I was just wondering if anyone has had success with alky injection, if so what system.
thats hell of a way to control your octane, the con part you have to run alot alot fuel, another pro is that you run so much fuel thew the motor that it keeps it damn neer ice cold,
(i was talken to an old schooler)
Yeah intake temps drop too. fuck intercoolers short hotpipe and some alky injection sounds about right.
im using methanol injection with the snow injection system. pretty nice setup. under wot throttle over 6200 in my tt stang my fuel ratio was almost and even 9:1 with this system at medium setting.
:eek4:
You weren’t lying Joe thats a lot of fuel. Congrats on the homebrew setup and good time.
Thanks for the info.
Where’s a good place to buy methanol?
make a newb post and you’ll be answered. i just made a post about this not long ago
…
poison ivy > me
i refuse to roll around on the hill with pewter anymore.
i didnt get it!
heres some data on what one guy experienced on his procharged 305 TPI motor
First a brief review for those who don’t know the history of my car. Until this year, I had a Paxton SN2000 with a Carroll water injection system. Then I replaced the SN2000 with an ATI D1SC and three-core intercooler. I kept the H2O injection when I sold the Paxton and finally installed it last weekend.
I also reinstalled my manifold air temp (MAT) sensor back in its original location so I could get some valid air temps. I’ve always professed that water injection is more efficient than any air-to-air intercooler. Now, for the results:
Without H2O Injection:
May 4, 2001
Ambient Temperature - 64 deg
Relative Humidity - 29 percent
This run was at the track with an E/T of 12.259 @ 113.17 mph.
Total timing set at 35 degrees.
Knock registered as high as 11 degrees with a minimum of 2 degrees (much higher than I’ve ever seen it).
MANIFOLD AIR TEMP throughout the run was 131 degrees. Keep in mind ambient temperature was 64 degrees. (Can you imagine how hot it would have been had it not been for the intercooler?)With H2O Injection engaged at 3-psig boost:
June 10, 2001
Ambient Temperature - 101 degrees
Relative Humidity - 8 percent
This data was not at the track, but on a secluded section of roadway. I recorded data up to 75 mph.
Total timing set at 38 degrees.
Knock registered as high as 7 degrees with a minimum of zero.
MANIFOLD AIR TEMP started at 125.6 degrees. For each second thereafter during my burst, here are the values:123.8
116.6
102.2
95.0
91.4
89.6
87.8
87.8
86.0
89.6Keep in mind the ambient temperature was 101 degrees. It looks like I was right about which truly is more efficient. I was able to run 38 total degrees timing, knock values were significantly less AND all this with an ambient temperature that was 37 degrees HOTTER. By the very nature of physics, no air-to-air intercooler can lower intake air temperatures to ambient. However, the H2O injection was able to lower air temps to BELOW ambient. Amazing! So to those guys who think H2O is a “band-aid”, emperical data can oftentimes sway even the most hard-to-convince person. All I can say is I’m NEVER racing again without my “band-aid”. I rest my case.
I finally made it to the track since I installed my air temperature gauges (See previous post called Intercooler Effectiveness).
Temperature: 80 degrees
Humidity: 22 percent
Pressure: 28.14 inchesBefore the run:
The pre-IC temp was approximately 130 degrees.
The post-IC temp was about 100 degrees.
Air temp in the plenum: 132 degrees.After the run (WITH water/alcohol injection):
The pre-ic temp was up to 187 degrees.
The post-IC temp was 122 degrees.
Air temp in the plenum: 97 degrees (thanks to water/alcohol).The blower put out 12 pounds of boost and I was able to run 38 degrees advance with ZERO knock retard for the duration of the run.
as you can see… its VERY effective to cool intake temps