Well a ported box it really just good for certain frequency’s, and sounds better with rap and whatnot, but I’d seriously check the specs on your subs and if it is wired correctly to your amp
I’m trying to find out more about the sub, I found out one thing, the logo was of Rockford Fosgate so scratch MTX, it was always Rockford Fosgate, i think it’s a couple years old, but yes the amp is XM-2150GSX for sure. i’m looking at the site right now and this one says 380W at 2 ohms? http://www.shopping.com/xPF-Sony-XM-2150GSX
Anyways, the way i have it wired is one negative (Left side) is mated with one positive (right side) and then the leftover negative and positive go to the sub, the sub has a negative on one side mated to postive on the other side.
I never had a problem with it when i first got it, then i fooled around with ported box and now i get the stoppage problem where i need to push the cone to get it started again. oh and i have a walmart capacitor.
thanks everyone for your inputs, really appreciate it. i’m not 100% sure on it but i’m almost positive that it’s a 2+2 (ohms) sub
k wait i’m just reading a bunch of stuff, so since i have it wired in ‘series’ i’m only squeezing out 2+2 = 4 ohms from the amp which only gives me 300 rms? How can i wire it so i get 2 ohms final giving me 380 rms to better match the sub? and I just found out that I don’t need the one positive and one negative from the amp mated. I can’t find what my amp is able to put out when bridged or what impedence it’s able to handle when bridged for that manner. bleh I’m also reading "If yes, the coil is probably charred from excess heat or out of alignment in the magnetic gap between coil and pole piece magnet. This requires a recone job. (voice coil replacement)
If no, the coil may still be OK, but the tinsel leads between wire lugs and voice coil may be loose. With care and patience, this is something you may be able to repair." and supposedly it’s not uncommon that mismatched ported or BP box can cause over excursion and cause them to be loose. I think thats where my problem is?
so if i got that right ur running a RF 10" p3(400 rms - 800 peak, i just put two of them in a yaris, see g/f’s car thread for pictures) by the sounds of it, i’d say that sub is fucked, if u have to give it cpr to make the cone move, i’d say the voilcoil is pretty much fucked almost to the point of sezing completely.
the RF sub is a 4ohm sub, if ur running a 2ohm amp thats probably y u need to preform cpr!! is that 380 peak or rms? the p3 is made for a ported box,the two p3’s i have are in a RF box ment for p3’s. i wanted a rf amp, but none of them there were big enough. i settled with a pioneer premier running 1200watts @ 4ohms those p3’s will handle 1600 @ 4ohms. under powered yes, but not by much that it would make a big difference.
your wireing doens’t make sense to me. only time you should have a neg terminal connected to a pos terminal is if you are running two subs in a series. the way you should have it wired is, + to +, - to -. far - and far + to bridge the amp to get the most power and usually depending on your amp, a mono signal.
does your sub look similar to these?
ignore that shitty little amp and all the wire, it’s no longer in there. took the pic at the store. had to make sure the box would fit in the thing they call a trunk!
not at home and this keyboard sucks ass, sorry for typin errors!(no spell check and it’s 4 am so i’m lazy!
it’s got a logo like this http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/6171/310720071221ty6.jpg except it doesn’t say punch and it’s a silver colour cone and it’s a 10" sub. If the sub looked like that i woulda had it up already. and as for the wiring, it’s a dual voice coil so it kinda is like running 2 single voice coil subs, so pretty much that
http://www.crutchfield.com/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html?imageID=1DVC_2-ohm_2ch
does anyone know about the tinsel lead repair i mentioned above?
By the sounds of your wiring, you have connected all four channels of the amp, bridging the amp would be wiring the two indicated terminals on the amp to the sub. (As in the diagram you connected). If your voice coil was fried you would know… Go to youtube and type in “fried voice coil” If it was toast you wouldn’t be here asking how to fix it. If you have a 2ohm DVC woofer and a 4ohm amp then you can wire it in like this http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=22 (second configuration) in series. As for the tinsel repair your asking about, that would be the terminals on the woofer, (-) and (+) may be loose and they are saying you can repair that connection.
those RF are before they changed the look of their subs, which they are doing again soon!!!
i never actually said it was fried, and yea, if it was fried this thread wouldn’t be here, but if it was fucked/melted it would need CPR to get it going, I’ve had the same problem with the 12 clarion pro series 2 (DVC 300 RMS 600peak) that were in my 240 when i got it. i had to give it CPR like u said to get it to move or it wouldn’t. i bought a RF P2 so i ripped apart the sub that needed CPR and the voice coil was melted a bit, not the whole thing, but at least 40% of it. never buy clarion!
thanks all for your inputs, i never knew so much was involved in sound systems, now i know better. I guess i’ll take it apart one day and see
Spend the time to fix and tune it, and it will totally pay off.
hahah if you only know how involved this stuff can be
hey thats cool you guys are helping out im just a lil curious any of you mecp cert and or have any of you worked as an installer or attended mobile dynamics?
I am a sales and technical Trainer for a car audio company.
cool what product?