[quote=“Fry,post:38,topic:39904"”]
That’s probably your only real source of power at the dealer.
[/quote]
Fry this ends up on my desk and i’m hunting you down!!!
[quote=“Pauly,post:41,topic:39904"”]
Fry this ends up on my desk and i’m hunting you down!!!
[/quote]
At least it will be from a “real shop” 
oooookkkk…just got back from picking the truck up and heres what we got: dealer says its the tires blah blah blah they say they measured them, and there was a deviation of 7/8" between all 4 tires. I refused to believe that 4 brand new tires were that much different, so i asked their “top technician foreman” who worked on my truck what his measuring technique was. ladies and gentleman, i shit you not, the words that came out of his mouth: “well, I took a piece of string…” and i stopped him right there lol
so he told me to pop the 4x4 fuse thus making the thing be a 2 wheel drive Explorer, and to take it back to where I got the tires. great. so on the way home i call Jim Deans and talk to Jim, who was real cool about it. He said that he had never heard of such an issue especially with those tires. He said that he would call Interco in the morning and get back to me. He also said to stop down at the shop and he would look at it, and if need be, exchange the tires that I have for some ones that are closer to the OEM spec.
So for the time being, i am rolling around with the 4x4 fuse popped out, and it drives great, and i honestly think its a little faster haha. i think what i may do is leave the tires on it, and just wire a switch into the 4x4 fuse (which is the only thing on that fuse). figure at the very least it will make up for the little bit of gas mileage i may have lost with the tires. But thats where im at right now.
West Herr ford’s service department blows. After I bought my car used from them I noticed my battery light was going off at around 5.5k rpm’s. I figured it was the alt because this had happened to another car i had owned. Sure enough it was and It was still under warrantee so I took it in and they replaced it. They replaced it with a bad alt but the battery light still went off but this time it went off closer to 7k rpm’s. A few months later it got worse so I took it back to West Herr. They basically told me that I didn’t need to get my rpm’s up that high and they would not replace it again. From personal experience, I can understand how they are dicking you around.
I had similar problems with my work truck, it was the fuel filter.
how many cars have you been trough the past year?
[quote=“newman,post:16,topic:39904"”]
Here is WHY it is true.
Given:
235/84/16
tire diameter (Tn) = 31.7
Assume: 9/32 tread depth
At 50% wear, tire diameter (Tw) = 31.7 X 2(9/64) = 31.42
Assuming you are traveling at 70mph:
w = th/t
s=r*th
then
th= s/r
so
w = s/ (r * t)
but since v = x/t
or in this case
v=s/t
w= v/r
so
w = v/r
since r=d/2
w = 2v/d (radians)
1 rad = 180/pi degrees
so
w= 360v/(pi*d)
Angular slip (As) will be defined as wn-wu
SO
at 70mph = 73 920 in/min
As = 360*v/pi (1/dn-1/du)
As = -2381 degrees per minute.
since 1 ROT = 360 degrees
As = -6.61 rpm
So, for every minute you drive, your differential is SLIPPING 6.6 times every minute. I’m sure you can see how this would be BAD for any differential.
EDIT: I LOVE MATH.
[/quote]
Does weight ever come into play or is it strictly overall rolling diameter (being equal)?
[quote=“MikeRi24,post:33,topic:39904"”]
there wouldnt be a difference. the tires are all the same size and I bought all 4 of them brand new the same day about 3 weeks ago.
[/quote]
I don’t care if they were made yesterday on the same line by the same person. I’ll bet $100.00 if you check them like I said, you’ll see the difference. F-ing things are touchy to tire size even a little. Sucks but thats the way it is.
This is coming from being a former Ford Technician (with all the classroom certification crap too!!!), even before i read your entire first post my thought was tires either being slightly different overall diamter even though they were new or you should have the tech reprogram the ECM with your correct size, and yes it can be done using the Ford WDS scan tool all the dealers have. Ask the lead tech to reprogram it to the correct size tire and go from there and see if it happens still. Those transmissions and transfer cases are sensitive and it was like that on older model Explorers too. The first thing any tech that i used to work with would have done with a 4wd/awd corcern like that on the exploder is to look at the tire sizes and/or conditions. It sounds like you have something wrong in the case from your desciption. With the computer set to the proper size tire, all the actual shifting will match the electronic signal read by the computer. Without it reprogrammed you are probbably driving at a speed different from what the computer wants it to shift in and out of awd/4wd modes. Those would be the first steps i would have taken if working on the truck, reprogram and a quick test drive isnt even 15 minutes of a tech’s precious flat rate time. by the way, did they sell you a truck with bad tires or did you just want something better?
go in there and talk to donny nowak he is now the manager there he will help u out dont mention me though hes a dear friend of the family. but ur problem is u dont think before u buy mike. the car was a pos when u bought what would change whoopdie do u have a 2000 mile warranty now. newer explorers are not made for off roading or agressive tires. if there the wrong size sorry buddy they dont have to do shit for u.
I bought the truck with shitty tires, but they said they would still pass inspection and they didnt do anything about it. now heres where it gets weird. there is no fuse for the 4x4 so theres no way at all the transfer case is operable. it STILL DOES THE SAME THING. im starting to wonder if the fact that rear diff is leaking as well has anything to do with it? they were supposed to look at it, and they said they topped it off and said there was a leak but couldnt tell where it was leaking from
I honestly think its you. I would suggest investing in a good mountain bike and some warm gloves. Or perhaps even a bus pass at this point.
Everyone has had experiences with dealers and “lemon” cars but you are just ridiculous.
Sell truck, buy 2 new hyundai’s with the 100,000 mile warranty. Even if you get lemons, between the 2 of them you will probably have at least 1 out of the shop the majority of the time.
[quote=“J&J,post:42,topic:39904"”]
At least it will be from a “real shop”
[/quote]
I dont get it. The smile part- wanna explain?
You bought a truck that had numerous issues that you knew of before you even bought it.
Not to mention it’s a 70k Ford Explorer… Shit was bound to blow up.
Possible misfire problem? How is it when you’re going down the highway, when it just shifts into overdrive and the torque converter is locked? If you pull off the coils, is their oil down in the plug wells?
of its a fuel filter then why isnt he throwing lean or misfire codes
Couldn’t tell you there. All I know is my work truck did the same exact thing. Fuel filter was replaced and the problem disappeared. I never had a check engine light when it happened either. I’m not saying its his problem, but its something to check out.
ok so i went into work this morning, and my boss was kind enough to suggest switching the rims and tires off of his 03 Explorer onto mine. we did, and guess what? still does the same thing, even without the 4x4 fuse in.