If that were true, all the stock daily drivers at the track would have uncontrollable wheel shake.
It used to happen on mostly non-vented, crappy quality rotors years ago. A similar effect can happen from pad deposits (even looks like a warp when cutting the rotor) because shitty pads are still out there.
like i said other variables ,wheel trq driver pads .all relative
it’s not the metal rotor that’s warped though, it’s people riding brakes, or getting the brakes real hot to the point where pad material ‘burns’ onto the rotor, which will give the rotor high spots, feels like pulsing/warped rotor and it is to some extent…until you get it cut or throw some real hard pads on there and cut em the JClark way
benny i know :retardclap i do this for a living ,you park cars stop repeting jclark isms as i get it :thumbup
actually I don’t even park the cars
rofl:rofl whatever dude:lol
def loled at this.
I’ve seen this cause by brakes that are hot getting splashed in puddles, slush and snow, etc. All dustshields in place?
yea, theyre on still.
you know, guys, now that im listening to every little sound my car makes, i may have a loose caliper or something. sometimes theres like a clunk when i touch the brakes at lower speeds and i can hear it over the exhaust. im gonna pull the wheels off this weekend and see how tight those bolts behind the calipers are
most likely a control arm causin the clunk there a common failure on them ,or a loose pad isnt all to uncommonin the saddle
Yea, im gonna need to start pushing some things and see whats loose there. prolly tap em with the rubber mallot to see if it rattles or somethin.
Hai. Just checking back in again. There is some truly great misinformation in this thread. 
Just take your car somewhere instead of trying these little tests. A trained tech will look at your car and have it diagnosed in under 5 minutes.
definitely… if it was a caliper you’d know it.
i just put rear brakes / rotors on my car last night? 
mine is perfect? :thumbup :hug
all the caliper slides were frozen as fuck though, so i had to pull em all grind em, and relube. also it’s imperative to pull the metal plates the pads slide in off the bracket that holds the caliper. Grind smooth with die grinder and cookie or get new ones. Then you must grind down the area behind those metal plates that they attach to / rest against. Otherwise the pad will be too tight and won’t be able to move properly and it will hang up. Possibly causing your warping. Make sure to use loob where the pad slides as well, but don’t get any on the pad face or rotor like a n00b. I also like to put a tiny bit of lube on the back of the pads where caliper touches to help prevent squeal.
inorite! classic stuff here
I have not noticed anyone asking of the hub-face runs true or not. this can easily be checked with a dial indicator and a magnetic base.
Most likely the car has bumped a curb, and the warped feel is disc run out, or most likely pad transfer.
I wont get into how hot something SOLID needs to get to change shape, but something cast is a whole other ballgame cast things will break but do not really exhibit ductility. Certain metals will move more than others at temp. your rotors may indeed may distort slightly but the effect is not permanent.
Generally glowing is i sign that a material has reached a point of internal energy that the material will reform inter metallic bonds. This does take time however. Generally at least 3 hours at a glowing temperature, some up to 20 hours to do their thing.
You will see brake rotor surfaces glow at the track, especially Subaru’s for some reason. The material strength is severely compromised at temperature, but any sort of permanent deformation is unlikely.
I put my rotors on backwards so the cooling vanes go the opposite way, I don’t have any issues making mine glow :rofl
i am now noticing a different feel to the brakes in S mode vs tip tronic mode.
uhh
:facepalm If you have to ask, take it somewhere.
Probably bad control arms as mentioned previously. They go bad ALL the time on our cars.