The roof on my garage needs to be replaced, bottom line. It’s a 2/12 pitch with some weird edges and such; plus the framing is back from the 1940’s when it was built and is kinda “rotted” or rotting/etc…
So I’m thinking of just putting a bucket or 3 of roofing tar on it this fall to seal it for winter, then next summer tear the WHOLE thing off, framing and all.
It’s a brick garage with a wooden top rail and wood framed roof.
So, tear EVERYTHING off; Clean up/replace/repair the top-rail, then use pre-ordered/fabbed trusses for all the framework; Sheath with OSB, and Asphalt shingle to match my house.
I agree with you guys, but I’m trying to match it to the house…
I’m not worried about the roofing, that’s the easy part. I just haven’t tackled the framing part before. I know I can do it, I’m just looking to see if anyone has experience/advice on doing it.
Prebuilt trusses are the way to go as long as you have a decent method of getting them up and into place. As brockway said a lift would be of great help but if there nothing to crazy Im sure a few strong guys some ladders and some beer would work also as long as the garage isnt to crazy. Just make sure your top plate is in good condition (if not replace it) and then lay them out and set them. Buy some fasterners and attach then i would attach a row of 2x4’s on each side to keep the tops from moving around. Attach plywood etc and roofing materials and all the little stuff. Shouldnt be to complicated, Air nailers will make quick work if avalible.
Yea, that’s what I was thinking’ only thing I’m slightly concerned about is how do I’m not 100% on how to attach the new top plate to the cinder-block walls… I’m thinking the top row is filled with concrete; if so, I’d just use the expanding bolt anchors through the top plate (right?)
You might want to think about a higher pitch for snow and storage usage.
If you use trusses, buy storage trusses.
Personally I would not use trusses because of cost and you won’t get the same storage you can get with rafters.
Someone mentioned metal roofing, be careful where the snow will slide to.(For anyone considering metal.)
stick frame it you can do it yourself. truss framing is nice but they tend to deflect under load like snow. how many all you do is remove them one at a time use the old ones as a template and it should only take a few hours
The construction company I work for do it. If you need help or an estimate, lemme know. He is a good guy and if I tell him you are a friend of mine, he will take care of ya.
BTW, if you just tar it now you are just wasting you money. Not much of a pitch to it, snow will accumulate and with our winters who knows if it will collapse. I guess just do you best to keep it weathersealed from the elements and then take some tall boards or something as support? Cut to meet the frame boards and just toenail? I wouldnt know what to do in that situation except get some of those adjustable steel lift poles with the flattened top. Uncle has had the same ones in his old garage for over 40 years for support and it has worked flawlessly, even holds up an old engine hoist.
The roof right now is a 1/12 or 2/12 pitched towards the back; with side framing hiding the main roof which are asphalt shingled; kinda strange setup. All the framing is like old 4x4’s and like a 2 or 3 8x 10’s back from the 40’s. So the new roof will be a completely different design.
The Tar was just to seal it for winter, it’s not in any danger to fall in, just leak.
I was going to go with at least a 6/12 pitch if not a 8/12, with 2 gable ends (front and back of the garage).
I was thinking I could just stick frame it, but was thinking the trussss would be easier. It may come down to cost too, if the trusses are boatloads of $$$, I can always stick frame it, just a little more work.
If I stick frame it:
I was thinking 2 x 8’s across the garage (spanning next to the rafter and nailed to the rafter), with 2 x 6’s for the rafters and a 2 x 8 ridge beam.
The 2 x 8’s would have a 20’ span and the 2 x 6’s would be ~12’, plus the overhang with a 8/12 pitch. That should be ok; I would think.
Then 5/8 OSB for decking and facing for the gable ends.
if your just taring it id jack it up a tad and put a few supporting beams in of possible this way its supported good for the winter and some sag gets tooken out
You can’t span 20’ with 2x8’s. You really need an LVL or a steel beam to span that far. If you can deal with a post in the middle so you can span 10’ it would be a lot easier.
Why not keep the old design that slopes to the rear? You could replace any timbers that need it with LVLs. It wouldn’t be that hard to raise the pitch in that sort of fashion.
You can’t span 20’ with 2x8’s. You really need an LVL or a steel beam to span that far. If you can deal with a post in the middle so you can span 10’ it would be a lot easier.
Why not keep the old design that slopes to the rear? You could replace any timbers that need it with LVLs. It wouldn’t be that hard to raise the pitch in that sort of fashion.
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I’m pretty sure he’s talking about the joists which are tension members to prevent the roof from spreading. 2x8’s would be fine, overkill even.
Are you POSITIVE that you need to rip the whole top off the garage? I’m not sure what your background is, but if I thought I needed to rip the top off of my garage I’d get a pro’s estimate to make sure I’m not going to extremes just because I’m an anal retentive engineer.
I’ve looked at the the framing of the roof, and while not necessary… I’m the retentive Engineer as well, so…
I’ve had it looked at by a couple people and the decking, plus some of the beams need repair/replacement. Plus the garage does not match the house AT ALL; thus I can match the style of the house and garage so they look like they match instead of the garage looking out of place.
The 2 x 8’s were what Bikerfry said; tensioners for the rafters, either installed @ the top of the wall level, or I’m thinking up a little bit (use 12’s) to span the rafters and install the ceiling up there.
As for doing it myself; I’ve done a bit of framing and house construction when I was younger (HS/College); So there’s no doubt that I can do it with the right tools. In fact I’m willing to bet I can probably have the whole thing done in under a week with 1 or 2 people helping without too much issue.
