i agree with that. tha CA is basically a 4 cylinder RB imo. as i know of the head design is almost the same, still turbo, and missing 2 cylinders, and smaller displacement… close enough!
what opinion? you blatantly(sp) attacked me.[/quote]
you attacked me in all of my threads, thats all i have to say, no need to reteach the whole world everything, o and yea btw i got my broken stud out today 
but an RB swap is still awsome imo
Mr. p_dvorak, looks like an interesting project you’ve got going on there! You should definitely make a thread with pics and what not when you’ve got her finished - or even as a “project” thread!
I think “laurieandmike” also has a RB20-swapped 240, and I think “farmer” has or almost has an RB26 240 ready IIRC.
And Miki01, if it’s what you want to do, then do what you gotta do research-wise and if it still works for you by all means go for it!
Well, iv seen and helped with an RB26DETT swap (farmers). Even considered it my self untill I helped to do it. The cost breakdown I dont even have all of but off the top of my head I CAN say its alot of parts and tools needed to do the swap.
Required
- Motor set (ECU, Harness, Motor, Coilpacks, ign chip)
- Its anywhere between 300-1200 bucks for mounts (and iv seen the 300 doller ones, which are a waist of time and end up costing 600 in total due to extra welding
- RB25DET tranny (which most motor places DONT wana split from the motor) between 600 - 1000)
- RB25DET oil pan, which is around 300 (i cant remember if thats canadian or usd) which u need to mangle as soon as u get it and pray u dont fuck up
- ur gona need to have someone who knows wireing to do ur engine harness (i duno how much this costs but im guessing a bit)
- Custom drive shaft (and u better hope ur motor has the RB side of the shaft, between 400-800)
- Theres a good chance ur gona need an oil pump as 50% of the first gen RB26DETTs have failing oil pumps and 25% of the second gens do as well thats about 1000$ for the N1 replacement pump
- Remachining of the crank to fit the new pump and to resolve the failing issue which means u gota remove the crank (i duno how much i didnt even ask at this point in the swap)
- Im 80% sure u also need a conversion for the clutch slave line
- You also need to modify the sway bar to ensure there is clearance for the oil pan
- Some lets call it custom work on the rad support as with out it the rad will sit less the 1 inch from the crank
- Custom intercooler piping and front mount intercooler
- Exhaust of some sort 3" or larger
- Something that can read the RPM and speedo signals from the harness as stock guages wont
- 2 Skyline mafs
- 2 filters
- Boostguage
- Koyo rad
Recommeded
- 300ZX or larger breaks (sure u can roll on stock ones but how safe would you feel?)
- 1.5 or 2way LSD (i dont really care who you use but the VLSD wont hold long if you launch that thing)
- Bigger rear tires
- A mid to high end boost controller to monitor the boost as well as adjust
Im missing a lot of stuff in that list and most of the things that where listed where what iv seen used, the proccess took just shy of a year and about every penny the guy had (saw him go with out food some time just to get the parts he needed) and unless u work at a machine shop or know someone who does the price tag on some of this work is quite high. For less then this you can do a 3 day SR20DET swap, with enough parts to make the same power as the RB and lets not forget EVERYTHING breakes eventually, SR parts are almost as common as KA parts now but RB parts ur gona be waitng on. At this point you may be saying, Im dedicated, Im ready to put down the money, time, frustration, sleepless nights, but I ask you, in the name of WHAT? to do something that hasnt been done, Other people have done it, to have 300 RWHP, guys with SRs have been putting that number down for quite some time now, and people have proved that u can put any motor into the 240 body with enough time, money, If your out to get power then dollers to HP SR,CA,KAT is where id put my money, if you wana be diffrent RB,Z32, 302, or whatever. And my finnal words, are that the RB is cool till you cant seem to pull away from that DAMNd slightly modded SR.
Its just my view of things (Any of this information could be incorrect) and alot of people wont agree, as well, im posting this as farmer is with out a computer for a unknown time. Thanks for your time and sorry for the headach the horrable grammer and spelling have caused.
I would agree with the above statement HOWEVER…you have neglected to remember that guys that build cars, for the most part, are never done.
A 300rwhp SR is nothing…easy to do.
A 400rwhp SR is tough and getting quite serious.
A 500rwhp SR is really hard and the car is now moving away from streetable. You need monster cams that create little to no vaccuum, monster injectors, a monster topmount and a completely built motor. This car would not be comfortable anymore.
Now let’s see how that looks for an RB (I assume 26DETT cause other than a 25DET…the others are wood)
A 300rwhp RB is quite a bit of work to get going in an s-chassis
A 400rwhp RB is the same car above with a few more pounds of boost
A 500rwhp RB is the same car above with upgraded turbos / or a single, some mildly sized injectors and more boost
What I’m trying to say now is the added investment for Farmer (as an example) to get to 500rwhp in not that much. When that happens, this silly SR vs. RB arguement goes away very very quickly.
its just hard to justify that the RB is going to cost 2-2.5X more than a comprable SR swap…
And you really have to have a purpose for the RB, or just be nutty for power, I mean after a year and a half with an average upgraded SR, I’m still happy with the power, its as much as the car feels like it should have, but more is always better
It really depends on what you want, if you want 250-350 WHP SR is a better bang for the buck/hassle
if you want 400+whp then RB26 might be a better choice
rb is a whole different beast from the rs motor, i let dan pye drive my car and he agrees its a whole different feel , mind you i have a stock rb26 with a boost controller and i cant keep tires on the car. im at around $8500 on the swap including two extra turbos, and im putting down about 340ish at the wheels, im sure the same with a sr is roughtly the same $$ mabye abit less, but from me to go from 340 to 400 is a matter of more boost at $0 how much for sr ? its all up to the individual and ulitmatly the pocket book
farmer
Don’t flame me but RB’s also sound awsome and run soooo smooth. SR’s and KA’s run pretty rough and SR’s especially sound horrible… The turbo sounds and shit don’t make up for the ricerish sound lol. Again, don’t flame me. I can’t afford to swap anything so this is just my opinion I’ve gathered from my experiences haha.
I’ve been in a CA and SR 240 and even though the CA may have less power, that would be my first choice. RB is just a better CA so it would be worthwhile to swap even a RB20 IMO.
No I have’nt done the swap (I have an RB in my Skyline now though) but I was considering it.
Anyway, if you want NO clearence issues what so ever look at getting the mounting kit from McKinney Motorsports along with there custom drive shaft. Your looking at roughly $1500.00 ish, last time I checked, and they also have a custom downpipe that allows you to keep the stock twins from the 26. If you phone them I’m sure that you could probabley get a package deal for all you’ll need to swap an RB26/25 in to a 240 from the mounting kit to wire service.
Check out there site at www.mckinneymotorsports.com
Well hope that helped out a little and good luck with you project.
Easy 8)
SR being Rough??? Maybe you have not been in a nicly running one.
they are Very smooth when running the way they were intended.
Now
I would also not recoment the RB if you drive you car a fair bit. It is really hard to get parts so maybe for a weekend driver it is cool. Eather way it is pretty awsome
The rb’s arent that hard to find parts for. Most parts like spark plugs, oil filter etc. you could use of a 300zx. Ohter then that parts like water pump aint that hard to find anymore since the swap is more common now. My rb25 swap cost me about $5000 complete with mounts, driveshaft, intercooler piping and exhaust. So compared to a SR swap the price is almost about the same.
Man i cant believe you guys are hating on the rb’s!
Its becoming just as popular to swap the rb in as much as the sr… IMO i can get a $1200 rb20 clip, comes with everything you need to swap in an 240, and for another 1500 it’ll put down over 300 to the wheels.
Dont get me wrong , ive driven a modded ca18 and a modded sr20, and yea they are badass, but out of the box vs sr and ca, no freaking contest.
And also , i daily drive my rb25 s1, no overheating issues, no oil consumption, no tranny probs.
Its a reliable motor just like every other modern nissan motor
obviusly a rb26 has more displacement, more potential in the longer run. a big hp goal like 800whp can be much easily attained with a rb26 without feeling any of the bad symtpoms you’d encounted on a sr20 such as spool, no torque etc.
Thanks everyone for the replies. This Sunday, if we get lucky, the 240 we’ll be checking out should be pretty good (ad said no rust, but its gotta be restored). Its an 89. If I recall correctly, it houses the KA24E under its bonnet. I will start off with getting used to the car in the first place, and learn how to drive stick. (I’ve only been on an auto Stanza before).
i’ve got a rb20det longblock -accesories, cams, exhuast manifold, loop and ecu and an auto transmission i could part with if you’re into a rb swap.
then you fix it bitch, you act so tough but you complain so much
dude when will you start making sense ?[/quote]
now if i was being a dick i would say something about your lack of mechanical skills…ie breaking off the bit extractor…hows that going for you anyways?[/quote]
actually the bit extractor he used motomaster i think) is very weak, i know several people who have snapped them trying to get a exhaust manifold stud out.
never buy them
then you fix it bitch, you act so tough but you complain so much
dude when will you start making sense ?[/quote]
now if i was being a dick i would say something about your lack of mechanical skills…ie breaking off the bit extractor…hows that going for you anyways?[/quote]
actually the bit extractor he used motomaster i think) is very weak, i know several people who have snapped them trying to get a exhaust manifold stud out.[/quote]
where is that comming from? what a month back? ok.
it’s not that hard to get a stud out, i do it 2-3 times a day on hydrolic cylinders. i Prefer the hammer in type with 4 tappered cutting edges, works great on hardened cap screws, studs and pins. But just like anything, if used improperly you will snap them. Case and point this motormaster “pos.”
Just because he snapepd it doesnt make it crap…we snapepd a $100 1/8" npt tap today at the shop, it wasnt crap the hole was to tight andthe old man doesnt clear chips out of the hole, tap snapped. It’s not crap, it was used improperly.