Yeah no shit, can’t wait to hear your final out of pocket expense when it’s done with.
So today what i got accomplished…Got the motor pulled from the RSX…Need some parts for it tto be fixed ie: cracked oil pan and broken half shaft mount.
Then the dowwwwwwnnn pour happened…ARGGGHHH dont have a garage right now so that was pain in the ass. covered everything up and called it a day.
then when i got inside to look at my “BRAND NEW” Hybrid-Racing Motor Mounts…and what you think i seen…
- They arent BRAND FUCKIN NEW!!!
- They are missing Parts
- They are were definietly mounted!
- Im pissed!
Picture can tell 10000 words
you didnt buy this from a vendor did you? i would be heattteedddddddddd
i would have gone with the hasport stuff anyway heh
also, a cracked oil pan would scare the poop out of me
No it was from some guy on k20a and had good amount of vouch. he just didnt exam them before he said it was brand new.
why would a crack oil pan scare you? lol
it would of only been a dent if it was steel lol but it aluminum…so that why the crack.
Because cracks leak?
I guess it all depends on where the crack is lol. if it was on the block/head i would be scared but it was on the oil pan and half shaft mount so it wasnt to much of an alarm for me. i’ll have to check over the block to see if anything crack on the head or block. if so i wouldnt be very happy.
ehh well if you got it for a good deal then yes. Im just going on the old saying: Fast, Cheap, Reliable, You can only have 2.
And, are you sure the crack is truely a crack and not just casting flash? Its very common to have aluminum parts that look like they have hairline cracks in them but really just have fine casting imperfections in them. I would only worry if it leaks, but you could sand it down lightly and see if the “crack” dissapears. If it leaks you can smear JB weld into the crack har har har!
Its definietly a crack lol oil leaking out. I just brought a new oil pan and half shaft. So that should be here by middle next week.
And this build has all three: Decently Fast, Very Reliable and Cheap compared to what I have seen ahahah.
Everyone will be suprised when I get the total build cost together.
Those mounts are retardly overbuilt…
The cracked oil pan scares me too. Hopefully the engine wasn’t running when it cracked and out came all the oil.
It was only a hairline fracture caused by the accident. It dripped, never poured out. So it also all dependent on the crack size and how its cracked.
thats wierd. One of the things that usually happens to hondas when hit in the front, is that the driver side motor mount (Im talking most earlier hondas, A,B,D,F series) that is bolted right at the block but below the head either cracks across the bosses or in some cases breaks a large chunk right out of the block all the way to the water jackets around the cylinders. Ive seen that at least a half dozen times…
Im curious what this is going to end up costing you also…
it was hit on passenger side front wheel, it pushed subframe into the oil pan, tapping it but it didnt brake off just made a crack which was very weird as they usually break off with aluminum.
How much does a K20 swapp build usually cost someone?
as you can see i didnt do my research, i jumped in the pool with out see how much water was in it lol…
Tonight update:
I got the oem rsx headers off, the axle intermediate shaft, and oil pan off. Now i;ll have to await the parts for the swap.
I will start working on pulling the d16 out tomorrow hopefully have it all mocked up by mid week.
ive heard that the swap can cost upwards of 5-6k just for the engine and trans and parts for the rest of the swap, but it sounds like your gonna come in a bit under that
LOL @ a bit under that. Are you even into the red yet Dave?
i would say more minmal is $6000 and upwards of $7.5K
Here is the estimated price for the build if everything was brought decent price.
Engine, Motor, Harness, Ecu, Trannsmission: $3000
Shifter Mount: m$150
Shfiter Box: $250
Shifter Cable: $100
Swap Mounts: $550
Harness Conversion: $350
Axles: $250
K-Pro: $1000 or immobilizer: $200
Headers: $500
Clutch Line: $100
Hose Adapter: $50
Engine Coolant Temp Sensor: $30
Fan Switch: $30
Slim Radiator Fan: $150
Radiator Hose: $100
Fuel Line Kit: $250
Fuel Rail: $150
Fuel regulator: $200
Fuel Pump: $100
Estimated Total: $7310 with K-pro or $6510 with Immobilizer Bypass
Misc Stuff that I needed:
Serpentine Belt: $40
Oil Pan: $150
Half Shaft: $100
Total $290
To Add Power Steering:
Cooler kit: $100
Msc Hose: $50
OEM Power Steering line from RSX: $200
Total for adding power steering: $250
To add a/c there is a kit for $400 if the civic already has oem a/c option
To add cruise there is no kit out there currently but i think it can be done for $200 if u have the factory cruise option.
So as you can see its not a cheap build at all.
I honestly rethought about doing this shit after i added up all the shit…lol but im already 80% in so i cant bail now.
Im close to the red but because of some of the broken parts on the motor to begin and the power steering being, cruise control and a/c being also fitted it will be alot more then just a regular swap of just the motor.
dude should of just went with an H2B, same power, less mula
I’m saying that would be a estimated amount of someone else doing this K20 Build…it didn’t say I was spending that much lol. How much was your build? Did you tell me 10k?
garbage… i beat a h2b em1 last night at the track, trapping right around the same and i have a 98 spec b18c… and did i mention that the mounts suck for those motors and the headers sit lower than k series motors… i ran all night enjoying my car while his upper drivers mount ripped out from the block and sheared 2 bolts off before that
nice updates so far, sucks that they are the old mounts, the new ones are a better design and much lighter… whod ya get em from?
A seller on a forum and I’m working on getting it worked out.
I also started breaking down the d16 for the pull. Homefully tomorrow.