my engine is making a sort of really faint ticking/rattling sound…coming from the
top end…its not very loud but i can hear it if i pay attention to it…it kinda gets
faster and faster as i accel for a bit then kindajust goes away or i cant hear it lol
anyone know what this could be…and how bad it could be?..
SR’s have noisy injectors, matter of fact most of nissan’s injectors are a little noisy.
But can you hear it from inside the car with the window’s shut??
Or is it only when you open your hood.
How is you oil pressure.
i dont have a oil presure gauge…and my oil is good i just recently did an oil chane
i know its not the injectors becuase i knew that sounds before this happend
i can hear it when the windows are shut and its like a rattle more then a tick and
get faster n faster as i accel…
what kind of oil?
might be rocker arms/cams/valves aren’t getting enough lube?
exhaust heat shield? How do you know its coming from the head? Could be a loose bracket also
i know its not a heat shield…im like 80% sure its coming from the valve cover
Then it sounds like a broken rocker, or lack of lubrication in the upper end
Pull the valve cover and have a look.
And get a real oil pressure guage. Just becuase you did an oil change does not indicate you have good oil pressure
so should i stop driving the car…and what will this be for repairs roughly…
just get someone with experience with sr20’s to listen to ur motor before u start coming to conclusions
what kind of oil and filter?
that can make a difference
quaker state full synthetic with fram oil filter…but i did this oil change like when the ticking was happening
Yup, stuff is hard to diagnose over the internet
Yup, stuff is hard to diagnose over the internet[/quote]
where abouts do u live? i’ve had almost everything blow up imaginable on my ca over the past year so im pretty good with identifying noises :lol:
I have heard quaker state synthetic isn’t very “pure” that it has filler and wax. and Fram filters are considered the worst on the market.
I would highly recomend going to an esso cardlock or retailer and getting XD3 synthetic oil, and purolator filter. I tried it in 3 cars and noticed a difference in smoother reving, smoother idle, and quiter idle. this is over quaker state’s new synthetic oil, casterol, and the other car was an unknown. and all had fram filters before I changed them to purolators.
I have heard of others noticing similiar differences with the same oil/filter. maybe it’s worht a try?
and what viscosity are you using?
5w30…lol damn another oil change then? this will be my 3rd one this month lol
sinmce that ticking started maybe a week or so after the first oil change…i changed it
again to synthetic and still has the tick tick tick…so i guess ill try that out pretty soon
here…and 10w30 being thicker…would that lube up the parts more and reduce the tick?
i use amsoil 5w40
in the summer I used a 15W40 and in the cooler weather at the end of summer, begining of fall I use a 10W30. Turbo aluminum engines get HOT, so don’t worry about thick oil, just give it time to warm up before you drive it. If your driving it in the winter, then maybe go a little thinner, like a 5W30, but if the coldest it sees is -15 or so, then don’t worry about going that thin.
Just recomendations based on research and my own experience, there is NO PROOF , or gaurantees here!
When you look into the valve cover through the oil filler cap, is there a good layer of redish/brown, or is it fairly clean with just light deposits? could be alot of carbon/wax ect… build up? could be something already kind of worn out, and the best oil in the world won’t help it now? But an oil change is a cheap place to start!
If you shop around you can find the XD3 oil for $20 for a 4L jug, and purolator filters for $5. that’s just as cheap as the canadian tire crap, but for top of the line stuff!