / litre is too much to ask for huh? 
something that might interest you guys that i took care of from my N/A motor research days…heat transfer. This was done a honda, but should apply to an combustion engine.
Heat from the cylinder head can and usually DOES transfer back towards the intake manifold. This in turn, heats up air passing through it. Higher air temp = less dense = less hp. Solution… insulating gasket.
I quote hondata.com “… special high temperature insulating gasket which replaces the stock intake gasket. This and bypassing several heat sources significantly reduces the transfer of heat from the head to the intake and incoming air giving you up to 5% more power.”
I’ve run 11.8 compression on 2.2L 4cyl w/ 94 gas. No knocking and no detonation/misfires. A strong ingition system, colder spark plugs, a fuel rail, new fuel filter, fuel pressure gage and CLEAN injectors are things to R&R.
Also …Tuning is key…via Cam gears and AFC/Standalone ECU.
i only offer head porting…
adam
hmm… could you please go into a little further detail about the costs / benefits of this process, as well as the time involved
you supply the head dissassembled…meaning valve train out and valves out…must supply 1 intake gasket and one exhaust gasket
street port…$400…5-7% flow gains
race port …$600–7-10% flow gains…
includes port sizing and matching…short side radius and top port work, blending valve seats into walls…polishing exhaust to mirror finish…and preparing exhaust and intake for new gaskets.
i also port throttle bodies…headers…and intake manifolds…see pic
here are some pics of my work…b16 honda head…and ka24e head…i don’t have any pics of a ka24de head…
Holly big pictures Batman!
EDIT
Click on the link, I removed the /img tags since they were too huge! 
a). Yes. I’d say 11:1 is pretty safe, at least as long as you have access to Sunoco. It should theoretically work on 92 octane but if it doesn’t, you can always go 94.
b). No. Hondas turn on a dime. They balance a scale against a feather. B18C5s make at least 150whp STOCK. They can be brought up to 170 with bolt-ons, and over 200 if you do the full works. There are proven, reliable and relatively economical ways to make a powerful Type R engine. There are no such methods or guarantees for a KA.
The absolute biggest problem is that a KA will not rev. 7500 is probably as good as it gets with the crank and stroke problems. After that, I think any porting or more aggressive cams will just result in the law of diminishing returns taking firm hold. If you can’t rev, you can’t make power.
Engine power is a factor of displacement, volumetric efficiency and revs. The KA has a displacement advantage, but not nearly enough to offset the efficiency and rev problems it has.
If you really want to go N/A, get a V8. A Ford 5.0 swap would be ideal. It’s a cheap engine, parts are plentiful and cheap, it’s compact and light. Adam’s all up on the LS1, but then again Adam’s made of money.
hmmmm…
now as for making my power band look like nimi’s, is that something you are able to do or is that something i have to go elsewhere for, and if so, where would yu recommend.
a). Yes. I’d say 11:1 is pretty safe, at least as long as you have access to Sunoco. It should theoretically work on 92 octane but if it doesn’t, you can always go 94.
b). No. Hondas turn on a dime. They balance a scale against a feather. B18C5s make at least 150whp STOCK. They can be brought up to 170 with bolt-ons, and over 200 if you do the full works. There are proven, reliable and relatively economical ways to make a powerful Type R engine. There are no such methods or guarantees for a KA.
The absolute biggest problem is that a KA will not rev. 7500 is probably as good as it gets with the crank and stroke problems. After that, I think any porting or more aggressive cams will just result in the law of diminishing returns taking firm hold. If you can’t rev, you can’t make power.
Engine power is a factor of displacement, volumetric efficiency and revs. The KA has a displacement advantage, but not nearly enough to offset the efficiency and rev problems it has.
If you really want to go N/A, get a V8. A Ford 5.0 swap would be ideal. It’s a cheap engine, parts are plentiful and cheap, it’s compact and light. Adam’s all up on the LS1, but then again Adam’s made of money.[/quote]
Honda engines are great, my buddy bought a JDM B16A2 Engine (SiR) So a 1.6L and it made, bone stock, 153whp dyno tested. With intake and exhaust in a Del Sol this thing ran 14.7. :shock:
Now with either the B18C1 (GSR) or B18C5 (Type R) engines and some basic bolt on mods, or a nice supercharger, that thing will KILL at the track, put this engine in any Civic Hatch with good suspension and brakes and this car would run circles around a lot of cars.
BUT, some people like to be different, sometimes it’s more difficult but still, if someone wants to attempt to be competitive with a NA KA24 I’d love to see the results!
I really think you’re underestimating the incredible cost involved in building an N/A engine. Pistons, cams, rods, new bearings, headwork, valves, valvetrain, I can GUARANTEE you’ll need a custom header and intake manifold…
It’s cheaper to go turbo or a redtop, and you’ll get more power out of it.
I really think you’re underestimating the incredible cost involved in building an N/A engine. Pistons, cams, rods, new bearings, headwork, valves, valvetrain, I can GUARANTEE you’ll need a custom header and intake manifold…
It’s cheaper to go turbo or a redtop, and you’ll get more power out of it.[/quote]
Oh I understand, I would not do it myself, but someone with a lot of money, can do it so we can see the results!