Automatic vs. Manual

We aren’t talking about power… if I wanted the most power out of my setup, I would run the driveshaft off of the crank and eliminate all gears, and all slop. Or I would just put wheels directly on the crank and eliminate the u-joints and the differential.

And it isn’t a lot more power… that is completely dependant on who built your tranny, and for what purpose…stall, line pressure, clutches… and so on.

You can get Centerforce clutch A with your T5 and get a completely different time at the track than you would with clutch B. If you run the DR class… you don’t want 100% tq @ at the 3rd yellow… you want them to spin once or 2x then hook and go. If you have 500+ lbs of TQ and you just pop the clutch, you aren’t going anywhere. Sometimes you want some slip in your clutch… as you would in an auto…

it is completely dependent on the application at hand:

  1. A Noob driver looking to go fast in a straight line

Automatic hands down. Can anyone really debate this?

Don’t forget, you’re comparing fairly stock vehicles, to those with 500+ hp.

With that amount of power, any drivetrain loss is virtually unnoticable.

However, when you take a car like, mine for example.

You’re looking at stock numbers of 150hp/155tq.

And in a case like mine, sure, maybe the auto shifts faster, but the ability to bring the RPMs higher into the powerband, whereas a stock auto shifts at set points, unless overdrive is activated, where I believe it goes a bit higher into the powerband, but unlike a manual you can’t bring it right to the redline before shifting.

It was already mentioned that the auto in the Merc. is faster than the 6speed… driven by multiple drivers… in every case the auto was faster.

stay in the power longer = go faster

Pull the stick all the way past OD and you can “shift” manually… higher than if you just floored it in 3… but you wtill won’t be able to control when it shifts… the computer will only let it rev so high before it tells you no.

i never noticed any loss of power in my built gn tranny.

if u get the corerect converter, and have it built correctly, you eliminate all that power loss anyways.

shit i dont even have a shift kit in mine, and it still spins going into 3rd.

i do have a manual valve body tho.

its all in the builder.

auto will always shift faster and be more accurate

shhhh

let these guys shift down the track… they can’t shift as fast… but they make more power… so they will be faster.

eh… I’ve already said it. Look at who is asking the question… give them an answer… and let th tech articles answer the bickering.

Is everyone forgetting this? But also I want to feel cool and be able to rev my engine at people.

Don’t think about 500+ hp. I wont have that anytime soon. The most hp I would have is what a 5.0 can get with 2 grand worth of mods.

well do what about 85% of mustang ppl do and put flowmasters on it, then u can rev all u want.

I found a 90 LX 5.0 AUTOMATIC with only 73,000 miles for only 3900 or bo. Should i go with the auto or keep looking for a manual?

Even Neutral is labled in Autos… very easy to rev… from OD click once forward… you don’t even have to press the button on the shifter… rev like mad. If you want to do a burnout when you leave the light hold the gas down, and the click it back into OD… this will do a nice burnout across the intersection. If you want to leave lots of rubber… rev in neutral… put your left foot on the brake… click it all the way back into 1st… leave your left foot on the brake, and push in the gas with your right foot… hold it to the floor. The car will not move but the tires will smoke a lot. When you want to leave… leave your foot on the gas and just release the brake. if you want to leave marks a couple hundred feet long… you have to manipulate the brakes so that you go slow… but also the tires keep spinning. This will definetely impress your friends at school if you do it when everyone is leaving for spring break.

5.0 + Flowmasters = sweet

What I was getting at was reving in an automatic doesnt usually dound as good.

It’s up to you dood.

Autos do something that manuals can’t…

they keep accelertating, and they don’t stop…

No matter how fast you shift, you still are not accelerating…
but word, when we are talking about the lower HP cars, Manual > Auto due to less drivetrain loss.

Umm, what does the transmission have anything to do with the sound of a free rev in neutral?

N = N

Whether or not you are in a 5spd car or auto

Meh my auto does just fine from a roll…and thats with the stock convertor…

haha wait till I throw in the 4000.

I’ve been waiting for a year…

fag0r

unless u have a full out drag car (for consistency), manual is the only way imho

DSG. :drool:

Keep in mind, in a boosted kaa, an auto holds boost through shifts, which is beneficial…

The engine management I’ve got for my kaa, the MT guys have NLTS which basically allows you to keep the throttle open (foot on the gas) and push in the clutch at the same time without breaking shit… Best part of an AT is the boost at the line without the turbo damaging Anti-lag…