Audi A4?

[66impalass]

get an 03.5+, and feel a lot more comfortable. The only issue I have is keeping tread on my rears.

and depending on the plans they have CPO or extended maintenance.

This is a FAQ - to answer the frequently asked questions by people who just bought an E46/M3 - or people who are considering buying one. In some cases - it will refer to other Stickies or FAQs.

QUESTION - I’m thinking of buying an M3 - what is the best year? And what should I look out for.

ANSWER - (DonE) That isn't easy to answer. They're ALL good! There weren't any real fatal flaws in the M3 from when it was introduced. A few years had some potential bearing problems that were addressed by a RECALL from BMW. See the "Bearing Recall" question for more info. In general - condition and maintenance are more important than the year of the M3. A low miles '01 that has been maintained by a fanatic, and not driven hard will be a better car than one that has high mies, was driven hard and put away wet.

On any used BMW - a "Pre-Purchase-Inspection" (PPI) is a GOOD THING to have done. A PPI is done by a BMW dealer. They will charge you for it - usually 1-2 hours of labor, but you'll find out what they find wrong with the car - and what they think may need attention shortly. IF the buyer refuses to allow a PPI be done (at your cost) - RUN AWAY.. it's not the car you want to buy.

QUESTION - I’m thinking of buying an M3 - but I can’t afford one still in warranty - what should I do?

ANSWER - (DonE) Lots of people will suggest you only buy an M3 that is still within warranty. That viewpoint seems rather odd since that would make their car unsaleable once it was out of warranty. There are aftermarket warranties available - usually only at time of purchase. Some of the best might be available from your lending institution if you're borrowing from a Credit Union. Others are usually available from a dealer - even used car dealers, but consider that there is usually a 100% markup on these (if it costs you $2,000, the dealer is pocketing $1,000) - so dickering on the price is very doable.

If you really can't afford a warranty - make certain you can afford some money for repairs. Even simple wear items like brakes and tires for the M3 are expensive. Replacing an M3 clutch will cost in the area of $2,000 at a dealer. Brakes can cost $1,000+ from a dealer, and a set of PS2's easily top $1,000. If these prices scare you - perhaps the M3 isn't the car for you.

QUESTION: I’ve heard about a “bearing recall” - what’s that all about and should I avoid those cars?

ANSWER - (DonE) The bearing recall was a response by BMW to some engine failures on early M3 engines. The range of cars is from late '01 cars to early '03 cars.

The cause of the failure was two-fold, bearings that were out of specification, and in some cases an oil-pump that was out of specification. When this first surfaced - BMW believed it was the fault of the owners - but it soon became obvious that it wasn't an owner caused problem. BMW reacted by issuing a recall - which involved replacing the bearings and oil pumps in the effected engines, AND extending the warranty on the engine to 6 years/100k miles for OIL LUBRICATED parts on these engines. They also specified a new oil for the M3 engines - Castrol TWS 10W-60 oil (more on this in the "what oil should I use" question.)

If the engine recall was done - there is no reason to avoid these cars. Failures after the recall was performed have been rare - and in some cases, the 100k/6-year warranty covered other failures of these engines. If the recall wasn't done - it can still be done, and besides the 100k/6 year warranty, the work will be covered by BMW's 2 year repair warranty.

QUESTION - The seller claims the car has a 100k BMW warranty - what’s the story?

ANSWER - (DonE) - There are several different things the seller could be referring to. One might be the 100k/6-year ENGINE warranty that covers oil lubricated parts. This is only applicable on 2001-2003 cars. They might also be referring to the BMW "CPO" warranty - see: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=153882 for information on the BMW CPO warranty, extended BMW warranty, extended BMW maintenance and aftermarket warranties.

QUESTION: - What’s the story with oil for the M3?

ANSWER - (DonE) - There is only ONE oil approved by BMW for the M3 - please see: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=156089 for everything you need to know!

QUESTION - What’s that “Sport” button do? Do I get more power?

ANSWER - (DonE) - Not much actually. It gives you NO MORE POWER. It won't make the car go faster. What it does is changes the response of the electronic throttle on the engine making it respond more to less pedal movement, but 100% is still 100% - and that's all the throttle available "sport" or no "sport". You may find the car more difficult to drive smoothly with the sport button pressed - but some people seem to like that - so it's up to you what you do with it.

QUESTION - How do I know if the car has original paint or not?

ANSWER - (bCaHnIaCnKa) - Very few shops are good enough to actually repaint a car correctly or match it very close to OEM so you can't tell if a part has been repainted. Spotting repaint can give a clue about the car possibly being in an accident or have been damaged that hasn't been reported to CARFAX.

Imperfections in the paint such as small bumps, holes, or "fish eyes" are a sign of a imperfect paint job where debris and dust were allowed to get into the paint booth. Furthermore, some re-paints may actually crack at certain parts that OEM paint would not unless there has been an impact. Other signs of repainted parts include orange peel as well as poor color matching against other body panels.

If you're at all in doubt - or inexperienced in looking for hidden body damage - it's worth taking the car to a good body shop and asking for them to inspect it. A BMW dealer doing a PPI may also include this as part of their report.

Questions suggested by RBC44 (Ben):
QUESTION - Is this a good price? (year, equipment, mods)

ANSWER - (DonE) - This question is asked all the time - and usually answered by people claiming either: it's WAY too much for the car; or that they bought a car for less. The real answer is - the car is only worth what someone will pay for it. To figure out if the car is within reason - go to sources like Kelly-Blue-Book (www.kbb.com), Edmunds (www.edmonds.com) and NADA (www.nada.com) - all of these offer price guides. Looking for completed auctions on Ebay can also give you an idea of what cars/years/miles/mods bring what prices.

The on-line guides don't consider much for "mods" - and most people will not pay a premium for mods since they may not be what the buyer is interested in, or may indicate to the buyer that the car was driven "enthusiastically" by someone. Only you can decide if the mods are what you want and what the value of them is to you.

QUESTION - What to look out for (recalls, sibs, etc.) when buying an M3?

ANSWER - (DonE) - Your first step here is to have a friend at a dealership - or have a PPI done (see above.) The dealer can pull up a car's warranty/recall repair information on their computer - even if they didn't sell the car. That is valuable information, and will give you some idea if the car was maintained - at least during the free maintenance period. You want to make sure the engine-bearing recall was done if the car falls under that group of VIN#'s.

Did we mention the PPI enough times to get you to have one done? Do you feel comfortable gambling that amount of money without one?

QUESTION - What are Inspection I and II?

ANSWER - (DonE) - "Inspection" services are exactly what the name describes. These are major services where many components on the car are "inspected" by the technician doing the job, looking for any problems or worn parts. The two services include different things - with "II" being the bigger (and more expensive) of the two. Depending on where you're located - Inspection services will range from $500 for an Inspection-I, to $1500 for an Inspection-II. BOTH inspections include doing a "valve adjustment" - this is not optional, it's not done by them listening to the engine - it has to be done and will require from 3-6 hours of labor time.

The offical "checklist" for I and II: http://www.m3forum.net/pdf/Service_C...S.pdf-link.pdf

QUESTION - What are the differences in model years?

ANSWER - (DonE) - http://m3.madrussian.net/modelinfo.shtml for everything you need to know..

QUESTION - Are there any DIY sources?

ANSWER - (DonE)

    * http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/forumdisplay.php?f=60
    * http://m3.madrussian.net/diy.shtml
    * http://e46m3performance.com

QUESTION - Why does the car beep and flash 37F when it gets cold?

ANSWER - (DonE)
BMW is warning you that there could be black ice on the road. It's a safety thing.

QUESTION - What are all these abreviations people use (ssk, bbk, cai, etc.)?

ANSWER - (FM3)

    * BBK = Big Brake Kit
    * CAI = Cold Air Intake
    * MAF = Mass-Airflow-Sensor
    * SSK = Short Shifter Kit

QUESTION - HELP! My check-engine-light just came on, what’s wrong?

ANSWER - (DonE) - The honest answer - we don't know what's wrong. Forum members can take potshot guesses at what they might think is wrong based on their experiences.. but without reading the fault codes - it's just guesses. What you should do is get the codes read. Most large chain autoparts places (AutoZone, PepBoys, etc) will loan you a code reader in the hopes when you find the problem you'll buy the parts to fix it from them. These code readers will read the OBD-II codes (emissions related P0001-P0999) and perhaps some of the BMW proprietary engine management codes (P1000-P1999). It will tell you what the standard OBD-II codes mean - the BMW specific ones you'll have to lookup on the web. You also could visit a dealer (figure $100+ to read the codes) or a good independent who specializes in BMWs.

You also can purchase your own code reader (BMW specific ones are Peake Research - around $200, and AutoEnginuity with the BMW extended module - around $500.) A few uses of the Peake vs visiting the dealer make it pay for itself.

Once you get the codes THEN come back, tell us what they are, and we'll be better able to take educated guesses as to why your CEL is on.

QUESTION - I’m thinking of buying an M3 - but what’s that noise in the exhaust system around 2,500-3,700 RPM?

ANSWER - (DonE) - That noise is normal. Listen to a Ferrari at full tilt - same sort of noise. It's called "the rasp" - and is caused by the design of the headers and first exhaust section on US cars. US cars have the catalytic converters as part of the exhaust headers.. the first exhaust section has different designs for the two legs of the exhaust. All of this creates the "rasp". It's normal - but can be eliminated if you want to spend some money. There are various vendors who sell front exhaust sections that help eliminate it.

QUESTION - Some cars I’m seeing for sale say “SMG” - What’s SMG mean? (Thanks to xASAPx for the question!)

ANSWER - (DonE) - SMG is BMW's version of a Formula-1 transmission, where shifting of a manual transmission is done under computer control and the clutch and engine speed matching is also controlled by the computer. SMG stands for "Sequential Manual Gearbox". For more info see: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/sequential-gearbox.htm, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sequential_manual_gearbox

[Blue_Eyed_Devil]

Audis are not perfect but then again what car is?
If reliability is at the top of your list then you should buy a much more simple car.

I love quattros but at the same time I would never recommend one to a poor person.

[cougarspeed]

I own a 01 A4 with a GT28R and a 04 A4 completely stock (DD) both 1.8t.

I have had no major problems or issues with either. Yes, I replaced one wheel bearing in the B5 no big deal.

The funny thing is I had a 01 Maxima that I purchased in Sept of this year and traded it in as a loss on my 04 A4. IMHO the maxima was a complete gas eating pos and I never felt comfortable in the car… I guess once you go quattro it’s hard to walk away from it. A M3 is nice, but how practical is that going to be in the Buffalo winters? I wish you luck on that if you decide to go that route.

My opinion on a A4 for a daily driver is a very good choice. The 04 comes in a 6 speed so you are going to get decent gas milage and a great car for the winter months…

my .02

Hmm well i am not going to rule them out to say the least. I have never driven a B6 so i will take a look and the prices are very nice on them. BTW i don’t live in Buffalo but i will be moving back there in less then two years so i do have to consider winter somewhat.

get an 03.5+, and feel a lot more comfortable. The only issue I have is keeping tread on my rears.

and depending on the plans they have CPO or extended maintenance.

I part of me wants to jum on an M3 because i know i will be happy with it since they are one of my favorite cars ever made. Well lets see how the stock market does in the next few months. Ths is important to my decision!

[juicedz4]

Id say if you can, and would, do your own maintenance buy the S4 for a daily driver. You can pick up a 01 for around 10k (at least thats what I was finding a few weeks ago). Lots of power potential, awd, 6speed, super comfortable etc. I have been thinking about replacing my 96 vr GTI with one next year maybee. We just picked up a 99 Avant for my wife, and sure it has a few issues, but it was cheap and I can do all my own work. Id personally rather buy a car cheap with a bunch of miles on it and put some money into it.

I too would love an M3, but around here, it doesnt seem like a great idea for a daily driver. :shrugs:

If your going to be away for a few years, buy the M3, bring it back here with you. If it sucks in the winter, sell it. You probably wouldnt loose your ass on it.

Thats my two pennies.

Dan

[cougarspeed]

I would do my own work on the car and i would be looking at 03 and newer with sub 30k miles. Thanks for the insight guys i will have to drive one and then see what i think. I probably won’t even buy a daily untill nov-dec anyhow and a ton can change before then. I would love to buy something now but i want to make sure i am getting out of the military without another deployment before i buy something only to let it sit and depreciate for a year.

[snowracer101]

I was looking at a b7 a4 for a while…
quattro 2.0 fsi turbo. They are really nice cars… more comfortable than the bmw opposition (328i) You can go CPO and get a nice interest rate and warranty. As for a DD they are awesome,but kinda numb feeling for a sports sedan.

[walter]

95% of the people on this board have owned high mileage Audis that started with questionable reliability and plans for mods. Their opinions on reliability are useless IMO and use specific incidences to make broadly sweeping generalities. The hate comes from people that just owned piss poor Audis, or no audi at all :shrug:

I would have zero quams about buying a CPO’d A4 or S4 (or RS4 :boner:)

They are far better cars than their equivalent BMW counterpart IMO. I can’t stand BMW interiors, and I can’t think of anything being a bigger poser-mobile than a non-M (or non-335) BMW. (Josh doesn’t count). That said, that is all subjective, drive both and buy whatever you like.

I would much rather have a CPO’d Audi than a use Bimmer. Audi’s CPO program is consistently rated as the best in the business. If you want useful feedback, try and Audi board. :shrug:

Bashing VAG is about as trendy as wearing girls jeans around here.

[walter]

Audis are not perfect but then again what car is?
If reliability is at the top of your list then you should buy a much more simple car.

I love quattros but at the same time I would never recommend one to a poor person.

far simpler way to say what I did :beer2:

if you want 200k cheap free miles, buy a Honda.

[Slopoke]

I loved my a4 never had a problem with it, for all 5000 miles but seriously a nice luxury car with AWD for under$20k get the Audi!!! Audi interior > BMW and MB!!! And if you ever do decide to mod it, it wont cost you insane prices for aftermarket!

[Joe]

Drew, do yourself a favor and check out a G8 GT. I bet you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

[cougarspeed]

95% of the people on this board have owned high mileage Audis that started with questionable reliability and plans for mods. Their opinions on reliability are useless IMO and use specific incidences to make broadly sweeping generalities. The hate comes from people that just owned piss poor Audis, or no audi at all :shrug:

I would have zero quams about buying a CPO’d A4 or S4 (or RS4 :boner:)

They are far better cars than their equivalent BMW counterpart IMO. I can’t stand BMW interiors, and I can’t think of anything being a bigger poser-mobile than a non-M (or non-335) BMW. (Josh doesn’t count). That said, that is all subjective, drive both and buy whatever you like.

I would much rather have a CPO’d Audi than a use Bimmer. Audi’s CPO program is consistently rated as the best in the business. If you want useful feedback, try and Audi board. :shrug:

Bashing VAG is about as trendy as wearing girls jeans around here.

I have been getting that about people not really comparing it to what i am looking at. It would be a stock daily driver well maybe some minor mods bt nothing crazy. I actually do not really care for the BMW interior much either. I have been reading audiforums for the last few hours but you get biased opinions there as well.

far simpler way to say what I did :beer2:

if you want 200k cheap free miles, buy a Honda.

I am not looking for econobox but i see no ligic in telling myself i should have to sacrafice reliability and quality because i am getting something nice. I have no issues paying more for maintenance but i don’t expect to buy someting that i have to fix all the time just because it isn’t “simple”.

[cougarspeed]

Drew, do yourself a favor and check out a G8 GT. I bet you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

I have but i am pretty against driving an auto. So that brings us to the GXP which i think is amazing. But that brings us to where if i were to dish that type of cash for a new car it would only be if i were getting it below sticker and at a ballin ass interest rate. Which brings us to Andrew Blakes fantasy land of dancing midgets and point and laugh economic systems.

[theblue]

all the audi A4s feel like heavy body rolling pigs compared to all the 3 series car’s I’ve driven… but that’s just me I guess.

[Joe]

If you end up having to wait til fall, the 09 GT is available with the M6 and will probably be out in ~september. And by then you will be able to get it below sticker and at a ballin ass interest rate. Pointing and laughing at poor people is optional, but you are encouraged to do hairy burnouts in their face.

[cougarspeed]

all the audi A4s feel like heavy body rolling pigs compared to all the 3 series car’s I’ve driven… but that’s just me I guess.

I am afraid of this which is why i need to drive one before i can look further. Today is the first time i have looed into them ever since i didn’t realize how cheap the resale on them is(yes i realize there is probably a reason for this). I see they have different packages available like ultrasport, etc etc and i am not sure if they come with different suspension packages, i will have to look into it.

[cougarspeed]

If you end up having to wait til fall, the 09 GT is available with the M6 and will probably be out in ~september. And by then you will be able to get it below sticker and at a ballin ass interest rate. Pointing and laughing at poor people is optional, but you are encouraged to do hairy burnouts in their face.

That is new news i was unaware that they are going to be available in M6. Although i still don’t think it will be too promising to hope for ballin ass interest rates when t first becomes available in M6. I probably will not know for sure if i am coming back to the sandbox or not until nov-dec so that is when i will probably get into a new car. Unless i get some info earlier. What is the price difference between G8GT and GXP?

[66impalass]

Audis really have no resale value, makes you wonder about there actual reliability.

[Joe]

Yeah, the only reason it wasnt available on the 08 GT is because Tremec is way behind demand since the 500 new models with RWD and V8’s use it.
GT MSRP is $31 and change. GXP doesn’t have pricing announced yet, but speculation is 35 to 40.
If you can find a hookup and get :snky: with GMS pricing, figure 26-27 for a GT or low 30’s for a GXP :eek:

[Slopoke]

Just drive them all and make up your own mind, Audi owners as well as Bimmer owners are going to be biased…

[cougarspeed]

Yeah, the only reason it wasnt available on the 08 GT is because Tremec is way behind demand since the 500 new models with RWD and V8’s use it.
GT MSRP is $31 and change. GXP doesn’t have pricing announced yet, but speculation is 35 to 40.
If you can find a hookup and get :snky: with GMS pricing, figure 26-27 for a GT or low 30’s for a GXP :eek:

Find me this hookup now, do it, do it. do it