Get in touch with me, I can get you the good steel ones for about $25 a set.
“Just saying?” It’s not like it’s an on off switch and suddenly you lose your brakes. If you start to experience excessive fade and you’ve upgraded your pads, backing plates, ducting, and are running Super Blue, then I’d CONSIDER RBF600.
But :tup: to assumptions without experience!
discount threw in a nice set with my last wheel purchase (even thought I didn’t ask or pay for them.
it’s pretty hard to fade evo brakes on the street, I only did it once and that was when I was bedding in my race brakes and got carried away and did it until my foot was on the floor with no brakes.
you have remember that at a track day you’re essentially braking from 120-50 as hard as you can every 60 seconds or so… that’s a lot to demand of a braking system in terms of heat. a situation like this just doesn’t happen on the street over and over again.
Emery, you wouldn’t know this since you don’t road race, autox, etc. but your brakes don’t just stop working all of a sudden without warning. It’s just like finding out you need a more track oriented pad because they’re starting to fade. If you keep running a car hard as they continue fading you’re asking for trouble and eventually your brakes won’t do much of anything, but there’s plenty of warning beforehand.
MPD makes another good point. ATE dot 4 doesn’t need changed anywhere near as often as a dot 5 fluid, so it usually makes sense to work on cooling rather than just throwing a fluid in that can handle higher temps once you’re already running dot 4.
lol mike
i definitely baked joes evo brakes, but he had stock fluid. ate has done me well at trackdays
Hey thanks for attacking me! And thanks for the imput!
-Em
input.
its just that, well, your statement didn’t make much sense.
To me it made perfect sense. Ive gone down a track (quarter mile) and didn’t realize how short the shut down road was. Needless to say I encountered brake fade and almost went right into the sand trap. I cant imagine it would be much different on a road course at the end of a long straight away? But then, I thought about how much more of a controlled environment it is. I guess In my racing application it is best to be safe before sorry.
-Em
Um, I’m not trying to be an ass, but how did you encounter brake fade on a drag pass in an Evo? Even a 160-0 stop in modern car with decent brakes (350z, Evo, STi) will not see brake fade on a single stop, hell most cars with horrible brakes (say a turbo civic with stock brakes) wont even see fade in less than 2 HARD (120+ - 0) stops. I think you might be confused.
Im not making things up. I would love to bring you for a ride someday and show you.
-Em
not to be rude, but it sounds like you don’t know what brake fade is
it’s overheating from use, like when you’re on them a lot. your brakes wouldn’t even heat up for a 1/4 pass
I would think they would heat up quite a bit trying to stop 3500 lbs from a 135 mph roll. Maybe not enough to boil the fluid right away, but my point is I would have rather had better pad on it when that happen. All my point is I would rather be safe then sorry. Ive been to the track way to many times and said “I should have done this”. Wouldn’t you rather be ahead of the game? Lets say you are improving vastly on the track, In fact now you have brake fade, Would you rather take it easy that day and say " I wish I had just spent the couple extra dollars". Or would you rather go out and just rip?
-Em
I give up.
if i were you i wouldn’t associate yourself with a shop, it will kill business.
Please explain to me what it is then. If I dont know somthing Im always up for learning.
wrong pads? shit needs bleeding? air or water in the fluid? worn brake discs? damaged line or bad master cyl? could be a lot, but stuff doesn’t “just” fade.