Anybody want to earn some $$ and spray my car?

When I was HEAVILY around the painting scene about 5 years ago typical jobs would be around $250-$350 per panel as a estimate in overall materials. Typically you could get enough primer, paint, clear, bodyfiller, reducer, misc. disposables (ie, scuff pads, mixing supplies, cups, filters, etc…) to do a WHOLE car respray for around $1,500. That was using paint from Al-Wils. I think he had PPG. However, the cost savings is if the guy/gal spraying it can reuse supplies on other jobs like the misc garbage that is a dime a dozen. The paint and clear is going to hurt you no matter what. That is even before labor.

You said you are willing to do the prep work. Most of the time it is a burden. While it is great that you offer most people will redo it. I typically did. I was a prep guy for many jobs. I hated deep scuff marks, scratches, and missed spots that get overlooked by the people trying to save monet. It drove me nuts. This is my opinion. If you take the time I am sure you can do it right. Just make sure you touch every surface. You hand is the best tool. You eye is the next best tool.

Honestly, the best option is to take it to a shop if you want a base coat clear coat paint job. If you are ok with a single stage then you can shop around. However, single stage paint jobs are “harder” due to the narrow “window” you have to work with to make it look good (Technical garbage like spray pattern, distance to atomize the paint particles, proper mixing, spray back, etc…) so you need a more experienced painter. Otherwise you will gets runs if it is too heavy, fisheyes if it is not applied correctly, and even peeling if it is not prepped right.

If you are confident in your skills I say go for it. The whole thing. PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE on scrap panels. Shit, even paint tool boxes or anything metal to get your technique down if YOU want.

If you are not confident…I would suggest not using an Amateur, no offense to anyone. There are some guys that know their stuff. I’m just thinking that this job is too big, and too important to you, Brian, for anyone but a shop…or yourself.

There is a reason that guy with the Chevelle spent those number of hours…I would do the same on my car.

Just a side note…I took my car to Fineline Collison, in EA. For the Work I want done the bill is $4,500. To me it is worth it. But, I have a LONG list of other things to do to the motor, suspension, brake setup, interior…it is a ways out.

So you are saying that professional painters and body guys don’t do work at home? With the right set up there is no difference between paint jobs from a shop or home garage. Perfect paint jobs are not guaranteed to come from a shop. It depends on the persons or shops character and skills. Not location.

:fu: true, true, i fat fingered that one.

idk how you an get a car painted $1-2k? and not take it to macco or some other hack place… prep it key, to pay some one who wants to take pride in the work on your car… havent you found out that short cuts are not the best action? srsly…your return on investment on the car is what?

Am I saying that professional don’t do side jobs?..Absolutely not. I have seen some of the best paint jobs done in a garage. I am saying don’t have someone touch your car if they have very little experience or are not sure about the skills they have. Think about it, if you had to choose between a experienced tech and a tech student to dis-assemble a motor who would you choose? It does not matter if it in a shop or not. A shop is not a guarantee. Just replace the word “shop” with “Professional” in my post.

I totally agree with you. Just trying to give some insight.

How much would a single stage job run, for an entire car? Say to prep, prime, and shoot? I’m assuming you probably would have an actual place in mind for something like this.

This is a huge fallacy though, you’d have to spray tons of paint. I’ve done this before, the problem is you can only sand/rub so far before you run out of clear and burn the paint. Sure, if you put on an inch of color and an inch of clear you could do this, but the priority is laying the paint cleanly, not saying “i’ll fix it later”. Esp. around corners where the pain is very thin.

with a clear/base, this method is a lot harder than with a single stage. With single stage, you can just lay on a ton of paint and cut it down…corners would still be a bit of an issues though. At least if you burn through, you can just lay down a few more coats and start over.

with that said…good spray technique > * …but for a cheap garage job, this method does work

Ok, lets assume you are doing this yourself and you you have nothing. Well, you have a gun, compressor, place to paint, tools need to take car apart, etc.

Supplies: (all the Misc BS - Cups, mixing sitcks, tac-cloth, tape, newspaper (you are not going to buy a $100 roll of brown paper), paint filters, painting cups (Primer, Paint), filler, spatula/squeegees, scuff pads, sanding paper, etc…) are around $400-$500 depending on how much qty you buy.

Actual Material: First this is SINGLE STAGE for a WHOLE car. That means at least a gallon, total mixed volume, or Primer and a gallon, total mixed volume, of Paint for overall coverage. So 1 gallon Primer needs about a quart of hardener and but the paint is usually a 3 quart color and 1 pint hardener and 1 pint reducer. Those are not the mixing ratios but that is usually what was used. Price is probably $300 for a good quality primer (I use the 2k buildable) and medium quality color (Not show condition).

If we look at a TWO STAGE for a WHOLE car you still need the same Primer. But, the color is now a seperate coat from the clear so there is a cost difference. Now you have gallon worth of primer/hardener, color/hardener/reducer, and clear/hardener. This is probably around $450. Again, depends on what you get. You can save a little money if you go with a laquer primer but you won’t be able to smooth out the finish as easily.

So, price difference between a 2-stage and single stage is almost nothing, say $100-$150. It is all that BS stuff that adds up.

If you account for NO labor costs you can paint the EXTERIOR body panels for around $1,000 to $1,500 depending on where you shop, the quality of paint, and the amount of supplies you get. I think the “cheapest” paint job for a whole car, money wise not quality, that I have been a part of was just under $800 in materials.

Also, some paints are mad expensive. Black is not bad to begin with but BMW black may be more. Depends on how much tinting is involved etc…

FYI…The worst color in the world to paint is Silver. I hate painting Silver but I love the color. Red is probably the easiest.

Damn I need to get my hood and rear bumper repainted as well.

I can’t believe people still consider single stage paint jobs for a normal car. :fail: Single stage is best for tractors and pos cars.

I know there are still some shops that do it on rat rods and such where high gloss is not a concern.

Two stage is the way to go. Less maintenance, better durability, easier to protect from fading…

Heh, I meant to have somebody in the area shoot single stage. I’ve painted cars before.

Thanks though

Oh, haha. Not really. The guy I worked for got out of that business for the most part. He did it for 30 years but is more into real estate now. He did single stage jobs but only on request as there is more room for issues.

Brian, Sorry to take your thread off topic a little…i’m out.

This makes me love owning a bike… and not having to repaint a car.

Painting bike parts sucks just as bad…

Or, maybe, just maybe, restoring cars that originally had single stage paint jobs :lolno:

I said normal car. not a fully restored classic.

But yea, I suppose. maybe.

most of nyspeed wont ever own a car like that anyways. Even if I were restoring a car I would still do bc/cc. I dont see any benefit to single stage other than being able to say ‘thats how it came from the factory’ but if its not original paint does it even matter anymore?

My brother owns a collision shop and is taking on work right now. Prices are always fair and he does very good work. He was head autobody teacher at UTI and taught at local schools too, If ur interested PM me.

^^ vouch for her brother. good guy, great work.

I primed everything and then wet sanded it all. There was no spot left untouched…