You guys missing the fact that he already has ksports?
He’s spending like a hundred bucks for a new shock and retaining theide height he wants. You guys are suggesting he spend ten times that just because one damper on his existing suspension, which has lasted several thousand miles already, has potentially failed?
I mean, they’re junk…people don’t buy ksports to get top of the line stuff, but there’s nothing dangerous about them, and they allow serious dumpage. Which is the only thing the OP, or anybody who isn’t trying to get everything out of a car, should care about. In my case I bought chinese coilovers over, say, a GC kit simply because a used set is all I could afford, and doesn’t come with any warranty. The stupid chinese coilovers I bought allowed me to pick any spring rate, type, or length, come with a two year warranty, and honestly…I’m probably going to hit something again this year :rofl
Yes, I’m trying to fit in more here, so I skip unnecessary details like the original post, etc and just respond as if I am the authority on the subject…
If you’re going to run the car off the bumpstops you need a set of coilovers/dampers designed to run that low. Running dampers in the bottom 15% of it’s travel constantly will overheat and kill them fi the valving is not meant for it, doesn’t matter if it’s a dumpy ksport or baller moton.
and the bracket that the shock threads into is say, 10" long.
for an overall max length of 16"
if you thread the shock body into the bracket, to make it, say 14" overall length for a 2" drop…the actual shock portion is still 6", and still moves throughout the same range, no?
numbers aside, yeah you got the gist of it. Some setups allow you to drop the damper body in a mount or spindle and lower the ride height while keeping the damper valve in the optimal range.
