is anyone running HKS step 2 272/272 cams
how are they
agressive and lumpy
That isn’t obvious?
yeah that is pretty agressive for a daily driven street car around these parts.
besides, cams shoudl come after Z32 mafs, 550cc injectors and proper tuning on an SR anyways.
when you do that stuff, then talk cams
and no i dont think anyone here is running them.
im already a step ahead of you
guy i put these sick cams in my fc and it gave me like 30 whp…
sorta lumpy on idle tho…
GT
how did u ge tover 11400 posts?
how did u ge tover 11400 posts?[/quote]
Hax0red the SQL DB most likely :squintnono:
LOOK AT ME IM A POST WHORE LOLROFLCOPTEROMGWTFBBQ LOLZORS?!?!?!?!?!?!?
GT
I don’t agree with that… but then again it’s not my motor…
I don’t agree with that… but then again it’s not my motor…[/quote]
well i only say it because it seems to be the logical step for most people in the 240sx community.
stage 1 - getting the SR in and running with FMIC and full 3" exhuast
stage 2 - boost controller, upgraded injectors, Z32 Mafs, ECU / tuning
stage 3 - start on the internals
i would think that building the top end would come AFTER all the bolt ons have been added, especially since the SR can handle all the bolt ons without any internal modification
I don’t agree with that… but then again it’s not my motor…[/quote]
well i only say it because it seems to be the logical step for most people in the 240sx community.
stage 1 - getting the SR in and running with FMIC and full 3" exhuast
stage 2 - boost controller, upgraded injectors, Z32 Mafs, ECU / tuning
stage 3 - start on the internals
i would think that building the top end would come AFTER all the bolt ons have been added, especially since the SR can handle all the bolt ons without any internal modification[/quote]
Most people… the general concensus states that you start with a stock motor and drive on it for a bit…
There are a few who don’t work like that…
i love you bob
ps i agree with bobobobobbo
Aye.
You too!? SWEET!
Scott man, do it up. Tuning comes after all your mods are complete.
I wouldn’t consider cams “internal”
Cams are a great way to wake up an NA motor and also if properly selected will help spool and definitely make more power in a turbo car.
Cams will alter your power band (when and where) and can seriously help tailor your motor to what you want it to do.
They should not really be considered a “last stage” mod. As long as the intake and exhaust are taken care of, you should start cam selection IMHO.
It’s awfully hard to plot out a performance build with the cams as the last step. Changing your power band drastically as a final step will really leave you with a lot of head scratching and basically make you reasess your entire build to accomodate and totally retune.
But paying $2,000 for slightly higher lift and longer duration cams is definitely not worth it. If you don’t care to understand what cams are doing, take the HKS grind (readily available online … duration, lift, lobe sep … etc.) to a cam grinder with a set of stock cams. Have him regrind your stock cams to the HKS specs. Probably cost you $200.
Or if you are actually interested in tailoring your engine to your specs, sit down with a cam grinder and come up with a custom grind to suit. Cost is about the same.
And before anyone starts foaming at the mouth armed with freshly net-gleaned feces, there is nothing wrong with using reground cams. How do you think cams are made in the first place? They aren’t pulled from the earth’s core pre-forged. They are ground from blanks. As long as your cam core is good (cam grinder will be able to tell) it’s just as solid as a cam cut from a billet to begin with.
And yeah, 30hp from cams is not unheard of. It really depends on what else your setup involves. But peak power is only a small part of the gains you can see from cams. Your entire engine profile will change … you can make more power across the whole range.
That to me makes more sense earlier on in your project. Because if by stage III you’re going from 470 - 512 hp with cams, it really won’t matter unless you’re waging a dyno war. Then you could save yourself the $ on a cam swap, add 110 and crank up the boost. Or do what’s becoming so popular these days, and just run it in 3rd gear 
Changing your power band drastically as a final step will really leave you with a lot of head scratching and basically make you reasess your entire build to accomodate and totally retune.
Dammit man…must we agree on everything!??
Good post. 
mr200,
Not to be picky but rather to inform people that don’t know, like yourself.
It does make a difference whether a cam is ground or not, some engines won’t accept them even.
I am not trying to start a war here, but I think if you sit back and think about how a cam is machined you will understand what has to happen to regrind a cam, some people won’t care but saying they can copy an HKS cam grind for $200 is not true.
Yes, some aspects may be copyable with a re-grind, but not all cams and every profile, probably a very limited number in actuality. You get into having to ADD material to the lobes, if you can accept that then fine, but don’t forget you are paying someone to do it, at some point it will be cheaper to just buy the HKS cam…
Note I am not getting into specifics, merely informing the readers of SON that you cannot simply regrind your cam for $200 and it be the same as an HKS. There might be instances where you can sure, but you better have proof to back up every possible grind, with cost.
If I am misunderstanding what you are saying please re-read your post, that is how it reads.
Material does not need to be added to a cam going from a 250-ish duration to a 272-ish, especially when lift stays almost the same.
And as for an engine “not being able to use a regrind” then that magical engine could not use an aftermarket cam of any variety. The bearing surfaces are never ground. Your particular engine may be physically limited to lift it can run, but that kind of goes without saying.
I was suggesting people should look into alternatives, such as cam regrinds, to better spend their money.
There is little else to the profile that needs to be changed. I’m a bit confused as to what exactly you are referring to
“Yes, some aspects may be copyable with a re-grind, but not all cams and every profile, probably a very limited number in actuality”
Every possible grind? Again, please clarify.
The HKS 272 cam was the grind in question.
There is a physical limitation to how far the cam can be ground, yes. That is what is referred to as “the hardness”. That is the outer layer of material that is ground. When you want to go beyond that, material must be added.
This is from my post
“If you don’t care to understand what cams are doing, take the HKS grind (readily available online … duration, lift, lobe sep … etc.) to a cam grinder with a set of stock cams. Have him regrind your stock cams to the HKS specs. Probably cost you $200.”
No, it might not be reproduced EXACTLY … but the bottom line is it will be a better cam than your stocker, and very close to the HKS in performance, for a fraction of the cost.
Hence why I lead off with “If you don’t care to understand what cams are doing.”
The point I was hoping top make was that someone on SON might care to make more power and save money.
Proof, examples … go talk to Geoff at Colt Cams, my cam grinder.
Blindly spending the money on cams with no idea why you’re buying them seems like a completely retarded idea.
Nave, it’s hard not to consider a post that starts off “informing me, since I don’t know” as not geared towards starting a war.
If you want to talk about cams and regrinds, I’m happy to.
What I find amusing is smaller companies (like HKS) warning people not to use regrinds. Then you go to the top 3 cam builders sites and they suggest them.
And the $200 is a fairly standard price for regrinds. A cam grinder doesn’t charge by the hour.
I thought high performance cams would all hold the valves open longer. So how can you get away with longer lift/duration without adding material to the lobe?