At 50% wear, tire diameter (Tw) = 31.7 X 2(9/64) = 31.42
Assuming you are traveling at 70mph:
w = th/t
s=r*th
then
th= s/r
so
w = s/ (r * t)
but since v = x/t
or in this case
v=s/t
w= v/r
so
w = v/r
since r=d/2
w = 2v/d (radians)
1 rad = 180/pi degrees
so
w= 360v/(pi*d)
Angular slip (As) will be defined as wn-wu
SO
at 70mph = 73 920 in/min
As = 360*v/pi (1/dn-1/du)
As = -2381 degrees per minute.
since 1 ROT = 360 degrees
As = -6.61 rpm
So, for every minute you drive, your differential is SLIPPING 6.6 times every minute. I’m sure you can see how this would be BAD for any differential.
EDIT: I LOVE MATH.
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yeah but it doesnt do it all the time. they only time it does it is if you’re like accelerating up a hill (weather it be very slight or very extreme), or basically any time the truck has to work a little harder to get moving. it does it worse the further you put the pedal down to the floor, and if you accelerate slowly, it wont do it, which is fine but thats not the point. it shouldnt do it at all. so basically its not slipping all of the time. its pretty hard to explain without actually driving it and feeling it for yourself. and newman, i understood absolutely NONE of that. i suck at math. horribly. lol
#1: If all 4 tires are same diameter it’s not an issue, as has already been said.
#2: If you just want to fix the issue and stop wasting your time with the dealer, change the fluid on the transfer case. Those auto 4wd transfer cases are very particular about having fresh fluid. I have to change the one on the Expedition every 20k or so or it starts clunking on accelleration. Change the fluid and it’s as smooth as can be for another 20k.
It’s like $10 in fluid and 30 minutes of your time. I don’t know what your time is worth but mine is worth enough that I don’t like wasting it fighting with some asshole stealership.
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I will have to do that if they either dont offer to do it for me or wont do anything else. the truck has 72,000 miles on it, and id be willing to bet it was NEVER changed.
yeah the only thing that sucks is going in there and being like “well these people on these forums said you’re wrong” will never work haha if only it was that easy.
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lol if you actually say that you deserve to be taken for a ride. But I know you’re joking.
Yes, you tell the guy to eat your ass because all 4 tires are the same size. So his theory that it’s because of the tires is absolutely invalid.
so what would people advise i do/say to tell them they are wrong, fix the real problem?
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Is this happening when the torque converter is locked? A common problem with those is the converter “slips” giving one hell of a chatter. Try this, drive till you can make the chatter happen, then, lightly touch the brakepedalwithout changing the throttle position, see if the problem goes away. If it does, thats your problem. You need a Torque Converter. By lightly touching the brake and not changing the throttle at all, you are unlocking the TCC. If its still there, it could be the tires, I have had that happen too on my Chevy truck. I bought 4 new tires, & the dealer wouldnt fix my 4wd problem (stayed in 4x4 after shifting out) he said the new tires were causing problem. I went back home & installed my stock winter tires & rims, problem still there. The amount of slip (as noted on Newmans thread) can cause tons of problems, not sure why it happens only under load. But make sure its not the TCC & go from there.
I will have to do that if they either dont offer to do it for me or wont do anything else. the truck has 72,000 miles on it, and id be willing to bet it was NEVER changed.
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couple things from a dealers perspective:
first of all if it has 72,000 miles its no longer under the original manufacturer’s warranty and won’t be covered unless you have extended the original with the SAME coverage as the original. I would say from the sounds of it there is probably some stupid rule that ford has put in place that they will only warranty this problem under xxxx conditions. the problem I see is that because the tire size is not stock it will not meet xxxx conditions. I know GM will not warranty a problem like this with tires that are not stock sized, regardless of how close it is to the stock size.
even if it was covered by the dealer ford will audit the warranty claims every quarter and charge he dealer back the amount of the claim if they don’t feel it meet the warranty requirements. I would also change the diff fluid before i went any further because you don’t know when it was changed last. Our rule with used cars is that we change all the fluids before we sell them so that we know for a fact when they were changed last.
if there is anything i can do to help please ask because we do have a Ford dealership on walden ave. Due to all the dealers closing around them the service dept is absolutely slammed so if you want to go there please let me know first so i can try and get you in sooner
first of all if it has 72,000 miles its no longer under the original manufacturer’s warranty and won’t be covered unless you have extended the original with the SAME coverage as the original. I would say from the sounds of it there is probably some stupid rule that ford has put in place that they will only warranty this problem under xxxx conditions. the problem I see is that because the tire size is not stock it will not meet xxxx conditions. I know GM will not warranty a problem like this with tires that are not stock sized, regardless of how close it is to the stock size.
even if it was covered by the dealer ford will audit the warranty claims every quarter and charge he dealer back the amount of the claim if they don’t feel it meet the warranty requirements. I would also change the diff fluid before i went any further because you don’t know when it was changed last. Our rule with used cars is that we change all the fluids before we sell them so that we know for a fact when they were changed last.
if there is anything i can do to help please ask because we do have a Ford dealership on walden ave. Due to all the dealers closing around them the service dept is absolutely slammed so if you want to go there please let me know first so i can try and get you in sooner
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thanks! and i am still under the warranty that they gave me when i bought the thing as a used car from them. I was actually thinking about taking it to another Ford dealer and paying them to look at it and offer up a “second opinion” so to say.
yeah the only thing that sucks is going in there and being like “well these people on these forums said you’re wrong” will never work haha if only it was that easy.
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LIE, Fight fire with fire. Tell them you work at a dealership and had your top mechanic take a look at it and he said the new tires would never cause the problem because they are all the same size. And tell them that you know you are getting taken for a ride, and just wanted to bring it to their attention before you call Ford Direct. That should get things moving.
call me 716-479-5123 is my cell i want to find out about this warranty you bought and help you get over to our store
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I didnt buy a warranty. they gave me a 3 month, 3,000 mile warranty through them, and the vehicle spent a good portion of that first month in the shop because they couldnt get their act together and fix things that we agreed would have been fixed before i bought it. so, as a “consolation” they extended their warranty another 2,000 miles/2 months, which is what im under now. As much as I would LOVE to take it to Basil Ford because I’m sure they would not lie to me and would actually fix it, I dont think I can because its a West Herr warranty.
Easy way to check the tires diameter, make chalk mark on the tires, @ 6 o clock, and on the ground at the same spot. Roll the tire 3 complete revolutions and make another line when the tire is at 6 again. Measure the distance between the 2 marks on the ground. Do this to all 4 tires and see the difference.
Easy way to check the tires diameter, make chalk mark on the tires, @ 6 o clock, and on the ground at the same spot. Roll the tire 3 complete revolutions and make another line when the tire is at 6 again. Measure the distance between the 2 marks on the ground. Do this to all 4 tires and see the difference.
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there wouldnt be a difference. the tires are all the same size and I bought all 4 of them brand new the same day about 3 weeks ago.
I didnt buy a warranty. they gave me a 3 month, 3,000 mile warranty through them, and the vehicle spent a good portion of that first month in the shop because they couldnt get their act together and fix things that we agreed would have been fixed before i bought it. so, as a “consolation” they extended their warranty another 2,000 miles/2 months, which is what im under now. As much as I would LOVE to take it to Basil Ford because I’m sure they would not lie to me and would actually fix it, I dont think I can because its a West Herr warranty.
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gotcha, and sorry I didn’t realize that you were the Mike that came down here last week… tell your gf if she wants that G6 I’ll make it a bit cheaper for her if she takes it by the end of the month (I want to sell it!!)
i wont read this but i agree its the transfer case. i think its called a servo which controls the amount of force goes to what wheel.5 years ago my dads 03 explorer did the same thing. u really should of got the 100,000 mile used car warranty. that way u would have a 100 dollar deductable and be able to take it anywhere.
Mike and problems with a dealer hmmm… Thats never happened before.
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I will never buy another vehicle from West Herr ever again. My family has bought a couple cars from Paddock, absolutely no complaints there, and we have also done business with Keller Chevrolet and a great business they have over there as well. I’ll even be the first to admit that the stuff i bitched about Mike Smith Buick Pontiac GMC was elementary and is nothing compared to the shit i’ve been dealing with West Herr
Complaints About Vehicle Repairs, Inspections, or Dealers
Does NYS regulate motor vehicle repair shops, inspection stations and dealers?
Yes. The businesses in the following list must register with the DMV to operate. NYS law requires these businesses follow all consumer protection laws and regulations.
Repair shops - A vehicle repair shop is required to display a green and white sign that reads, “Registered Motor Vehicle Repair Shop”. The repair shop must display its registration certificate and labor rates inside. Read more about vehicle repairs in the DMV brochure, Know Your Rights in Auto Repair.
Inspection stations - Inspection stations must display a yellow and black sign that reads, “Official Inspection Station”.
Dealers - Anyone who sells or offers for sale more than five vehicles in one year must register with the DMV as a dealer.
Vehicle dismantlers and other businesses that remove or discard vehicles and parts must register with the DMV.
How do I file a complaint about a repair shop, inspection station or dealer?
Use form VS-35(Vehicle Safety Complaint Report) to file a complaint. To ask how to file your complaint, call the DMV Division of Vehicle Safety Services at (518) 474-8943 between 8:30 a.m. and 4:15 p.m. weekdays.
Note: The DMV can investigate vehicle repair complaints that are made within 90 days or 3,000 miles of the repair, whichever comes first. The Department cannot resolve disputes over the terms of manufacturer warranties or guarantees.
That’s probably your only real source of power at the dealer.
Just found on West Herr’s website there is a place to contact the president of the company. I highly doubt that anything goes directly to him, however its worth a shot. I’m going to wait until they call me back and I’ll see what they diagnose the problem as and see what they’re going to do about it. good information Fry, I may need to use that, although I’d like to solve the problem with the dealership internally first. we’ll see how far that get though