An intelligent discussion on upgrades

[quote=“DJPyro”"]

Yeah, but that was 1200, after 1000hp, they do need internal work. Especially to be reliable.

It’s still not overly difficult, but it’s also not cheap.

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Yes, but you’re misinterpreting what I’m saying.
With the current aftermarket it is easy to get 800+ hp.
800+hp reliably on a 2JZ engine requires some internals, but those upgraded internals can handle 1200hp. At that point, the difference between 800hp and 1200hp is pretty much as simple as fuel flow (injectors mainly) and turbos. Most people don’t go much farther than 650whp without internals on their 2JZ engines.

650whp in ideal situations is just shy of 800bhp

Lose some seats and some weight instead of building your engine. 650whp is enough for street pwning anyway :smiley:

Any performance modification has its benefits over the others.
Losing weight vs. increasing horespower is losing it’s steam in it’s comparisons. The pros/cons between the two can be proven as two completely different things and it’s becoming an outdated alternative to the other.

No I’m not saying that.
I thought without explicitly mentioning the advantages of dropping the weight most people would assume them.

Lets look at the Modern day Nissan GTR
In real world views most would assume that it is relatively underpowered and largely overweight, yet people have said so far that it accelerate faster than most they’ve seen and handles like a gokart.

*** This is where I say, it’s all about the Gypsies and the Wizards throwing around their wonds every time the owner punches the gas… Not really

But it’s more about where the manufacturer puts the weight rather than taking it all off. It’s more about how the manufacturer gets whatever power there is to the road rather than putting as much power in as they can

ie. 500 HP and I’m putting a consistent 500HP to the ground at all RPMs with very little wheel slip whereas, 900hp and I’m putting 900hp to the ground at 7000rpm with 50% of the power slipping at the wheels.
— With a slightly different topic, this is like what Terry was saying and I was trying to explain to you with the two different Dyno Charts between the GT28RS and the GT2871R. The GT28RS has a nice smooth power band between 1500 and 7000 RPM about 400hp to 650 where the GT2871R has a peaky 900hp at 7000RPM with every other RPM below 100hp

I was simply saying it becuause its good value. Instead of ripping apart the engine and rebulding $$$ just part out some interior parts and up the boost. It’s not like 650whp isn’t enougn unless you have a sponsored super drag car that wants to run 1000+whp.

how bout torque? u can up torque as well right?

okie dokie here we go
What TNC should be all about, not the multitudes of nonchalant video clips.

Sure it’s a great value, but how much of a “race car” do you become when you strip it down. I’ve been there and I want to come back desperately.
My Datsun was completely stripped down to a paperweight. When I honestly think about the difference in driving characteristic, I didn’t gain much performance at all by stripping it. I just got extemely irritated when driving it down the street cause I could hear every sound of the engine right in front of me, every rock that I bounced over and every rain drop that fell on the roof.

Of course they are both vital upgrades, but both have their places. You can up the power on a car and still Daily Drive it, but try stripping the car to the bones and Daily Driving it and tell me how much you’re annoyed with it. You remember driving around your 240 with the big ass exhaust leak the first time I met you.

I’m not saying to put a big ass turbo on the car, I’m saying to pick the turbo that will utilize most of the power band, even if it makes far less peak power than the other turbo.

Different conversation. As Pete said, HP is a function of TQ. If you up torque you generally up horespower. Calculus will give you a better understanding of that.

I used to think it was all about HP. Then I met TQ… Never looked back :stuck_out_tongue:

Jokes aside… I’m in on this conversation. The difference of stripping a car down and adding hp is a very thin line. You’re increasing the car’s potential and the undermined engineering both ways, however achieving different results. Where the difference lies is what the goal of the car is. If you want a street cruiser, to pick up girls in and smoke corvettes, your gonna get that IS300 or S14 with a 2JZ running beefy numbers.

When you want a REAL driver’s car, you’re looking at affordability vs. performance. It has been said, you can’t have both, however the closest thing is to work with what you have. You’re gaining performance at a VERY reasonable price (free, in terms of gutting anyways). Lowering the car, lowers the center of gravity, which WILL keep the car grounded. Gutting the car will have it’s obvious benefits, such as braking, cornering, tire wear, and agility. All categories that a real driver is usually looking for.

Now, going as far as saying this is no longer comfortable to drive is dangerous grounds. This new agile car will appeal to some, more than others, usually the younger crowd with unrefined taste in automobiles. This is no grounds to say that they are stupid or wrong though.

Overall, if playing pro’s vs. con’s… I’d say it depends on what you want out of the car. A fun DD with track capability, or a Wangan cruiser.

hahahaha Big Bird. Speak the truth now. When have you ever picked up girls???
What’s a Wangan Cruiser? Sounds like a line of Ford Station Wagons from 1975

I’ve picked up girls burning the clutch in my mom’s 9-3 turbo. And in my dad’s GANGSTER Tahoe. Never in a 240. Goes to show my point.

You can F-ck right off there buddy. I didn’t read anything but the first few things you and Pat said. I am just showing my opinion. Is that against the f-cking rules?

nice post thank you popcorn, see guys its not hard to make a new thread and discuss something from a previous thread and not go offtopic on another. . 100+ for popcorn…

I want a mild cage in my Datsun

  • hint hint * - I’ve mentioned it before, but I’m gonna remote mount a twin charge setup with a nice big motor up front pushing power through a Nissan AWD setup

But I’ll be putting sound deadening back in because I can’t stand the tin can experience for every day driving.
It will haul, handle, and have a respectable weight when done.

Just waiting until I buy a bigger house before I get started on that.

No thats ok thanks. When I get to that point I want to do it myself like all the other things I’ve done on that car.
I’ll acquire a small tube bender in the coming years and do it up myself.